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Updated with the newest version just to be safe. Using a Mac for setting up and checking limits and the screens are completely different than what the manual shows... I was able to find the corresponding screens, but just a heads up.

As for the thermistor/wiring, pulled it apart and ran a meter on the wires with and without crimps and both came back with wires checking out ok...

Any suggestions on belt tension? The docs have you pull it tight when putting the belts on, but with the idlers on the towers there appears to be room for further adjustment.

cgbobio wrote:Updated with the newest version just to be safe. Using a Mac for setting up and checking limits and the screens are completely different than what the manual shows... I was able to find the corresponding screens, but just a heads up.

As for the thermistor/wiring, pulled it apart and ran a meter on the wires with and without crimps and both came back with wires checking out ok...

Any suggestions on belt tension? The docs have you pull it tight when putting the belts on, but with the idlers on the towers there appears to be room for further adjustment.

Make some simple little aluminum L brackets to adjust tension until you can print some replacements to look better.

On the Thermistor If you pull it off and using RTV silicone you can make a mix of 1/2 RTV and mix 1/2 corn starch the corn starch will make the RTV cure within about 30 minutes and ready to use, and does not break down the RTV properties. I just did it yesterday on my thermistor to reset it and worked great, I have used this in silicone molds before.

cgbobio wrote:Just finishing up the quick disconnects and wiring up the Rambo. Found a few more issues with the documentation where it explains the connections for the end stops... The image shows a green rectangle for the end stops to be plugged into, but on page 164, the same wires are plugged into the min connectors instead of the max connectors... Any ideas? I am assuming that we want the max input for the endstops not the min. Too late to take photos tonight so I will try and post some more tomorrow of the almost complete build.

It was caused by a serious medical condition called "Genebus Derpus". I'll get that fixed as soon as I can. Thanks for pointing that out!



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geneb wrote:

cgbobio wrote:Just finishing up the quick disconnects and wiring up the Rambo. Found a few more issues with the documentation where it explains the connections for the end stops... The image shows a green rectangle for the end stops to be plugged into, but on page 164, the same wires are plugged into the min connectors instead of the max connectors... Any ideas? I am assuming that we want the max input for the endstops not the min. Too late to take photos tonight so I will try and post some more tomorrow of the almost complete build.

It was caused by a serious medical condition called "Genebus Derpus". I'll get that fixed as soon as I can. Thanks for pointing that out!



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I understand! I was planning on going through the manual and submitting my notes as I took them during the build as to sections that had me scratching my head or steps that may have helped out... I think a note might be in order at the beginning of the section when you start pulling the wires through the towers. Perhaps before pulling the wires you could mention to cut the wire needed for the hotend should you wish to use quick releases and the wire you need for the heating the bed. I read the manual before I started, but still forgot I was going to need those two bits of wire until I got to those sections.

joecnc2006 wrote:Make some simple little aluminum L brackets to adjust tension until you can print some replacements to look better.

Has anyone thought to make a c-clamp like tensioner that you could slip under the idlers and on the top of the printer to pull the idlers up and tighten the screws? How much play, if any do you want in the belts?

cgbobio wrote:

joecnc2006 wrote:Make some simple little aluminum L brackets to adjust tension until you can print some replacements to look better.

Has anyone thought to make a c-clamp like tensioner that you could slip under the idlers and on the top of the printer to pull the idlers up and tighten the screws? How much play, if any do you want in the belts?

This is what I'm talking about and make some temp ones.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:87463

That might work, but on the V2 there is a cross member that the top screws down onto...

Make it so it pushed up from the bottom. Glue a aluminum plate on the bottom structure for the screw to push on and not dig into the wood. so you would only use two of the L brackets one on each side.

joecnc2006 wrote:Make it so it pushed up from the bottom. Glue a aluminum plate on the bottom structure for the screw to push on and not dig into the wood. so you would only use two of the L brackets one on each side.

Thanks Joe, will give it a shot!

New thermistor received, installed and calibrated! Here are some shots of my 1st print of the PEEK fan shroud using the setup in the documentation with ABS. Timelapse video to follow! (Its still uploading to Youtube) The final print images are as is, no clean up has been done post printing, only photos taken to show it off!

...And here is the video timelapse of the 1st build!
http://youtu.be/sj7YgxMoZFU

The end of my first day printing saw 2 prints of the PEEK fan, 1 print of the Layer fan and a replacement gear I modeled in 3D Studio Max for my weedeater. Still have some fine tuning to do, but the ABS I bought from Inventables.com has been doing great right out of the box. I upped the temp for the 2nd PEEK fan to 230 C from 225 C and saw a much better result. Bed was left at 90 C using a glue stick for adhesion with no problems. The first PEEK fan is on my hotend, but it needed some filing to get the fan in... Figure that with some hotend calibration that won't be an issue again. Re-ran the PID autotune after installing the PEEK fan and can also see a more stable performance in temperature levels.

So what to print today?

Printing a little toy figure in ABS for a friend at about 4" tall with supports for the first time. Honeycombed the infill and added supports with rafting to keep them stuck to the base.

Finished up with these accessories for a buddy of mine... ABS at 230C with honeycomb infill and cut in halves then will be glued together.

Neat looking figurines!

Been playing with settings on my V2 and various ways of slicing the models up for printing. Using 3dstudio max I cut this skull just above the nasal cavity and was able to print it with no supports by inverting the bottom half.

That is really cool! It had to take a lot of time to do but worth it in the end.
Great job!

Eaglezsoar wrote:That is really cool! It had to take a lot of time to do but worth it in the end.
Great job!

Thanks! Been trying to see what works best on my machine using ABS, so far these settings are doing well... I haven't played with the layer thickness yet and am still experimenting with the supports and infill. I think the printing in slices might be my best bet. Going to try and print something big soon... will post my results.

cgbobio wrote:Been playing with settings on my V2 and various ways of slicing the models up for printing. Using 3dstudio max I cut this skull just above the nasal cavity and was able to print it with no supports by inverting the bottom half.

Or you could just keep it as is and have a cool little container!

Wow, those are some really nice prints! Great job!

I'm still mounting my Rostock.