Assembly manual discussion thread!

[JohnStack]

T-Nuts - In the past, I have used two plastic washers to draw in the t-nuts but I like the idea of washers instead. It's easier.

Also, putting a little super glue on them helps. Good tip!

Wow, they really changed quite a bit in the R2! Tempting! I'll have to take a close look at it when I'm there next week!

[JohnStack]

In the new manual, page 58 - 59 - between when the RTV has set and when you solder, how about suggesting that a continuity check be done to ensure you're not soldering down (and cutting extra wire) a shorted thermistor.

Also, the LED - I think previously you mentioned the flat side pointing to the right. Might be a good idea to say it again.

[Lanty]

I looked over your WIP manual as well and found it to be very solid and easy to understand.
All the photos really help and while I didn’t click on and watch any of the youtube video links I think that is a great additional bit of info to include.

I personally would split the tools and materials into 2 chunks, and note anything necessary or strongly recommended, but that’s just me (put it at the top of the list in a box or with an asterisk so it gets the reader’s attention). I would also include the must have materials on your main webpage under the “Here's what you will need to complete the assembly:” section. I see you listed High temp Silicone, but sounds like it should be the “copper” type. I’ll place an order for these items on amazon when I order my printer so I’ll have everything I need when my printer arrives.

It sounds like you need:

• PermaTex Ultra Copper High Temp RTV
  Uninsulated crimp on connectors, sized for 22-18ga wire (Radio Shack P/N 640-3036 is an excellent choice).
  Thread locking glue. (Loctite, Permatex, etc).
  1/2” wide roll of Kapton tape
  Electrician's tape
  Zip ties
  And some optional RC car style connectors if you want quick disconnects (the photos and links you provided for these were great btw).

This is very nitpicky I know, but it might save people a trip or two to the store or worse a week waiting on an order from amazon. You kind of hype up the “this is a complete kit with every nut and bolt” at the top of the page (which it pretty much is), so listing the few materials needed at the bottom would be useful when ordering. I just hate when I get working on something and have to stop because I don’t have all the necessary supplies on hand : )

[JohnStack]

This is very nitpicky I know, but it might save people a trip or two to the store or worse a week waiting on an order from amazon. You kind of hype up the “this is a complete kit with every nut and bolt” at the top of the page (which it pretty much is), so listing the few materials needed at the bottom would be useful when ordering. I just hate when I get working on something and have to stop because I don’t have all the necessary supplies on hand : )

Hi Lanty, you might want to save the marketing feedback for Steve or John. I agree with you that you should only have to bring tools and RTV. It's silly to spend an hour getting a connector or three. It's not a great use of time. Even in a large metro like San Diego, it is hard to get all of the stuff you might need.

[geneb]

As far as I know, they're going to be including the crimp on connectors for the hot end when the shipment arrives...

I'm only the volunteer wonk that writes the manuals - I don't have any access to change things on the website.

g.

[dtgriscom]

Bad news: my Rostock Max v2 Black kit arrives today, and the v2 manual isn't complete

Mr. G: if there's anything you want me to look at about my kit, or pictures you wish you'd taken but can't because yours is (partially) completed, let me know and I'll do what I can. I can't go full-time at it, but expect to complete it in a week or two.


Thanks in advance for the manual,
Dan

[geneb]

The good news is that I finished the assembly write-up today - 188 pages and 399 photos. The visual BOM needs tweaking, but by and large it's all good.

I'm starting on the software end tomorrow.

Be advised that the RAMBo does NOT include firmware with the v2 - you'll need to upload that, but that's the first thing I'm going to cover after I cover the driver install.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

The good news is that I finished the assembly write-up today - 188 pages and 399 photos. The visual BOM needs tweaking, but by and large it's all good.

I'm starting on the software end tomorrow.

Be advised that the RAMBo does NOT include firmware with the v2 - you'll need to upload that, but that's the first thing I'm going to cover after I cover the driver install.

g.

Another good job, Gene.

[dtgriscom]

Well, I've started opening up the various bags and wrapped packages, and SeeMeCNC has rearranged the parts on the melamine sheets since sending you your kit. I'll take and post pictures of mine.

[dtgriscom]

Here are photos of my kit's melamine sheets. It looks like SMC rearranged and spread things out a bit, which makes sense since the cost of the material is pretty minimal.

On the fourth sheet, I wasn't able to separate one piece, as the laser hadn't even penetrated the bottom laminate sheet. The laser kerf is too narrow for my #11 blade to get through from the top, and I'd be completely winging it if I tried to cut from the bottom. I'll be asking SMC for a replacement.

Gene, feel free to use the photos in your manual if you find them useful.


Dan

Melamine Sheet 1

Melamine Sheet 1 Pieces

Melamine Sheet 2

Melamine Sheet 2 Pieces

Melamine Sheet 3

Melamine Sheet 3 Pieces

Melamine Sheet 4

Melamine Sheet 4 Pieces (one unseparated)

[dtgriscom]

I'm going through the inventory, comparing everything to SMC's packing lists and the Visual Bill of Materials. The Visual BOM starts with Hardware Pack 1's contents, and I have a few corrections:

1) It appears that the first X items all are in Hardware Pack 1, which makes it easier to find everything. You might want to make it explicit that those will be in HP1 (unless SMC tells you that they're liable to reorganize the packs).

2) The image for the "(9) 10-32 x 3/4" Knurled Nylon Thumb Screws" is wrong. Here's one I took:

(9) 10-32 x 3/4" Knurled Nylon Thumb Screws

3) The visual BOM lists ten (10) plastic bearing rollers, 4 for the RAMBo, 6 for the belt clamps. The rollers are actually in Hardware Pack 3, and there are twenty (20) of them. Strange thing: the description still says "4 for RAMBo mount and 6 for belt clamps"; perhaps you use two in each location.

4) There are two items in HP1 that aren't in the Visual BOM at all:

a) (10) 4-40 Blind T-nut (zinc plate); for belt clamping and RAMBo mounting

(10) 4-40 Blind T-nut (zinc plate); for belt clamping and RAMBo mounting

b) (1) 10-32 x 5/8" stainless steel socket head screw, to tap holes for 10-32 nylon thumb screws

(1) 10-32 x 5/8" stainless steel socket head screw, to tap holes for 10-32 nylon thumb screws

On to Hardware Pack 2!

[dtgriscom]

Everything in the Visual BOM up to the 608ZZ bearings was in Hardware Pack 1, except for the plastic bearing rollers. (I'll keep identifying the parts by hardware pack; if you don't care, then please ignore me.)

Hardware Pack 2 contained the (18) idle bearing spacers, the (12) carriage bearing spacers, the (12) eccentric bearing spacers, the 12 universal joints, and the 6 joint axle shafts. Everything looks right in the Visual BOM.


Hardware Pack 3 ho!

[geneb]

The bill of materials changed after I wrote it up - I'll be updating it as soon as the manual is finished. The 20 plastic spacers confuses me a bit though. There are two each used on the belt clamps and four used for the RAMBo mounting. There's another six used to mount the Onyx, but those should be included in the package the Onyx came in.

g.

[dtgriscom]

Am I being helpful, or have you already taken all the pictures and have a copy of the latest parts lists, and just haven't had time to put it all in place?

[dtgriscom]

Here's the ATX PSU I received in my kit: http://pcdirect.com/newv2vi4520p.html

The v2 manual asks for the six longest yellow wires and six longest black wires from the PSU. Assuming I don't leave a connector in the middle of one of these wires, and that I don't extend anything, then I find the following:

- The longest bundle of wires is 19" long, and has three yellow and five black wires (ending in a 2x4 connector that can split into 2x1 and 2x3 connectors)

- The next longest bundle is 17" long, and has two yellow and two black wires (ending in a 2x2 connector)

- Everything else is 13" long (wires and connectors galore)

If I really need six yellow wires (all going to the same RAMBo connector) then I'm stuck with 13" of wire. If five yellows will do, then I can get 17" of wire.

So, here are the questions: how long does the resulting cable have to be to reach from the PSU to the RAMBo? And, how marginal would it be to use only three yellows rather than four?

[geneb]

13" should be fine. You DO need all six.

I published a new version of the manual - hit 1.0 today! It covers complete assembly as well as calibration. I've also corrected the visual BOM so it matches the spreadsheet.

g.

[dtgriscom]

13" should be fine. You DO need all six.

Great information. In that case, I'd suggest changing "six longest yellow wires" and "six longest black wires" to "six yellow wires" and "six black wires"; the "longest" isn't necessary and can confuse the detail oriented (e.g. me). You might also explicitly say "wires and connectors you aren't using can be bundled up and ignored, although make sure not to short different colored wires together."

I published a new version of the manual - hit 1.0 today! It covers complete assembly as well as calibration. I've also corrected the visual BOM so it matches the spreadsheet.

Most excellent and wondrous. Thanks from all of us.


Dan

[dtgriscom]

Alternatively, if you still want to say "You want the most reach possible", then I'd suggest adding "... but XXX inches will be enough." Otherwise someone else will get just as confused as I did.


Thanks,
Dan

[dgriff]

Hi Gene,

Was reading the assembly manual while waiting for my V2 to arrive (hopefully Tuesday!). Just found a few things I wanted to ask about:

Page 64: "The tape will help make sure that all six wires make it without any problems." - should it be eight wires? 4 wire x 22ga and 2 sets of 2 x 26ga (the split pairs?)

Page 97: Photos don't look like the end stop contacts are bent in these (from p.75) - necessary?

Page 98: Same bottom tower wire routing done on p. 68-69?

Page 163: Heated bed thermistor position marked T1, but labelled T2 on photo?

I had a blast reading these instructions, looks like it will be a really fun build. Probably more fun than my friend's big Lego Millenium Falcon...

[geneb]

Alternatively, if you still want to say "You want the most reach possible", then I'd suggest adding "... but XXX inches will be enough." Otherwise someone else will get just as confused as I did.

"Start by locating six long yellow and black wires in the power supply. You want the most reach possible. 13” will be adequate. Clip the yellow & black wires you've chosen from the connectors they’re attached to."

g.

[geneb]

Hi Gene,
Page 64: "The tape will help make sure that all six wires make it without any problems." - should it be eight wires? 4 wire x 22ga and 2 sets of 2 x 26ga (the split pairs?)

Hey, counting is hard!

Page 97: Photos don't look like the end stop contacts are bent in these (from p.75) - necessary?

They are bent, it's just the camera angle that makes it look weird.

Page 98: Same bottom tower wire routing done on p. 68-69?

Yes.

Page 163: Heated bed thermistor position marked T1, but labelled T2 on photo?

D'oh!

I had a blast reading these instructions, looks like it will be a really fun build. Probably more fun than my friend's big Lego Millenium Falcon...

I'm sorry, that's simply not possible. The only possible thing that could be more fun than a Lego Millenium Falcon would be a Lego Star Destroyer.

Thanks for the comments guys!

g.

[barry99705]

I had a blast reading these instructions, looks like it will be a really fun build. Probably more fun than my friend's big Lego Millenium Falcon...

I'm sorry, that's simply not possible. The only possible thing that could be more fun than a Lego Millenium Falcon would be a Lego Star Destroyer.

Thanks for the comments guys!

g.

These guys are crazier than you...

http://fullscalefalcon.com/

[dtgriscom]

I'm confused about the #2-56 5/8" pan head screws and nuts. Specifically, how many of them do I use where?

The biggest confusion is on the LCD mounting brackets. These have four slots each for #2 nuts. But, the instructions call for only six nuts and screws. Even worse, on the picture where I can see the nuts (17-3) there are clearly only two of them. And, add six sets here and six more to the limit switches and you get twelve, but SMC supplies fourteen sets.

Perhaps I should install four nuts in each LCD mounting brackets (filling all the slots), use two per bracket to mount the LCD, and two per bracket to mount the trim panel? If so, then:

- On page 145, change the count of #2 nuts from 6 to 8, and the count of #2 screws from 6 to 4

- On page 148, add (4) #2 screws to the list

- On page 149, show the additional two locations for the #2 screws.


... right?
Dan

[dtgriscom]

A few more corrections/suggestions (page numbers from doc version 1.05):

- The list on page 31 includes the Base Plate Top, although it isn't used until page 48 (you might want to start a list there including the related parts for the Base Plate Top)

- The list on page 31 also includes the Onyx Heated Bed Pack. Most of this (all of this?) isn't used until page 50, and probably should be moved there.

- On page 37, you should say whether the vertical supports should be installed with the #6-32 flat head screws on the inside or the outside, and there are no such screws visible on figure 4-11 (I had to read through to the end to find out they were for the base covers, and should be on the inside).

- On page 42, item 12: these are actually 3/8" screws (also change p 43)

- On page 75, you list the end stop switches, #2 screws, and #2 nuts. These items also appear in the earlier list on page 70; you should probably remove them from page 70.

- On page 146, make it clear that you're talking about the left bracket when describing the SD card slot, and in figure 17-3

- On page 148, item 2, these are actually 3/8" screws


(boy, do I love nitpicking!
Dan)

[Eaglezsoar]

(boy, do I love nitpicking!
Dan)

And you never seem to run out of nits to pick!