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DerStig wrote:
This is the same problem I have X/Z tower lift Y/Z good to smashed

Same as above: I'm working on a step by step video guide for this. I'll include referral free links to ferrite beads which can be purchased. Should be done this weekend. Lacking that if you read the first post it goes over what we believe the issue is when this happens. Until then printing smaller footprint items or using a raft should be fine?

One of the key things we found was that running the V3 probing 3 times helped. I'd normally attribute that to human observational error though I don't think it can hurt to calibrate 3 times.

@miaviator: I installed the ferrite beads:
The one near the effector is a PIA but needed to be done in the interest of testing! I then did a calibration cycle, checked my EPPROM offsets and they looked right. I did a test print and the first layer was right on, no thin spot. I am finishing this print now. Lots more testing needs to be done but this is the first time in several weeks of probing that I got a very even first layer. I'm cautiously optimistic!

Hmmm, makes my want to run down to radio shack. Did you try any other combinations? IE putting it around the entire effector wire bundle?

My 3mm wouldn't fit around the bundle. I thought radio shack was out of business.

We have one in town, and it says they have them in stock... but the largest would be about 6.75mm which is likely a hint small. 8mm would be a bit closer. They also have 3mm and 5mm.

https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search ... q=ferrite}

What size ferrite bead did you use or could you give a link to where you bought them?

3mm are the smallest I could find so that's what I got. A pack of 10 on Amazon.

Before everyone goes off and does this I'd wait a week until a few of us/me verify that it actually solves the problem. Cutting the heat shrink around the connector in order to insert the bead is a one-way change and you don't want to do that if their is no benefit.

morgandc wrote:Hmmm, makes my want to run down to radio shack. Did you try any other combinations? IE putting it around the entire effector wire bundle?

Nope. (If it works, don't overengineer it?) Keep in mind we were doing a free repair for someone we met on reddit not an official diagnosis or problem solving.

Our thought was that we wanted to isolate the most noise possible from just the signal wires. (I'm not an electrical engineer) so we wrapped both sides of the signal wires through and around a ferrite bead.

jmargush wrote:What size ferrite bead did you use or could you give a link to where you bought them?

I bought them on monoprice a few years ago (3/2014). They were for bitcoin miners.

http://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=1 ... 1&format=2

I just cut the beads out of those cables.... The were USB cable size?

mhackney wrote:3mm are the smallest I could find so that's what I got. A pack of 10 on Amazon.

Before everyone goes off and does this I'd wait a week until a few of us/me verify that it actually solves the problem. Cutting the heat shrink around the connector in order to insert the bead is a one-way change and you don't want to do that if their is no benefit.

It's not one way, just slide a new piece of heatshrink around the cable end?

You would have to disconnect all 8 wires from the push to fit connector. Sure it can be done but it would be a pain.

Well... I am going for the shotgun effect, hoping that I can put a larger one around the end bundle. The penalty would be the added weight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IO ... UTF8&psc=1

morgandc wrote:Well... I am going for the shotgun effect, hoping that I can put a larger one around the end bundle. The penalty would be the added weight.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IO ... UTF8&psc=1

Please do and let us know how it works out.

I would like to note that in our testing just adding a bead around the signalling wires leading to the rambo made a difference in probing. Adding the second bead at the hotend made it work.

I was thinking of trying one higher up the whole bundle, keep the weight off the hotend and hopefully still do the job.

mhackney wrote:3mm are the smallest I could find so that's what I got. A pack of 10 on Amazon.

Before everyone goes off and does this I'd wait a week until a few of us/me verify that it actually solves the problem. Cutting the heat shrink around the connector in order to insert the bead is a one-way change and you don't want to do that if their is no benefit.

I'll be waiting a week or so.... It look like it is fixed though... Very good work @miaviator

I just ordered some from Amazon that are solid bodied, 3/8" OD, with a 1/8" ID. I'll have to take the connector apart, but it will be worth it if it works. This would be for my Eris.

Add me to the list of new V3 owners that has the same auto-calibration issues I am reading about, extruder too close to the heated between X-Z. I submitted a ticket to see if support has any ideas. It is a huge disappointment.

Tim

Thanks Tim, this is an odd one. I have had mini calibrate perfectly some times but the vast majority I get the low spot between X and Z. The fact that it is so systematic for a number of us leads me to believe a solution will be found. I've not had a chance to do more probing today to test the ferrite beads but given that it did great the very first time I probed with them on and up to then not at all for well over 2 weeks, is encouraging. We'll gsort this one out, hang in there!

mhackney wrote:Thanks Tim, this is an odd one. I have had mini calibrate perfectly some times but the vast majority I get the low spot between X and Z. The fact that it is so systematic for a number of us leads me to believe a solution will be found. I've not had a chance to do more probing today to test the ferrite beads but given that it did great the very first time I probed with them on and up to then not at all for well over 2 weeks, is encouraging. We'll gsort this one out, hang in there!

I thought I would mention that I did try probing with the extruder fan unplugged to see if there might be local EMF there that might cause a problem with calibration. I also created an 220mm triangle as a test print to check the direct point to point calibration and results still show the perimeter is not extruding a nice even layer height. Appreciate everyone's efforts, I would have assumed all of this would have been solved before the V3 went into production.

Companies do their best at product testing but look what happened with the Galaxy S7 this year!

mhackney wrote:Companies do their best at product testing but look what happened with the Galaxy S7 this year!

I would just like to point out, the guys at SeeMeCNC have a lot more direct insight into their products than Samsung and there is very little change that a Rostock will explode. Good Point, Bad Comparison.

cloneit3d wrote:

mhackney wrote:Thanks Tim, this is an odd one. I have had mini calibrate perfectly some times but the vast majority I get the low spot between X and Z. The fact that it is so systematic for a number of us leads me to believe a solution will be found. I've not had a chance to do more probing today to test the ferrite beads but given that it did great the very first time I probed with them on and up to then not at all for well over 2 weeks, is encouraging. We'll gsort this one out, hang in there!

I thought I would mention that I did try probing with the extruder fan unplugged to see if there might be local EMF there that might cause a problem with calibration. I also created an 220mm triangle as a test print to check the direct point to point calibration and results still show the perimeter is not extruding a nice even layer height. Appreciate everyone's efforts, I would have assumed all of this would have been solved before the V3 went into production.

The key thing is this is not an issue on every V3 Rostock, I don't believe it is an issue on the majority of V3's. It is likely an issue which affects primarily DIY kit units and a minority of the ones sold. In the coming weeks we will see as SeeMeCNC is looking into this fix and likely following this thread to confirm if this works and what the proper solution is.

Keep in mind using an accelerometer probe is a fairly new concept (As far as I am aware) so there is bound to be some intermittent issues/glitches.

My washing machine (samsung) being recalled due to explosions? is not bound to happen. Ever. It's just odd.

cloneit3d wrote:

mhackney wrote:Thanks Tim, this is an odd one. I have had mini calibrate perfectly some times but the vast majority I get the low spot between X and Z. The fact that it is so systematic for a number of us leads me to believe a solution will be found. I've not had a chance to do more probing today to test the ferrite beads but given that it did great the very first time I probed with them on and up to then not at all for well over 2 weeks, is encouraging. We'll gsort this one out, hang in there!

I thought I would mention that I did try probing with the extruder fan unplugged to see if there might be local EMF there that might cause a problem with calibration. I also created an 220mm triangle as a test print to check the direct point to point calibration and results still show the perimeter is not extruding a nice even layer height. Appreciate everyone's efforts, I would have assumed all of this would have been solved before the V3 went into production.

I think part of it might just be down to building design as one of many factors. SeemeCNC seems to understand that EMI caused an issue with the probing (Thus the instructions to probe cold). Meaning that they are aware of the general problem class. I suspect that another portion is the difference in environment. Some buildings I've been in are relatively low EMI, while some rooms I'll see a 3V noise on a 1M shielded run (That's a PLC lab at the college which has a number of 3 phase motors and a pile of relays, many active at any given time in a smallish room that is intentionally EM opaque so it traps the flux). I suspect that Seeme tested it in a room that was relatively low EM noise, as they would potentially be sensitive to the potential of it to mess them up, given the machines they have on their shop floor and the EMI I have seen some machines such as those produce. Perhaps they can be convinced to add a ferrite bead or two to the BoM and instructions for the future, just to save the trouble.

Begginer level video instructions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxGT18rDKUM

I print things and advocate bitcoin for a living so my AV skills are not the best as it's outside my arena.

The main problem was bad design .... i2c was a bad bad bad choice. But, looks like the ferrites solved the issue. I have some laying around so I might give this a go, although I was happy with my calibration on the first go but I havnt printed out to all the edges yet...