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I was just talking to John and Steve at MRRF today about an upgrade kit. I think it is definitely on the list of things to do but they both seem to have a pretty full plate(not just with MRRF). No release date yet. I would have loved to pick one up but I will have to be patient... On the other hand I'm glad that our favorite printer company seems to be doing well!

Thinker wrote:I was just talking to John and Steve at MRRF today about an upgrade kit. I think it is definitely on the list of things to do but they both seem to have a pretty full plate(not just with MRRF). No release date yet. I would have loved to pick one up but I will have to be patient... On the other hand I'm glad that our favorite printer company seems to be doing well!

Thanks for the update!

If I did this upgrade I would likely start building a second machine with all the spare parts I would have since I have already upgraded to Tricklaser carbon arms, J-groove mount, and E3D hotend.

I would then proceed to call the V2 retrofit with all my upgrades the "Rostock Max Pro." The other machine would then become the "Rostock Max Bastard Dwarf" because I would probably cut down the build height to 9" or so to give the machine a bit more rigidity.

I might be the guinea pig for this one... I begged to buy one of the new wood sets this weekend and finally made John cave - sorry buddy Thanks for putting up with me.

Anyway, I'm not officially assigned the task, but I'm going to document what I need and what I don't as I do the swap this week, and maybe that will help everyone figure out a BOM for the kit.



Right off the bat, I know that I need 6-32 screws because the V1 frames use all countersunk screws and the V2 uses pan heads. (which means no more popping out the little rings of laminate!)

Jimustanguitar wrote:I might be the guinea pig for this one... I begged to buy one of the new wood sets this weekend and finally made John cave - sorry buddy Thanks for putting up with me.

Anyway, I'm not officially assigned the task, but I'm going to document what I need and what I don't as I do the swap this week, and maybe that will help everyone figure out a BOM for the kit.



Right off the bat, I know that I need 6-32 screws because the V1 frames use all countersunk screws and the V2 uses pan heads. (which means no more popping out the little rings of laminate!)

NO. NO. NO. What gives you the right to get the first kit? I'm glad you did so you can tell us all about the pitfalls and parts we may need for the conversion.
There are benefits of living so close to the source of the world's finest printer.

Jimustanguitar wrote:I might be the guinea pig for this one... I begged to buy one of the new wood sets this weekend and finally made John cave - sorry buddy Thanks for putting up with me.

Anyway, I'm not officially assigned the task, but I'm going to document what I need and what I don't as I do the swap this week, and maybe that will help everyone figure out a BOM for the kit.



Right off the bat, I know that I need 6-32 screws because the V1 frames use all countersunk screws and the V2 uses pan heads. (which means no more popping out the little rings of laminate!)

Lucky!

Jimustanguitar wrote:I might be the guinea pig for this one... I begged to buy one of the new wood sets this weekend and finally made John cave - sorry buddy Thanks for putting up with me.

Anyway, I'm not officially assigned the task, but I'm going to document what I need and what I don't as I do the swap this week, and maybe that will help everyone figure out a BOM for the kit.



Right off the bat, I know that I need 6-32 screws because the V1 frames use all countersunk screws and the V2 uses pan heads. (which means no more popping out the little rings of laminate!)

SWEEEEEET!!!!

I am looking forward to the BOM that you create from your conversion.
Great job in getting your hands on the first kit!

Jimustanguitar wrote:I might be the guinea pig for this one... I begged to buy one of the new wood sets this weekend and finally made John cave - sorry buddy Thanks for putting up with me.

Anyway, I'm not officially assigned the task, but I'm going to document what I need and what I don't as I do the swap this week, and maybe that will help everyone figure out a BOM for the kit.



Right off the bat, I know that I need 6-32 screws because the V1 frames use all countersunk screws and the V2 uses pan heads. (which means no more popping out the little rings of laminate!)

Do it with rivets for style!

Update?

626Pilot wrote:Update?

Possibly next week..or the week after...or the week after

brent wrote:

626Pilot wrote:Update?

Possibly next week..or the week after...or the week after

Not Funny!!

Rostock-D2 has been assembled for about a week now. I created the BOM and gave it to John and Steve for a second look.

Before:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/X99qIP0.png[/img]

After:
[img]http://i.imgur.com/7aGoTNG.png[/img]


The creation of a kit is in their hands now, and I'm busy making R2-D2 knobs and other practical things like that

Please hurry SeemeCNC and if possible make the new cheapskates available also for the kit if the user chooses to buy them.

Jimustanguitar wrote:Rostock-D2 has been assembled for about a week now. I created the BOM and gave it to John and Steve for a second look.

Can you do me a favor and print this, scaled to take up the whole print surface if necessary, at a layer height of 0.1mm? I just can't get that out of my Max.

I've designed alignment fixtures, Z probe holders, taken pages of careful notes using a depth gauge, studied inverse kinematics, tried to figure out tower rotations, et cetera, ad nauseam. It's taken hundreds of hours, and that is no hyperbole. Despite all this, I have never been able to get finer than 0.2mm layer height on any object that strays too close to the edge. If it isn't possible to do 0.1mm layers out to the edge, I'm going to put this printer in the garage to make space for a model from some other company. To be honest, I should have a long, long time ago. If I was billing someone else to do this same work, I'd have enough money by now to buy ten delta printers.

I've been fighting the same thing, and the new wood didn't help :\ it is worse at the perimeter points between the towers.

That was part of how I weaseled my way into the beta upgrade kit. I'm starting to suspect my arms. They seem tight (I can't twist or wiggle them) at certain points around the bed. I'm going to buy a set of the new clip style setups to see what happens before I jump to conclusions.

I will try to print it tonight with my tricklaser arms.

Jimustanguitar wrote:I've been fighting the same thing, and the new wood didn't help :\ it is worse at the perimeter points between the towers.

That was part of how I weaseled my way into the beta upgrade kit. I'm starting to suspect my arms. They seem tight (I can't twist or wiggle them) at certain points around the bed. I'm going to buy a set of the new clip style setups to see what happens before I jump to conclusions.

The new arms are definitely better. You still have to sand them to get rid of the seams, but it isn't the laborious process the old ones required. I look forward to learning your results.

626Pilot wrote:

Jimustanguitar wrote:Rostock-D2 has been assembled for about a week now. I created the BOM and gave it to John and Steve for a second look.

Can you do me a favor and print this, scaled to take up the whole print surface if necessary, at a layer height of 0.1mm? I just can't get that out of my Max.

I've designed alignment fixtures, Z probe holders, taken pages of careful notes using a depth gauge, studied inverse kinematics, tried to figure out tower rotations, et cetera, ad nauseam. It's taken hundreds of hours, and that is no hyperbole. Despite all this, I have never been able to get finer than 0.2mm layer height on any object that strays too close to the edge. If it isn't possible to do 0.1mm layers out to the edge, I'm going to put this printer in the garage to make space for a model from some other company. To be honest, I should have a long, long time ago. If I was billing someone else to do this same work, I'd have enough money by now to buy ten delta printers.

Sorry took me a day to do it, I had to tear down my CNC'd G0704 Z-Axis slide to fix some backlash.
But here is the print at 240mm outer ring which is the starter ring at 0.1mm then the machine did 3 passed the model is 0.3mm high. Really did not have a problem, I thin the outer between Y and X is just a little thinner but at 0.1mm laters I dont think that is a big deal its maybe maybe 0.005mm difference. The skipping between X and Z is then the ezstruder is getting started.
I know a little hard to see because its black but thats the PLA I have in the machine right now. If I print bigger the fans I have right now will hit the Binderclips as you can see the one I moved after the fan shroud hit it, I should make different ones.

Machine, Rostock Max V1
Ezstruder
SeeMeCNC 0.35mm hot end.
TrickLaser Arms.
12v stock PSU

I'm pretty happy with it. Let me know what you think.

That is pretty good. I also had TL arms, recently swapped for the newer SeeMe delta arms. I could never get the results you have with any arms. I wonder what makes your printer operate correctly, but not others.

I don't know I just took my time building it and then started the printing learning proccess.

Here is a picture of mine as you can see a basic v1 construction machine. It's running pretty good.

Jim,

How did you do the blue edge colors on your parts?

Hey Brent,

I stacked them with construction staples as spacers. Then I primed and painted the edges with a rattle can.
The paper acts as a paint mask and makes for a nice edge only finish after you peel it off.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/o3pewaB.png[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/lQCQbyw.png[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/k2S7Yhs.png[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/lFqcXl4.png[/img]

[img]https://i.imgur.com/rLCR72N.png[/img]

When you paint the edges, you really paint the edges!

Can anyone confirm if I can use only the parts for the top and get better tower alignment usind the base of v1, and if yes, plase make a kit