BondTech QR Extruder Tip #1 - Calibration

[Eaglezsoar]

It is actually 2 pieces so there is no problem.

My bad.

[mhackney]

No worries. It does make it more difficult if you want to print each piece in a different color though!

[nitewatchman]

So it's verified that V2 has 50mm spacing?

I'll update Martin so he can make a V2 version on my mount. He is planning to post the STLs for these on the bondtech web site.

Meanwhile, a comment on orientation. It is much better to orient the mount the way I have it in my original STL. The "overhang" part of the base is 45° and prints beautifully in that orientation AND you'll get nice round, clean holes for the stepper clamp. In this orientation, the stepper clamp holes will be difficult to print cleanly.

Clamp printed standing up. Original BondTech received with extruder was printed flat, it has a layer split through one of the clamp bolt holes. I did not want the layers running parallel to the holes. Guess a split the other way is not much better but the section is heavier.

gary

This may seem to be a stupid question but it is not my first. Since the mount is printed in one piece, are we to cut it at the defined lines so that it can be bolted around the Bondtech QR?

There is a single STL but it consists of two parts, easy to draw this way. I just busted them apart with netfabb into two printable files.

gary

[nitewatchman]

Got around to finishing a mount and getting the BondTec Extruder mounted and I must say I am impressed.

Print smoothness is greatly improved and I guess I don't really understand why unless the non-geared extruder speeds are a lot less stable than I thought.

gary

[duvdev]

I got it today, will be installed and calibrated later the week.
I hope it will be as good as it looks.

[mhackney]

Great, keep us informed. I still continue to have nothing but praise for these QRs. Without a doubt, the Cyclops is the most difficult hot end I've come across due to its internal melt path. The QRs have been flawless pushing PLA through it.

[mhackney]

UPDATE: I've validated the phases with Martin. On the supplied geared stepper the phases are Red- Grey and Yellow - Green so the following information and connection chart should be correct. I've added the Kysan connections to the chart for completeness.


Did anyone purchase the QR with Bondtech's geared stepper? I'm trying to help out a few users with the wiring. The Bondtech stepper has a connector with these colors for left to right (when looking down the top but the order is the important part):

Red - Gray - Yellow - Green

The Kysan 1040229 geared steppers that many of us use are (with the connector in the same orientation):

Red - Green - Yellow - Blue

On the Kysan Red-Green are one phase Yellow Blue are the second phase.
I've emailed Martin for the specs for his motors and I'll document it here.

I believe the connection to the RAMBo wiring harness - which uses Red, Green, White and Black wires - is:

UPDATE: I've updated the chart to reflect duvdev's post below.

Code: Select all

RAMBo Pin        Kysan Stepper      QR Stepper        Stock wire
---------------------------------------------------------------------
1                      Red                     Gray                 Red
2                      Green                  Red                   Green
3                      Blue                    Green                Black
4                      Yellow                  Yellow               White

Can anyone with the Bondtech geared stepper and RAMBo with original wiring harness confirm this please.

thanks,
Michael

[duvdev]

Hi mhackney,

I just sent you an email.

I wired the QR motor like this:

Gray (QR) - red (stock wire )
Green (QR) - black (stock wire )
Yellow (QR)- white (stock wire )
Red (QR)- green (stock wire )

and it works.
The colors are from the QR motor to the stock wires in max v2 kit.

[mhackney]

Got the email. Ok, so the important thing is the two phases are identified correctly in my chart.

Phase 1 is Gray-Red
Phase 2 is Green-Yellow

for the Bondtech stepper.

The polarity difference can be easily fixed in firmware but to make it simple, I edited the chart to match the stock polarity.

[Windshadow]

Michael, I just ordered a QR from Sweden and I was about to print your mount for my RMaxV2 when I recalled the problems some folks have had with flex and rubberish soft filaments on the unmodified stock ezstruder. (I was reading the improve your ezstruder thread http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... der#p55678 and I planned to do those modifications when I found your posts on the QR and decided it was an in for a penny in for a pound case and ordered the QR. I expect that if I ever get to working a dual extruder setup I will find a use for the stock extruder)

anyway on that topic it just occurred to me that I am planning to build an enclosure for my Max and that the filament driver should be outside of the heated build chamber and so I guess some more thought is needed as to how I mount it. My thought was to have it positioned so that the exit alignment of the QR is set to feed the filament hole now used from the spool and where ei have my chunk of sponge filament cleaner but its a bit cramped up there between the larger spools and the hole it feeds through... I was wondering how others with an enclosed printers have mounted theirs.

[mhackney]

Following me around the web huh! Did you get much snow today - looks like we got about 10".

I would think my mount could be mounted upside down on top of the Rostock to keep it out of the chamber. You will need a longer Bowden tube. You could also use a 6" Ptfe tube on the input side to guide filament from the top mounted spool. Check it out and let me know. I can tweak the mount if needed m.

[mhackney]

Did you get much snow today - looks like we got about 10".

I would think my mount could be mounted upside down on top of the Rostock to keep it out of the chamber. You will need a longer Bowden tube. You could also use a 6" Ptfe tube on the input side to guide filament from the top mounted spool. Check it out and let me know. I can tweak the mount if needed.

[Windshadow]

OK I will,
i just got the new drawing of the as built dimensions from Martin as well we have about a foot here and its still snowing right now at 7PM quite a change from the last few weeks of heat wave.
Your friendly Maine stalker.

[delta22]

Received a couple BondTech QR 1.75mm filament drivers with Bowden attachment 2 days ago.
Very nicely built devices.
The quality of the 3D printing on these gives me something to aspire to achieving.

Thanks mhackney for the recommendation and info on these.

Confirming an earlier post, this wiring for QR to Rostock MAX v2 works perfectly:
Gray (QR) - red (stock wire )
Green (QR) - black (stock wire )
Yellow (QR)- white (stock wire )
Red (QR)- green (stock wire )

Started with 490 steps/mm and calibrated as suggested. Found that the first QR dialed in at 470 steps/mm.

Taking mods one step at at time, as I am new to 3D printing and this is my first machine.
So started by installing one QR to replace my EZstruder which was having intermittent filament slipping problems.
Driving filament through stock hot end for now.
Next mod will be installing the second QR and an E3D Cyclops.

Pictures of QR mounted to the top of my MAX, pulling filament from roll on a lazy Susan, and feeding into the top of heated enclosure. Second QR will mount along side it later.

[mhackney]

Nice looking setup and a great solution for heated chambers.

[Windshadow]

Thanks for sharing that Delta22. it goes right into my ideas file along with your posts on your enclosure
Well done

[Windshadow]

Sketching out using either the one I printed from rostock file with the angle Based on Hackney's with 50mm spacing or the Delta 22 version at the edge of the top plate seen above with I am guessing the standard bond tech mount. which I will print while I am deciding..

since I do plan an enclosure as a future build project either will work but if I use the the Angled mount i will have to remove the spool holder and print a new one But right now I am thinking I will go with the Delta22's lazy suzan.

given the summer humidity here on the Maine coast I am thinking of a dollar store plastic cake box to cover the spool and lazy suzan to keep what ever filament is mounted dry.... I have some .50BMG ammo cans that I think will work for the other opened filament storage with the silica gel packets.

[delta22]

Windshadow,
Yes, that is the BondTech standard mount on top of my RS MAX.

Had the same thought as you regarding a cake box. Picture shows 14" (max diameter) cake box containing 10" lazy Susan both picked up at Target. They fit together well. Haven't set it up for use yet as the winter air is relatively dry.

Considering options with the cake box as the MAX will soon be a dual filament machine.

[jreyes]

Hey mhackney

I have quick question I purchase bondtech and already install it on rostock max v2. On the configuration. Where do you go to look for config.g
Thanks

[Xenocrates]

If you have a Rambo, you don't have a config.g. Open up the EEPROM, and change the E.1 steps/mm parameter.

[jreyes]

If you have a Rambo, you don't have a config.g. Open up the EEPROM, and change the E.1 steps/mm parameter.

Ok I have the Rambo. I went to EEPROM change the the E.1 steps to 490 to Calibration so on. Send the command G1 E100 F1500. but doesn't feed. Seem like it feeding backwards nor feeding at all.

[Xenocrates]

Was it changed through mattercontrol or on the LCD? It seems like the LCD doesn't update properly. just to confirm, the previous entry there was ~95?

[jreyes]

Was it changed through mattercontrol or on the LCD? It seems like the LCD doesn't update properly. just to confirm, the previous entry there was ~95?

I use Repetier Host to make changes and entry was 90.

[Xenocrates]

Alright then. did you wire it according to the table in Mike's post? Are you certain you have good electrical contact on the plugs (Both to the rambo and to the stepper itself)? Have you confirmed that the change wrote properly?

If that fails, and all it's doing is running the opposite of the way it's supposed to, the easy thing is to go ahead and invert the stepper direction on E1.

[jreyes]

Let me check Wires and I get back to you Xenocrates. May reply late due to night time.

Thank you for your help and assist Xenocrates