TRAILtech's Rostock Build

[TRAILtech]

Yup thats my first cube!

I've been reading the link you sent me, but i can't figure out how to get my printer to only do a single layer?

I'm using slicer, I tried putting a 0 in the Infill but it didn't just print a single layer for my perimeter...

[kbob]

Set the infill to zero, as you said. Then set the number of perimeters to 1. (Print -> Layers and Perimeters ->Perimeters (minimum))

[Flateric]

Infill not touching the edges on all sides is generally related to one of your arms not moving perfectly smoothly and binding or rubbing slightly.

But an excellent first print IMO. Perhaps slightly too much plastic being extruded. Do polygonhell's extruder calibration proceedure.

[foshon]

I'll respectfully disagree with Flateric here, try setting your top infill setting under advanced to 250% and see if it gets better. I had my arse kicked by this for awhile even after installing the carbon arms.

[TRAILtech]

Alright gentlemen, so I disassembled my delta arms and belts / checked for smoothness on all connections (including the cheepskates on the rails). I also changed my top fill to 100%. I'm glade I did both, the cheepskates were not moving very smoothly.

The following are photos of the cube I printed with top infill set to 100%

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo13.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo14.jpg[/img]

The top layer looks pretty good, however the bridge looked awful.. So i dialed my extruder multiplier down to .85

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo11.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo12.jpg[/img]

You can see some separation between the infill and the Inner perimeter. I'm going to bring my multiplier back up to 0.95 .

Any ideas on reducing all the sag and spaghetti on the bridge portion of the cube? Do i need more fans?

[TRAILtech]

Also, just ordered my assembled TrickLazer arms... Hope that wasn't irrational. lol

[lordbinky]

If you use Slic3r there is advanced settings for bridges to increase the movement speed, which may help you.

Upgrading the arms? It's irrational not to! Although I'm going the dumbass way and doing it myself.

[foshon]

Try 200% for top layer infill, it will do a better job of filling the holes.

[Eaglezsoar]

If you use Slic3r there is advanced settings for bridges to increase the movement speed, which may help you.

Upgrading the arms? It's irrational not to! Although I'm going the dumbass way and doing it myself.

Not so dumbass, you can save a lot of money. Either the Xnarron type magnetic or the Traxas links, they are both inexpensive
compared to what is commercially available.

[lordbinky]

Yeah... hopefully the feeling of accomplishment adds a similar time back to my lifespan that the stress takes off when I'm sitting in a pile of parts

[TRAILtech]

weeelll damn.. My themistor came loose and I melted my f-ing hot end.

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo15.jpg[/img]

opinions on upgrades? J-Head, E3D ?

[Flateric]

Been there done that.

Sucks, but now is the time to get either a nice jhead or a e3d.

[JohnStack]

flateric ibid. E3D.

[Eaglezsoar]

Trailtech, I can imagine the sickening feeling in your stomach when you saw that.
I feel for you but let's try to learn from this and make sure it doesn't happen again.
This link is for the screw-in thermistor that fits a 3mm threaded hole. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Modular-Screw-o ... 4ac6f1ca4f

You will need to invest in a 3mm tap and possibly a 2.5mm drill bit, but once you screw that sucker in it's gonna stay in. IMO this is one of the best investments you could make.
Match this part with a j-head or E3D. The choice of hotend would be driven more by what you print, if it's PLA the J-head excells. For ABS the E3D excells.
I just purchased the E3D because of how it is made and you can bet it will have a threaded thermistor.

[TRAILtech]

It sure was a tragic sight. Thank you guys for the input, the E3D looks badass... Only problem is there's a 4 week lead time! No bueno. I ordered a J-Head, i'll probably order the E3D next.

Also, that screw in Thermistor looks excellent! Ordering one right now.

[TRAILtech]

Okay so I have a J head hotend now... The problem is that it doesn't have any fancy connector for my tube which routes the printing material, any suggestions?

[img]http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e308/mxpxer7/photo.jpg[/img]

[Eaglezsoar]

x2scrap.png (160.89 KiB) Viewed 17552 times

Bowden_Hot-End_mount_for_groovemount_J-heads_-_for_Rostock.zip

(447.14 KiB) Downloaded 576 times

Kossel_Groove_Mount_Hotend_Bowden_Adapter(1).zip

(188.64 KiB) Downloaded 521 times

If you can print either of these they will work to hold the J-Head and accept a Bowden fitting.
Or perhaps get a friend to print one for you.

[TRAILtech]

None of my friends are cool enough to have a printer I just ordered the mount from tricklazer. I'm excited to get printing again, since the melt down I've purchased the J-head, Threaded thermistor, and carbon fiber arms.

What I want to do next is figure out a way to get away from using belts. I want to use cable

[TRAILtech]

Okay i need some serious help!

I have installed the J head, and delta arms fully. I can't get any filament out of the nozzle.

It comes out in little beads, and then the printer head jams up. I have the original peek fan blowing on the barrel of the j head. I'm heading the head up to 198 C printing PLA plastic. The nozzle diameter is .4mm . I changed it in repetier so it knows, the extrusion multiplier is set at 1 for now.

Any suggestions? Higher temperature? lower extrusion rate?

[Polygonhell]

Given the picture I'll guess it's a JHead copy rather than an original from hotends.com?
Some of the Chinese copies are unusable because the nozzle orifice is too long, the first thing to try though is printing hotter, I'd go as high as 230 for PLA depending on the vendor and the color.

[TRAILtech]

Now your scaring me, I ordered it from Makergeeks.com ...

[Polygonhell]

Now your scaring me, I ordered it from Makergeeks.com ...

This is Brian's piece on copies http://jheadnozzle.blogspot.com/2012/12 ... lones.html
Several people on the reprap forums got unusable copies which is what prompted the piece.

[TRAILtech]

Bummer : (

I'm looking at the E3D hotend now, since hotends.com doesn't have any of the J-heads in stock. What will I need to mount the E3D? I have the kit for the J-head, do you think it'll work wiht the E3D?

[lordbinky]

It will, until you decide to print your own mount and good news E3D's are shipping quickly now. Yay.

[TRAILtech]

alrighty then its on its way!

Can someone pleaaase post Repetier settings for printing PLA with the E3D?

It feels like an eternity since I've actually printed anything successful