Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Just started to build my max metal, So i'm up to putting in the Idler brackets in the Towers on the top side, one side fits the other side does not. All 3 towers are the same way. Ok so I got out the digital calipers lets do some check and see whats going on...

all 3 towers are not the same. They all look the same and I know they are close. I do not have a problem making them fit with a file but my question is that going to be a problem when I install the Trick Trucks? how about it working true and good? Do you think it's ok?

Thanks

Can not seem to get pictures uploaded...

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/483 ... .17.10.jpg

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/483 ... .17.23.jpg

I suggest you leave an email to Brian at Trick Laser, he is the creator of the Max Metal.

I can't be sure whether your caliper jaws are reaching all the way to the inside of the extrusions. In the 2nd picture, it looks like they aren't.

Also, a lot of digital calipers have terrible accuracy. I had Carrera Precision calipers and they were awful. I'd close the jaws, zero it, move the jaws apart, close them again, and it'd be 0.1-0.35 mm off. After some research, I discovered that the iGaging EZCal set was the one to have. I think it was about thirty dollars. I can open the jaws and slam them shut ten times in a row, and it'll still read 0.00. It also has auto-off, which - incredibly - many calipers don't.

Proper "Professional" Calipers are either Mitutoyo or Starrett. Brown & Sharp too. With TESA and Etalon being the Rolls Royce (Swiss Made) of Calipers. I've used & owned all of them in my profession. I currently own & use TESA and Mitutoyo.

To measure properly (inside) first make sure there is NO BURR hindering the measurement.

Then all you need is the tips of the jaws held parallel and perpendicular to the workpiece being measured.

Try measuring the same spot over and over. If you are getting different readings outside of a normal tolerance for measuring, then your calipers are buggered. If you are getting repeatable measurements, then the extrusions are off if they measure differently.

Rick

digital calipers are high end very good ones.

I made a video of the problem, might help explain it

(Sorry Video not that good cell phone video if this does not work I can break out the GoPro and set it up)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/483 ... 192418.mp4

(If the video does not play from that link save it then play it, have had problem with dropbox on some videos)

DarrenAnton wrote:Just started to build my max metal, So i'm up to putting in the Idler brackets in the Towers on the top side, one side fits the other side does not. All 3 towers are the same way. Ok so I got out the digital calipers lets do some check and see whats going on...

all 3 towers are not the same. They all look the same and I know they are close. I do not have a problem making them fit with a file but my question is that going to be a problem when I install the Trick Trucks? how about it working true and good? Do you think it's ok?

Thanks

Sorry you are having trouble.
Do you have the beveled side of idler brackets facing in?
As 626Pilot said, I also have seen the cheap calipers not repeat. It also looks like your not measuring in same position in both pictures.
I make the brackets a close fit, you may need to file the edges of bevel a small amount if extrusion varies on inside, that inside dimension is not critical, the truck wheels do not ride on that part.
Try putting different bracket in tighter extrusion.
Hope this helps.

Do you have the beveled side of idler brackets facing in?


OMG My bad, Did not even see that "ALL FIXED" back to building !!

Big Thanks on that!

DarrenAnton wrote:digital calipers are high end very good ones.

I made a video of the problem, might help explain it

(Sorry Video not that good cell phone video if this does not work I can break out the GoPro and set it up)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/483 ... 192418.mp4

(If the video does not play from that link save it then play it, have had problem with dropbox on some videos)

Bevels on brackets must face in.
In your video you did not flip it around every time when you tried other side.

For whoever has built one of these, are you running wire up the inside of all three towers, and if so, what are you doing with them aside from endstops?

I'm working on something a little crazy (flying triple extruders) and I decided to design a cable mast that bolts to the frame. It needs a taller extension and a cable guide for the extruder platform, but it works so far.

I've also noticed that the GT2 belts seem to slip a little out of the notch on the Trick Trucks over time, where they're held in place by friction. Anyone got a fix for that other than clamping it down with safety wire?

I had to add a thin plastic shim to my clamps from the get go. seems that belt thickness varies, which is odd considering its a "spec" belt. I actually used a plastic straw flattened.

Tom C

So I have the tricklaser max metal frame / skates / rods / effector and I'm going to roll with a smoothieboard. However, I have no way to mount the bed to the max metal frame. My current Rostock is not... printing... well, so I have no good means of creating a support system for the bed. I'm trying to put the tricklaser effector setup on my existing max to see if I can get it printing accurately, but I'm still waiting on the openbuild wheel kits I need to mount the skates. Anyone have ideas for a good workaround on this? I wish someone sold the Bed Assembly in a precision cut kit. Also I don't want to steal any parts from the Rostock Max itself.

On a side note, for those of you using the .9 degree steppers, which ones are you using?

626Pilot wrote:I've also noticed that the GT2 belts seem to slip a little out of the notch on the Trick Trucks over time, where they're held in place by friction. Anyone got a fix for that other than clamping it down with safety wire?

I've pushed version 2 of the belt clamp to the part repository in my signature. This is untested, but should work. I've added a small bead of material down the center to bite into the belt and prevent slippage.

Time for an upgrade... I've always had difficulty fine tuning belt tension.

I've designed and tested a simple tensioner that slips over the tops of the idler brackets and lets you use a pair of jack screws to fine tune the belt tension.

You will need to replace the existing idler screw with a 5mm x 35mm screw of your choice. You will also need a pair of 3mm nyloc nuts and 3mm x 16 mm screws of choice. You can use set screws as well.

I've shown pictures with use of my own idler hubs, but they should work just fine with the idler bearing setup that Brian provides.

Files are located in the part repository (Tensioner Cap.stl) in my signature.

Enjoy!

In this Picture you have some end stop wire holders clips that are in the metal frame where can we get them? I do not see them in the downloaded 3D parts file

Thanks!!

ccavanaugh wrote:Significant progress this weekend.

The electronics housing as designed needs some tweaks. I need to deepen the housing about a 1/4" to clear the LCD controller.

When assembling, reclaim the 4-40 t-nuts from the v1 skates or the plate the heated bed threads into and install those into the underside of the snowflake. You can then use 1/2" 4-40 screws to secure the heated bed.

20150412_091658.jpg

20150412_123640.jpg

20150412_090114.jpg

DarrenAnton wrote:In this Picture you have some end stop wire holders clips that are in the metal frame where can we get them? I do not see them in the downloaded 3D parts file

Thanks!!

ccavanaugh wrote:Significant progress this weekend.

The electronics housing as designed needs some tweaks. I need to deepen the housing about a 1/4" to clear the LCD controller.

When assembling, reclaim the 4-40 t-nuts from the v1 skates or the plate the heated bed threads into and install those into the underside of the snowflake. You can then use 1/2" 4-40 screws to secure the heated bed.

20150412_091658.jpg

20150412_123640.jpg

20150412_090114.jpg

A model from Thingverse... link is below.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166532

I love that!

ccavanaugh wrote:Time for an upgrade... I've always had difficulty fine tuning belt tension.

I've designed and tested a simple tensioner that slips over the tops of the idler brackets and lets you use a pair of jack screws to fine tune the belt tension.

You will need to replace the existing idler screw with a 5mm x 35mm screw of your choice. You will also need a pair of 3mm nyloc nuts and 3mm x 16 mm screws of choice. You can use set screws as well.

I've shown pictures with use of my own idler hubs, but they should work just fine with the idler bearing setup that Brian provides.

Files are located in the part repository (Tensioner Cap.stl) in my signature.

Enjoy!

Idler Tensioner.PNG

IMG_20151206_053439643.jpg

IMG_20151206_053349983.jpg

ccavanaugh wrote:

DarrenAnton wrote:In this Picture you have some end stop wire holders clips that are in the metal frame where can we get them? I do not see them in the downloaded 3D parts file

Thanks!!

ccavanaugh wrote:Significant progress this weekend.

The electronics housing as designed needs some tweaks. I need to deepen the housing about a 1/4" to clear the LCD controller.

When assembling, reclaim the 4-40 t-nuts from the v1 skates or the plate the heated bed threads into and install those into the underside of the snowflake. You can then use 1/2" 4-40 screws to secure the heated bed.

A model from Thingverse... link is below.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:166532

That part looks nothing like the part that you created to hold your end stops and have pictured in your image labled installed front.
Sorry to be a pain in the butt, that part is important and I have no cad skills at all.

So

That part looks nothing like the part that you created to hold your end stops and have pictured in your image labled installed front.
Sorry to be a pain in the butt, that part is important and I have no cad skills at all.

Sorry Eagle, I'm as a loss. I wasn't able to find a different picture labeled "installed front". The Thingverse part snaps into the extrusion grooves and holds the wire in place. At least that is what I thought the question was...

This is the picture you posted and the light blue part next to the red "arrow" is the part that supposedly not part of your STL files.

Yes, that was what Darren was after, the wire clips. Download it, but have not printed some yet

Big Thanks for that!

ccavanaugh wrote:

Sorry Eagle, I'm as a loss. I wasn't able to find a different picture labeled "installed front". The Thingverse part snaps into the extrusion grooves and holds the wire in place. At least that is what I thought the question was...

That file is in the Download its called "Top Vertex.STL"

Eaglezsoar wrote:This is the picture you posted and the light blue part next to the red "arrow" is the part that supposedly not part of your STL files.

Max Metal1.jpg

If in doubt what a file is because of my poorly named file , you can click on the STL file in Github and you should be able to see a 3D rendered image of the file. I know it works with Chrome, but I've not tested other browsers.

Thanks for everyone's help for identifying that part.