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I finished up to page 43, Installing the Feet and then I remembered I haven't finished peeling off all the covering from the Melamine . . . the Five Stages of Masking Tape is for real . . . all I'm sayin . . .

On page 43, would it be clearer to indicate . . . .

The feet are installed on the bottom of the Base Bottom Plate. The design of the Base Bottom
Plate causes it to have asymmetric features – this means that if you were to bisect the plate down the
center, the left & right “halves” wouldn't be a mirror of one another. This means that we've got to make
sure that we install the feet on the bottom of the Base Bottom Plate. If we don't, they'll be facing “up” and won't
be much good for holding the machine off the table.

so....you installed the feet on the wrong side?

g.

I'm on page 53, Installing the Drive Gears on the Stepper Motors

Question #1 --> Is red thread lock okay or do I have to go to Home Depot and buy some blue?

Question #2 --> My vice-grips clamping of the spade lugs was not successful so I soldered the wires to the spade lugs - could this possibly cause any problems?


Thank you

Red Sand wrote:I'm on page 53, Installing the Drive Gears on the Stepper Motors

Question #1 --> Is red thread lock okay or do I have to go to Home Depot and buy some blue?

Question #2 --> My vice-grips clamping of the spade lugs was not successful so I soldered the wires to the spade lugs - could this possibly cause any problems?


Thank you

See this link about thread lockers - http://www.loctiteproducts.com/threadlockers.shtml

Basically Red threadlocker is designed for a more permanent application and blue is used for threads that can be taken apart more easily. Blue is advised for threads for the printers.
Your question about soldering the spade lugs - soldering is fine if done properly and cold joints are not formed. The spade lugs should also be insulated with heat shrink tubing at the "tail"
to prevent any chance of shorting to anything. Good luck with your build!

Thanks

I found a half-used tube of blue Lotite so that's good

I'll shrink wrap the spade lugs - thank you

Whew!

I'm stopping at page 68 . . . ready for step 5 on Thursday . . . dang I love building this thing!

Red Sand wrote:Whew!

I'm stopping at page 68 . . . ready for step 5 on Thursday . . . dang I love building this thing!

It is fun isn't it?
Wishing the best for you and your build.

. . . another detour but a great one: going to my son's wedding - will see y'all again Tuesday!

I'm back from the wedding - finished step #5 today

Woo hoo!

More questions:

#1 --> When tightening the six screws which hold the Onyx in place, would a little bit of thread lock be desired?

#2 --> At the top of page 85 "Pull enough of the 18ga wire so that the end coming out of the “top” comes within about 6” of the “bottom” of the tower. This will give you plenty of room for wiring up the hot end."

• I have no idea what this means - why not just indicate how long the wires should extend from one end?

#3 --> Page 90, Setting the Towers

• How much wire should extend beyond the base of each tower? I believe there is a video which mentions ~6" but is that for each set of wires coming from the bottom of each tower?

Thanks

Red Sand wrote:More questions:

#1 --> When tightening the six screws which hold the Onyx in place, would a little bit of thread lock be desired?

#2 --> At the top of page 85 "Pull enough of the 18ga wire so that the end coming out of the “top” comes within about 6” of the “bottom” of the tower. This will give you plenty of room for wiring up the hot end."

• I have no idea what this means - why not just indicate how long the wires should extend from one end?

#3 --> Page 90, Setting the Towers

• How much wire should extend beyond the base of each tower? I believe there is a video which mentions ~6" but is that for each set of wires coming from the bottom of each tower?

Thanks

1) Loctite should not be necessary for your onyx screws

2) As I understand it, this is meant to give you plenty of "slack" for your hotend wires. Essentially, grab the wires that are coming from the "top" of the tower, and have enough that you can let them dangle from the top of the tower, down the OUTSIDE length of the tower, stopping about 6 inches short of the "bottom" of said tower. I hope that helps clear up some misunderstanding.

3)The base of each tower has wires that will be run up to the front of your printer to the RAMBO. What this means is that you will want enough wire to easily work on the RAMBO and make connections to your board while it is still outside of your printer. If your wires are too short, you will have a bear of a time, if any chance at all, of getting your RAMBO properly hooked up when the time comes. A good tip is to run all of your wires up through the front panel where your LCD will be located, and make sure you have about 6 to 8 inches on all your wires. With this, you should have no problem wiring everything up and finishing your build. Just remember to tidy up your wires, or you might have more problems later.

I hope this has helped clear up some confusion!

lightninjay wrote: I hope this has helped clear up some confusion!

YES! THANK YOU!!!

After taking a while from this build, I'm back and I am ready to continue

I've had this machine in the garage for . . . way too long . . . I did purchase and receive the updated arms

When I stopped building it, the top was installed so, yes, I still have a long way to go

I'm only posting this for two reasons:

1, I would really enjoy completing this project and I am making the commitment to do so during the time I have between semesters (I teach at the local college)
2, I would really appreciate any encouragement

A while back, I began using my Eris printer and it's totally phenomenal - however, and as many can easily imagine, I would like to create larger 3D printed items and finishing this build will allow me to do this and the completed and fully functional Max V2 will give me a great feeling of accomplishment (although I am "very apprehensive" about figuring out how to get it running once everything is fully assembled - ha)

So, today, my goal is to clear off my work bench, gather my tools, get all the parts bins out, get a computer set up with the instructions for building it, and then figuring out what I need to do next.

This will be fun!

THANK YOU!!!

Did you grab the injection molded carriages as well?

Hurry up and finish the build so you don't have to make it a 2018 resolution.

g.

Did you grab the injection molded carriages as well?

No - I'll order those - anything else I should get with that order?

Thank you

The important bit was the carriages. The "new" injection molded ones require no adjustment and they're easy to install. They work great with the ball-cup arms.

g.

Okay - they are on order - I think I ordered the correct items

Thank you!

Okay . . . here I go again . . . resuming the process of completing my Rostock MAX™ v2 Desktop 3D Printer Kit

I have received permission to use the dining room table next week (because I have no air conditioning in the garage - thank you Ms. Sand)

The partially assembled printer is now on the dining room table

I'm in the process of finding all the parts (in the garage) and figuring out where I stopped building so I'll know where to resume

Here are the items I have for this build:

• 1 x 84399, Rostock MAX™ v2 Desktop 3D Printer Kit - White, purchased Feb 21, 2015
• 1 x 70861, Rostock MAX Ball-Cup Delta Arm Kit (new), purchased October 02, 2015
• 1 x 70849, Injection Molded Cheapskate Carriage Set, purchased December 18, 2017

I'm mostly posting this for motivation - any encouragement will be most appreciated

Thanks!

Another modification I recommend is the 29A power supply kit - it's a big improvement over the ATX supply.

Good luck!

g.

Sand, you're pretty darn close. Wiring a V2 relatively stock isn't that bad, and the new parts will only speed up putting the carriages, belts, arms, and hotend together. And so long as you make some progress every time you work on it, you'll eventually get there. I have a friend who had a V3 that sat with just the bed to solder, and the the firmware loading to do for over a year (He did move in the middle, and so earns more than a bit of slack). It didn't take long to get it running, and the first test print came out looking pretty slick.

In other words, there's not too much left to do, and the pay-off is nice.

geneb wrote:Another modification I recommend is the 29A power supply kit - it's a big improvement over the ATX supply.

Good luck!

g.

Thank you geneb & Xenocrates


Is this the power supply you recommend --> https://www.seemecnc.com/products/12-vo ... supply-kit

If so, I'll order it - anything else like spares or upgrades?

Thank you!

Yep, that's the beastie.

g.

geneb wrote:Yep, that's the beastie.

Thanks - it's on the way!

I want to give you some advice.
I have a max v2 ​​and I have spent a lot of time calibrating it.
and I would like you to know some small details that have helped me improve my max v2.
since you have the max v2 ​​almost unarmed.
You should compare the holes of the towers in the wood.
why say this (in my case I found a misalignment, and it is very easy to detect just put one on top of the other and if there is misalignment you will see it immediately since you will see the holes out of phase in the center)
This happens because the laser cutter that works with belts which works like any laser printer is not so exact, giving a difference between x and y. (and even worse, the upper part is cut inverted and a diferent sheet giving us more misalignment, in my case I inverted it to help a little to have my towers completely parallel.)
just check the 2 sheets and you will notice. Do not forget to take a photo and upload it so others know.

Another simple thing to check are the towers.
my rostock is from 2015 and with the idea of ​​putting together another rostock max order bed and new towers in 2017 (and these new towers when I try new skates that I designed I found that they have a small difference that when you try the skate and turn the tower 90 degrees changes the dimension remaining difenrent tension.
When I checked my towers in my max v2 ​​2015 I did not find that anomaly.

Hector.