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So I can't do the PSU flipped. The power cable would come out RIGHT where the Z stepper is...

bot wrote:So I can't do the PSU flipped. The power cable would come out RIGHT where the Z stepper is...

That sucks, I didn't think of that lol. You'd have to find a way to flip the z stepper to the other side or mod the power supply so the cable comes out somewhere else heh... both ideas are kinda crazy lol

I just flipped the fan inside the PSU. It will blow fresh air from the back into the case. I'll make a duct out of duct tape (OMG I'm using it for its intended purpose!!) and cardboard that guides the air to the back side outlet fans I'm adding.

A smaller update today. After this post I have a special surprise from the bot archives.

As I said earlier, the PSU can't be flipped around. I suspect the guys at SeeMeCNC cut the hole in the bottom intending on mounting the PSU "correctly," but the clearance wasn't enough... or not? They should definitely mirror the Z axis, to allow the PSU flip.
I had to flip the fan around instead. This will draw air through the back (and through the smaller vents near the Rambo) and out the top into the underside case.
Here's the duct tape duct...
Cleaning up some wiring here. I decided to run all the fans directly from the PSU with these fancy IDE power fan adapter gizmos. You can see them marked "fan" if you look closely. This way the two chassis fans and the rambo fan will be plug and play. Easy to replace, no soldering, less power going through the Rambo (1 amp less).
I'm still trying to get my hands on some Skynet firmware. If anybody can hook me up, let me know.

And now for something completely different.

Circa 2013. None of these are my machines. They are my brother's and my father's. The last one is my mother's.

The big hole in the bottom is there to allow you to replace the power supply without tearing the base apart.

g.

Ahh well that is good to know. I still think the psu should be flipped!!

Hey, if you can get that sucker to balance on the spool holder, go for it!

g.

Haha! On the spool holder? Ridiculous. I wanna find a way to mount it on the hot end effector.

bot wrote:Haha! On the spool holder? Ridiculous. I wanna find a way to mount it on the hot end effector.

Why even have it on the machine... put it on the other side of the room and lets hook it up to a giant tesla coil. This can't go wrong.

Aurora900 wrote:

bot wrote:Haha! On the spool holder? Ridiculous. I wanna find a way to mount it on the hot end effector.

Why even have it on the machine... put it on the other side of the room and lets hook it up to a giant tesla coil. This can't go wrong.

Or be "green" and use a 12 volt deep cycle battery, charged from solar panels, to run the printer.

Well the joke was to leave the power supply as-is and invert the WHOLE machine, thus balancing the whole printer upside down on the spool holder.

The power supply isn't going to suffer extreme heat in the default orientation. The heated bed is air-gapped from the main structure and the melamine plate acts somewhat as an insulator. Most of the radiant heat from the Onyx is going up and away from the power supply. If I was going to make any changes at all to my printer, it would be to replace the solid side panels with a fan on one side and a grill on the other. The fan would be oriented to draw air in across the width of the machine.

g.

geneb wrote:Well the joke was to leave the power supply as-is and invert the WHOLE machine, thus balancing the whole printer upside down on the spool holder.

The power supply isn't going to suffer extreme heat in the default orientation. The heated bed is air-gapped from the main structure and the melamine plate acts somewhat as an insulator. Most of the radiant heat from the Onyx is going up and away from the power supply. If I was going to make any changes at all to my printer, it would be to replace the solid side panels with a fan on one side and a grill on the other. The fan would be oriented to draw air in across the width of the machine.

g.

I forgot there was a gap in there... that black snowflake thing is in between, I totally forgot. I would use 2 fans though, one intake and one exhaust.. either that or have an exhaust instead of an intake if you're only going to do one and a grill on the other side. The reason I say that is because otherwise not much air will make it across and out the grill with the PSU trying to suck it all out...

On my setup, I will have the 120mm .18A PSU fan bringing air in from the back of the case and the small slits on the rambo side, and then exhausting it out the top into the underside. I have separated the underside chamber into two at the top with the duct tape duct (actually, it's only a shroud. Do they make shroud tape?). The two 120mm .3A fans in place of the back panels will exhaust air from the PSU and from the variable-speed 80mm .4A fan blowing on the rambo (which is bringing in fresh air from the bottom vents).

This should be adequate, no? I figure the two 120mm exhaust fans will be good enough combined with the pressure forcing air out. I hope the duct is enough to guide the PSU air out and not into the Rambo side of the chamber.

Quit fiddling with it and start printing.

You will probably never see the insides again, and if you do end up opening it, it will be for a good reason and you will probably end up pulling half of the stuff out.

Oh don't worry I've made progress I just wanted to wait until I was basically done to post another big update. I want to get everything right the first time so that I never have to tear everything out (fingers crossed). Also I move slowly because I had brain surgery two months ago.

Where were we?
A lot of people complain about the difficulty of fishing the wires through the towers. The trick is to use string. Guide the string down the empty tube with gravity doing the work.
You have to be keep the tape application very sparse to keep the profile small. They will pull through very easily, though. You must do all the wires at once. So, for the end stops, stagger the pins a bit so they don't all bunch up and become too big.
I found a scrap piece of melamine that helped in seating the bearing covers. Even a thick towel didn't prevent the ridges from hurting like a M'F'ER.

If you look closely, you'll notice a couple bad bearings. (I have a habit of checking every single part)
One had a slightly collapsed cover, and the other was obviously contaminated with some kinda solvent/chemical. Both felt a little rough when spun. I might have still used them as the tensioner pulleys had I not had a couple spare 608ZZ laying around.
I have a really important tip in regards to cable tie management that I think Gene forgot to mention in the manual. I made a video to demonstrate:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dt9e6heWEXI[/youtube]

Moving along...
I originally had this cable tie to try and keep the clear plastic piece of the EZstruder flat. It has a slight curve. I since took it off. We'll see if it makes a difference.

Because the Kapton tape adds thickness, it has the potential to cause the glass bed to warp.
So I added three points, one under each tower, where there is two layers of tape applied. This should allow the bed to be clamped in a defined plane without forced warping. I later clamped the bed as close to the three points as possible.

A weird thing happened when I turned on the machine for the first time:

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jy4TkEO1cNA[/youtube]

So I uploaded a video detailing the entire first print process. I added some pictures below to summarize it if you have a short attention span.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cHQeIO73N30[/youtube]

I am very happy with the Rostock MAX V2 and the build process, to say the least. It was a fantastic time putting it together, and the first print was even better than I could have imagined.

Thanks SeeMeCNC and Gene!

The unknown future rolls toward us. I face it for the first time with a sense of hope, because if a machine can learn the value of human life ... maybe we can too.

http://vimeo.com/109427821

Nice!

I guess I was slightly luckier with my bad part than yours, cause if I had bad bearings I wouldn't have had any extras

And those skates were easily the worst part of the build.... Those damn plastic rings are little spawns of satan I swear. I literally had to stand on one of them to get it on.

You added more kapton tape in three locations around the Onyx bed to prevent doming of the build surface.

Why not just remove the tape from the center? It was placed there to prevent RTV silicone from oozing through the hole during thermistor installation. I removed the tape from the top of the Onyx bed once the silicone cured.

That's actually what I'm going to recommend be done. I don't think the vias are exposed any longer so the reason to have them covered is no longer relevant.

g.

geneb wrote:That's actually what I'm going to recommend be done. I don't think the vias are exposed any longer so the reason to have them covered is no longer relevant.

g.

So should I take off that tape in the center and re-calibrate my printer? I too left it on because the instructions never said to take it off

I thought the vias weren't exposed, but wasn't sure so I figured I'd cover them anyway. I tried peeling the tape off the center hole, and it began pulling the RTV away, so I put it back in place.

Even if I were to remove all the tape covering the vias and the center hole, I still want the plane to be defined by three points. Any more and it can be constrained in a warped plane. Thus, the three double-thick parts with tape.