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why did you swap to the jhead?

Here is the hollow cube

why did you swap to the jhead?

cambo3d wrote:why did you swap to the jhead?

Sorry I missed your question I couldn't get retraction working properly with the stock head while printing with PLA.

would you mind posting your settings?

cambo3d wrote:would you mind posting your settings?

I am printing anywhere from 0.2 to 0.35mm layers on the 0.5mm nozzle jhead.

KISS Settings
Destring:
4.5/4.5/5
30
0.5
5

Fan: 30

1.75MM PLA printing about 185C (ultimachine silver). I find KISS slices heavy so I have my flow tweak set to 0.93.

Style:
using 0.55mm for extrustion and infill width.

Let me know if you want anything more specific.

thanks did you make any changes to firmware side of things?

cambo3d wrote:thanks did you make any changes to firmware side of things?

Well thats a loaded question... I've made a bunch of changes to what I believe was Polygonhells distro of repetier for rmax. A lot of the changes matched mhackneys config. It is in the pyramid challenge thread.

I have had the extreme pleasure of testing out this arm mod for the last day or so (had to wait for magnets to arrive) and I can't say anything except WOW!

This is the single biggest print quality improvement I have made to my printer.

The difference is night and day and I thought it was really good before trying this out.

You really have to see it in person to appreciate how much faster and more accurately you can print. There is absolutely zero slop and play in the carriage translations.

Xnaron has designed such simple and easily printable parts that simply drop directly into your machine and with a few adjustments, a quick recalibration of z height, you will improve your machines print quality immensly.

I also would like to thank Berry creator of Berry Bot for inspiring this community to try to implement this change on our machines, I tried and failed it's a tough cookie to crack.

So when Xnaron releases the files this weekend I encourage you to download and print them. I will upload some photos of the setup in a little bit but here is a youtube link to my first ever print with them. I was so excited by how much a difference the "Magnetic XnArms" make that I failed as a camera man to zoom out and show the arms better. I'll correct that in a bit with a follow up video as well.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WN9a8Pi1qSQ[/youtube]
I print my ABS (such as this) directly onto the glass with a tiny bit of hairspray. Unless you let your parts cool, getting them off can be challenging.

Bed temp is usually 90-105 for ABS.
Hotend temp for both prints shown was 237.
Hotend was e3d with bored and polished barrel, no fan at all or cooling fan for part. Dead air with head moving through it for only cooling.
Layer size for top video was .35 layer size for plus vase was .2mm.
1/4" Aluminium heat spreader with glass on top. Quick shot of Walmart "Laboratoire COSMEPRO" hairspray. White can, cheap stuff. contains "Vinyl Neodecanoate Copolymers" The thing that makes your prints stick.

can you share your source for the magnets we will need?

Thanks

Bill

These magnets http://www.ebay.com/itm/221224258595
These are the balls http://www.ebay.com/itm/380140413083?ss ... 1497.l2648

Wow. This looks great!

xnaron wrote:These magnets http://www.ebay.com/itm/321100166338?ss ... 1497.l2649 contact the seller and ask him to sell you 12 ie 2 more
These are the balls http://www.ebay.com/itm/380140413083?ss ... 1497.l2648

Are the files up yet for the Arms and arm ends? I ordered the Magnets, just waiting on you to give us the files. Please. Thanks in advance.

great job guys, another mod on my to do list, actually i think im gonna use this on my second build instead.

where are the files at for the 3d printed parts.

flateric what did you end up using for your magnetic mount idea?

cambo3d wrote:great job guys, another mod on my to do list, actually i think im gonna use this on my second build instead.

where are the files at for the 3d printed parts.

flateric what did you end up using for your magnetic mount idea?

I haven't released the files yet. I gave flateric a copy of them so he could have a sneak peak. I'm writing up a blog post for this along with some videos. I'm currently looking at sourcing some components such as carbon fiber tubes and I may put a kit together for these. I'll keep you guys posted.

thanks,
Brendin

xnaron wrote:

cambo3d wrote:great job guys, another mod on my to do list, actually i think im gonna use this on my second build instead.

where are the files at for the 3d printed parts.

flateric what did you end up using for your magnetic mount idea?

I haven't released the files yet. I gave flateric a copy of them so he could have a sneak peak. I'm writing up a blog post for this along with some videos. I'm currently looking at sourcing some components such as carbon fiber tubes and I may put a kit together for these. I'll keep you guys posted.

thanks,
Brendin

We are all anxiously awaiting for the files. I noticed you using Carbon fiber tubes from arrows. That would be a great alternative to printing the arms, then all we need are the files for the ends. Arrow carbon fibers tubes are incredibly strong, flexible and true.

xnaron wrote:

cambo3d wrote:great job guys, another mod on my to do list, actually i think im gonna use this on my second build instead.

where are the files at for the 3d printed parts.

flateric what did you end up using for your magnetic mount idea?

I haven't released the files yet. I gave flateric a copy of them so he could have a sneak peak. I'm writing up a blog post for this along with some videos. I'm currently looking at sourcing some components such as carbon fiber tubes and I may put a kit together for these. I'll keep you guys posted.

thanks,
Brendin

thanks brendin,

I was prototyping an aluminum mount for the magnet joints but kit would save me the trouble of making it. Let me know when these are available. A complete plug-n-play kit would be great.

Here's a few more pics of the setup.

I went with crossbow bolts for my arms. I used nylon cup'd inserts from the bulk nut and bolt bins from Home Depot. They offered exactly the same inner cup diameter and size as the prints and the out diameter also match the magnets perfectly. The magnets also match the crossbow bolt diameter perfectly.

To mount the whole works up to the arm itself I got some of the heat shrink tubing that has an adhesive inside it that liquifies when you are heat shrinking the tubes. This glued the nylon cup ontop of the magnet and the magnet to the shaft of the crossbow bolt. The entire assembly from center pivot point (the center of the ball that the boom end pivots on) to the other ends pivot point is 269mm exactly. The heat shrink tube also aligned and centered up everything nicely when I did the heating, so that was also a nice benefit.

I choose the nylon cups because I happened to notice them strickly by chance when I was there shopping today for some stainless. I don't know what they are originally intended for but I like the fact that this way I have perfect consistency throughout all my boom ends and removed my own possible "screwing the printed ones up" from the equation. A personal choice nothing more. I have used Xnaron's included printable boom ends and they also work perfectly as well.

Here are some pics of the various parts mounted up. Notes the crossbow bolt fins still intact! This is.....ummm. so that they move the air around and assist cooling, ya that's it, that's what they do! I just left them attached as a little joke really nothing more.

Some new observations I have about this mod is. You can literally crank your speed up to much higher levels than you might guess with absolutely no slop or effect on the quality of the print and surface finish. Provided of course you compensate with adjusted heat and extrusion adjustments for the higher speeds. But mechanically it's rock solid and an excellent upgrade.

Xnaron is polishing up the files and triple checking everything to be sure it is "just right" and they should be available this week or weekend I am told. But don't hesitate to get his kit he plans to offer or order up all the bits and print em yourself.

The quality in person is really stunning. I can't express how impressed you'll be with it.

Also the magnets he recommends are plenty strong enough and even with my dual hotend tests so far the carriage has no chance of coming loose even at speeds and jerks that no sane person could or ever would print at.

Flateric wrote:Here's a few more pics of the setup.

I went with crossbow bolts for my arms. I used nylon cup'd inserts from the bulk nut and bolt bins from Home Depot. They offered exactly the same inner cup diameter and size as the prints and the out diameter also match the magnets perfectly. The magnets also match the crossbow bolt diameter perfectly.

Do you have pictures of just the parts you used? I'm having trouble visualizing the assembly.

Flateric wrote: Some new observations I have about this mod is. You can literally crank your speed up to much higher levels than you might guess with absolutely no slop or effect on the quality of the print and surface finish. Provided of course you compensate with adjusted heat and extrusion adjustments for the higher speeds. But mechanically it's rock solid and an excellent upgrade.

Can you be more specific regarding speeds? Are we talking 200? 300? 400mm/s?

I look forward to the big reveal of the files!

Flateric wrote:Here's a few more pics of the setup.

I went with crossbow bolts for my arms. I used nylon cup'd inserts from the bulk nut and bolt bins from Home Depot. They offered exactly the same inner cup diameter and size as the prints and the out diameter also match the magnets perfectly. The magnets also match the crossbow bolt diameter perfectly.

To mount the whole works up to the arm itself I got some of the heat shrink tubing that has an adhesive inside it that liquifies when you are heat shrinking the tubes. This glued the nylon cup ontop of the magnet and the magnet to the shaft of the crossbow bolt. The entire assembly from center pivot point (the center of the ball that the boom end pivots on) to the other ends pivot point is 269mm exactly. The heat shrink tube also aligned and centered up everything nicely when I did the heating, so that was also a nice benefit.

I choose the nylon cups because I happened to notice them strickly by chance when I was there shopping today for some stainless. I don't know what they are originally intended for but I like the fact that this way I have perfect consistency throughout all my boom ends and removed my own possible "screwing the printed ones up" from the equation. A personal choice nothing more. I have used Xnaron's included printable boom ends and they also work perfectly as well.

Here are some pics of the various parts mounted up. Notes the crossbow bolt fins still intact! This is.....ummm. so that they move the air around and assist cooling, ya that's it, that's what they do! I just left them attached as a little joke really nothing more.

Some new observations I have about this mod is. You can literally crank your speed up to much higher levels than you might guess with absolutely no slop or effect on the quality of the print and surface finish. Provided of course you compensate with adjusted heat and extrusion adjustments for the higher speeds. But mechanically it's rock solid and an excellent upgrade.

Xnaron is polishing up the files and triple checking everything to be sure it is "just right" and they should be available this week or weekend I am told. But don't hesitate to get his kit he plans to offer or order up all the bits and print em yourself.

The quality in person is really stunning. I can't express how impressed you'll be with it.

Also the magnets he recommends are plenty strong enough and even with my dual hotend tests so far the carriage has no chance of coming loose even at speeds and jerks that no sane person could or ever would print at.

P1110326_sized.jpg

P1110329_sized.jpg

P1110331_sized.jpg

P1110333.JPG

Did you have to drill out a hole onto the Chrome steel balls? Or did you just JB Weld them onto the screw?

Flateric wrote:Here's a few more pics of the setup.

I went with crossbow bolts for my arms. I used nylon cup'd inserts from the bulk nut and bolt bins from Home Depot. They offered exactly the same inner cup diameter and size as the prints and the out diameter also match the magnets perfectly. The magnets also match the crossbow bolt diameter perfectly.

To mount the whole works up to the arm itself I got some of the heat shrink tubing that has an adhesive inside it that liquifies when you are heat shrinking the tubes. This glued the nylon cup ontop of the magnet and the magnet to the shaft of the crossbow bolt. The entire assembly from center pivot point (the center of the ball that the boom end pivots on) to the other ends pivot point is 269mm exactly. The heat shrink tube also aligned and centered up everything nicely when I did the heating, so that was also a nice benefit.

I choose the nylon cups because I happened to notice them strickly by chance when I was there shopping today for some stainless. I don't know what they are originally intended for but I like the fact that this way I have perfect consistency throughout all my boom ends and removed my own possible "screwing the printed ones up" from the equation. A personal choice nothing more. I have used Xnaron's included printable boom ends and they also work perfectly as well.

Here are some pics of the various parts mounted up. Notes the crossbow bolt fins still intact! This is.....ummm. so that they move the air around and assist cooling, ya that's it, that's what they do! I just left them attached as a little joke really nothing more.

Some new observations I have about this mod is. You can literally crank your speed up to much higher levels than you might guess with absolutely no slop or effect on the quality of the print and surface finish. Provided of course you compensate with adjusted heat and extrusion adjustments for the higher speeds. But mechanically it's rock solid and an excellent upgrade.

Xnaron is polishing up the files and triple checking everything to be sure it is "just right" and they should be available this week or weekend I am told. But don't hesitate to get his kit he plans to offer or order up all the bits and print em yourself.

The quality in person is really stunning. I can't express how impressed you'll be with it.

Also the magnets he recommends are plenty strong enough and even with my dual hotend tests so far the carriage has no chance of coming loose even at speeds and jerks that no sane person could or ever would print at.

P1110326_sized.jpg

P1110329_sized.jpg

P1110331_sized.jpg

P1110333.JPG

Check this out Flateric...

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 530#p11530

This with the stock arms, imagine with these magnetic arms?

I'm trying to gauge how many people would be interested in this kit so I can size the first batch appropriately. Let me know via PM if you want on the list.

thanks,
Brendin

elqisqeyano wrote:
Did you have to drill out a hole onto the Chrome steel balls? Or did you just JB Weld them onto the screw?

Flateric welded them. My kit will use jb weld. It works very well and has held up to many hours of printing. Ultimately I would like to be able to drill a hole in the balls and glue in a 3mm stud. Drilling chrome steel is very hard. I need better carbide bits.

Flateric wrote:Hotend was e3d with bored and polished barrel, no fan at all or cooling fan for part. Dead air with head moving through it for only cooling.

How did you bore and polish the barrel of your E3d hotend?

xnaron wrote:

elqisqeyano wrote:
Did you have to drill out a hole onto the Chrome steel balls? Or did you just JB Weld them onto the screw?

Flateric welded them. My kit will use jb weld. It works very well and has held up to many hours of printing. Ultimately I would like to be able to drill a hole in the balls and glue in a 3mm stud. Drilling chrome steel is very hard. I need better carbide bits.

It's what I thought. I saw some on Ebay with tapped holes in them already but they were 1/2 inch. I will try Flateric's method and Mig weld then 4 taps strong and fast.