A n00b builds a Rostock Max

[Eaglezsoar]

Your assembly of the top spool holder matches the pictures on the Seemecnc website, I think you assembled it the way it should be.
I think that your idea for the hot-end wires to run up through the top plate is a great one. It would not be easy to do on an assembled
printer but it's a darn good idea for a new build. It would be nice to use something like the plastic conduit painted to match the color
of the machine and run it from the top plate down to the base to handle ALL of the wires instead of fishing them through the uprights
but electrical noise becomes a factor and things like the stops, thermistor, etc would probably have to be shielded wire. There are
some challenges to running all the wires like that but I still think it is a good idea. It would be great to see some pictures where someone
has done this.

[cpunches]

Yes, if I had it to do over again on a new build I would do something exactly like you just described. I'd like to see some do it too. Maybe if I get really ambitious I might even try it myself

[JohnStack]

Reading back through this, I'm wondering about a couple of things: First, you mentioned connectors to the end stops and space to attach the connectors. I'm wondering if they shouldn't change to soldered ends with shrink tubing. Might save time and hassle. Also, I have a fan for the peek but even at 25%, it seems to keep the hot end temps struggling to get up to speed. That makes me wonder whether or not a small duct might be made to isolate the air flow to the peek and above - but I think the E3D and other hot end configs will make that problem go away.

[cpunches]

Yeah those were a bear to install. I'll have to go check Gene's revised manual to see if they are added earlier in the build, that might have helped too. It was a very, very tight fit trying to get the crimps on the wires attached to the switch once it was mounted. I had to bend the inner (closest to center of the printer) connector forward slightly on each one to get the wire attached.

I think a duct (like on a E3D hotend) would go a long way towards channeling the air to the peek. I've wondered if the air from the fan wasn't throwing my temp readings off initially contributing to my meltdown. I've really struggled with this hotend, my rebuild after the first one melted down isn't 100% - I should have just replaced the entire thing instead of just the PEEK and the ptfe. There was still some residue on the threads of that I couldn't get fully removed, as well as not knowing the exact measurements of the ptfe insulater that I think are what's giving me some issues right now. I can print "ok", but no where near where I know this printer can print at. I'll soon have a E3D, and a completely new stock hotend to play with - so I won't have any excuses left at that point. lol.

[aerouta]

How are you liking the top mount?

[cpunches]

I'm liking the top mount quite a bit actually. I had a couple of spools of filament that would not fit on the original side mount that I can use just fine now. Also, I gained some usable space on the worktable I have the printer standing on.

[ArthurDent]

Hey, that bench looks mighty familiar. Best $149 I've ever spent!

First things I printed on the Max was plugs for the wood-peg holes. Don't like constantly dropping little bits and screws into the drawers. I just screwed electrical box cover plates to the underside of the tabletop, and then drop in the printed plugs. I can pull them out if I need to use the wood pegs.

[cpunches]

Yes, I bought two of those benches at Harbor Freight! Hey, that's a great idea, I can't tell you how much crap I've had drop through into a drawer when I'm working on something.

[cpunches]

I finally got a chance to get my E3D hotend added to my printer. I ended up using a combination of the TrickLaser groovemount and the SeeMeCNC groove mount. I couldn't get either to work alone but ironically the combo of the two works great I also added the TrickLaser arms and anti-lash straps. Lastly I also routed all my wires up through the center hole of the top plate. I had to fish a couple back out of the flex to reconnect a wire, but I like how it's working so I think I'll stick with this.

I did experience a problem right off the bat; I didn't run my calibration print at a hot enough temp (from what I can guess anyway) and manage to plug the nozzle. I cleaned it out, was very easy since it's all metal, put it back together and was back in business. I have to say that the calibration print is quite possibly the best print I've ever done on this printer. It was just a 20mm cube, but the thing came out perfect. I'm not sure which contributed more, the new arms, or the new hotend - but I'm very optimistic about how well this printer is going to perform from this point forward