Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Excuse my ignorance, but what is garolite? IS that the grippy black tape you put on steps to not slip.

Or am I way off, LOL.

Polygonhell wrote:What material would you recommend I use in my case? I need something that is close to Poly, tough and flexible, with out the warp.

I don't think you have a choice, there isn't anything with close to the material properties of Nylon except Nylon that's printable.
Steve Gerber uses Micky mouse ears on his nylon parts, and seems to get usable prints, he prints on Garolite at room temperature.

MickyMouse ears are single layer circles placed at the outside corners that are prone to warp.[/quote]

I love this Nylon 618, bit challenging but well worth it.

Flateric wrote:Excuse my ignorance, but what is garolite? IS that the grippy black tape you put on steps to not slip.

Or am I way off, LOL.

Some kind of synthetic board that Nylon 618 adheres really well to. You can get 12" X 12" board from Mcnaster Karr.

elqisqeyano wrote:

Flateric wrote:Excuse my ignorance, but what is garolite? IS that the grippy black tape you put on steps to not slip.

Or am I way off, LOL.

Some kind of synthetic board that Nylon 618 adheres really well to. You can get 12" X 12" board from Mcnaster Karr.

its the same stuff that pcb (circuit boards) are made of. There are different types of garolite. Its also useful for a lot of other projects. due to its strength to weight ratio.

A lot of people have found that garolite provides good adhesion to nylon, even taulman reps, recommend using it for printing.

elqisqeyano wrote: Where can I download those Mickey Mouse ears? My Garolite is in the mail. If I sent you a file could you put the ears on it for me? Or is it a simple process? I'm very new to this, but learning much as I go. Thanks in advance.

They aren't something you download, but something you add to the model in a CAD or modeling package.
It's simple enough you take the model and where it sits on the bed you add circles centered on the outside corners, and make them ~1 layer high.
The idea being that round shapes are less prone to warping because the shrinkage acts more evenly than at sharp corners and you have a lot more surface area in the areas prone to warping.

Polygonhell wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote: Where can I download those Mickey Mouse ears? My Garolite is in the mail. If I sent you a file could you put the ears on it for me? Or is it a simple process? I'm very new to this, but learning much as I go. Thanks in advance.

They aren't something you download, but something you add to the model in a CAD or modeling package.
It's simple enough you take the model and where it sits on the bed you add circles centered on the outside corners, and make them ~1 layer high.
The idea being that round shapes are less prone to warping because the shrinkage acts more evenly than at sharp corners and you have a lot more surface area in the areas prone to warping.

What about the problem with my hot end not reaching the good melt bonding temp that 618 prefers? With this problem I can't bother till I can get true 245 to 250 C. Where can I get one of those hot ends able to handle this kind of heat. 618 prefers 245 to 250 C to bond really well. If not at that temp, it starts to warp it's own layers and they strip right off.

Polygonhell wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote: Where can I download those Mickey Mouse ears? My Garolite is in the mail. If I sent you a file could you put the ears on it for me? Or is it a simple process? I'm very new to this, but learning much as I go. Thanks in advance.

They aren't something you download, but something you add to the model in a CAD or modeling package.
It's simple enough you take the model and where it sits on the bed you add circles centered on the outside corners, and make them ~1 layer high.
The idea being that round shapes are less prone to warping because the shrinkage acts more evenly than at sharp corners and you have a lot more surface area in the areas prone to warping.

Like File2Part and Inventor Fusion 2013?

Polygonhell wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote: Where can I download those Mickey Mouse ears? My Garolite is in the mail. If I sent you a file could you put the ears on it for me? Or is it a simple process? I'm very new to this, but learning much as I go. Thanks in advance.

They aren't something you download, but something you add to the model in a CAD or modeling package.
It's simple enough you take the model and where it sits on the bed you add circles centered on the outside corners, and make them ~1 layer high.
The idea being that round shapes are less prone to warping because the shrinkage acts more evenly than at sharp corners and you have a lot more surface area in the areas prone to warping.

I'm just not very good at this CAD stuff, no experience in it. I guess I can try and solve it on my own by practice. Which CAD program would you recommend? I use inventor fusion 2013

Anyone have any tips on smoothing the surface of an object? The bottom (on a thin nylon sheet) is absolutely smooth, but the outside of my object where the Nylon layers meet obviously is a little bumpy. Is a fine grit sand paper the best solution? Or some sort of quick chemical bath?

Fyi, I'm using a 1/16th inch thick sheet of a smooth Nylon, it's working quite well. I didn't get any luck with Blue tape.

USMCPelto wrote:Anyone have any tips on smoothing the surface of an object? The bottom (on a thin nylon sheet) is absolutely smooth, but the outside of my object where the Nylon layers meet obviously is a little bumpy. Is a fine grit sand paper the best solution? Or some sort of quick chemical bath?

Fyi, I'm using a 1/16th inch thick sheet of a smooth Nylon, it's working quite well. I didn't get any luck with Blue tape.

Thanks for the info. Did you get it from Home Depot? Where did you get the Nylon Sheet?

Another possible solution...

Printing on top of tightly stretched mesh.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PER-YARD-108-BL ... 5191214274

Worked well for me with PLA.

Amazon. I got 2 sheets for about 8-10 dollars a piece, and used second day shipping (needed it for a business).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MA ... UTF8&psc=1
Or this, they're pretty much the same.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z ... UTF8&psc=1

They look identical, so I really can't tell which one I'm using. I'm pretty sure they're the same thing. I cut it into a rough circle, clip the hell out of it to my heated Onyx, and bam. I have an issue with the very middle of it slightly popping up...more clips sort of helped, but it's still popping up ever so little. Doesn't affect my prints too much, as I'm printing small, centered objects.

Again though, does anyone have a tip to smooth a 618 Nylon print out?

USMCPelto wrote:Amazon. I got 2 sheets for about 8-10 dollars a piece, and used second day shipping (needed it for a business).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MA ... UTF8&psc=1
Or this, they're pretty much the same.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z ... UTF8&psc=1

They look identical, so I really can't tell which one I'm using. I'm pretty sure they're the same thing. I cut it into a rough circle, clip the hell out of it to my heated Onyx, and bam. I have an issue with the very middle of it slightly popping up...more clips sort of helped, but it's still popping up ever so little. Doesn't affect my prints too much, as I'm printing small, centered objects.

Again though, does anyone have a tip to smooth a 618 Nylon print out?

Pain in the butt ain't it? It's like rubber and strong as heck.

USMCPelto wrote:Amazon. I got 2 sheets for about 8-10 dollars a piece, and used second day shipping (needed it for a business).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MA ... UTF8&psc=1
Or this, they're pretty much the same.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z ... UTF8&psc=1

They look identical, so I really can't tell which one I'm using. I'm pretty sure they're the same thing. I cut it into a rough circle, clip the hell out of it to my heated Onyx, and bam. I have an issue with the very middle of it slightly popping up...more clips sort of helped, but it's still popping up ever so little. Doesn't affect my prints too much, as I'm printing small, centered objects.

Again though, does anyone have a tip to smooth a 618 Nylon print out?

I'm now looking for some ABS 400, supposed to be a Polycarbonate/ABS blend. Prints like ABS but not as brittle as ABS, More flexible.

USMCPelto wrote:Amazon. I got 2 sheets for about 8-10 dollars a piece, and used second day shipping (needed it for a business).
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MA ... UTF8&psc=1
Or this, they're pretty much the same.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0070Z ... UTF8&psc=1

They look identical, so I really can't tell which one I'm using. I'm pretty sure they're the same thing. I cut it into a rough circle, clip the hell out of it to my heated Onyx, and bam. I have an issue with the very middle of it slightly popping up...more clips sort of helped, but it's still popping up ever so little. Doesn't affect my prints too much, as I'm printing small, centered objects.

Again though, does anyone have a tip to smooth a 618 Nylon print out?

Here is the link to that ABS plus material. Same material used on the Stratasys Machines.

http://store.3dprintingsystems.com/1.75 ... Snow_White

My prints come right out. You can pull the Nylon sheet of and it's pretty flexible, so you can bend it. Not much warping to speak of. I used a razor knife to score it a few times in a circular shape, then used pliers to break the edges off. Biggest issue now is the Onyx not being level, thinking of using the scrap aluminum/metal plates and having the mechanic at our shop cut a circlular shape out. It's about an eighth or a quarter inch thick.

The aluminum is a good idea but it is difficult to maintain flatness. They are good at distributing the heat but IMHO they should
be covered with Borosilicate glass. Seemecnc sells the glass, I think it is $32. The glass is flat and makes the best print surface.
Some users spray the glass with hair spray to help parts stick to it, some users cover the glass with painters tape, etc.