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Eaglezsoar wrote:Do you have a picture of those metal arms where they attach to the cheapskates? I would like to see how they
are attached at that end.

I used the two locknuts to center the arms and hold them in place

I didn't see if you had decided on a belt tensioning solution or not, I'm actually in the middle of my build and have been printing up some custom pieces for it, including a tensioning system.

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_02.jpg[/img]

basically you set the block above the idler bearing, and replace the idler bearing screw with one long enough to attach the bracket. Then you can just use the fingerwheel to pull the belt tight and then tighten down the locknut. If anyone is interested I can make the objs or stl files available.

kinggorilla wrote:I didn't see if you had decided on a belt tensioning solution or not, I'm actually in the middle of my build and have been printing up some custom pieces for it, including a tensioning system.

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_02.jpg[/img]

basically you set the block above the idler bearing, and replace the idler bearing screw with one long enough to attach the bracket. Then you can just use the fingerwheel to pull the belt tight and then tighten down the locknut. If anyone is interested I can make the objs or stl files available.

I like this far better then some others. I think it would much more difficult to over tighten the belts with this. Please do post it.

This would make a nice addition to Thingiverse and I think the STL files should be posted there also.

foshon wrote:

kinggorilla wrote:I didn't see if you had decided on a belt tensioning solution or not, I'm actually in the middle of my build and have been printing up some custom pieces for it, including a tensioning system.

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_01.jpg[/img]

[img]http://www.darcjedi.com/stuff/rostock/r ... ner_02.jpg[/img]

basically you set the block above the idler bearing, and replace the idler bearing screw with one long enough to attach the bracket. Then you can just use the fingerwheel to pull the belt tight and then tighten down the locknut. If anyone is interested I can make the objs or stl files available.

I like this far better then some others. I think it would much more difficult to over tighten the belts with this. Please do post it.

great idea for tensioning tool

Yes, this is one of the best tensioning tools I have seen so far. The one problem I foresee with this type and many others is that there is no
visual indication of the screw slot which makes it hard to know when or if you reach the top of the slot. Granted, most users will never need
to tighten to the top of the slot but I still believe that it is not good to take away the ability to see the slot. Perhaps a slot could be added to
this so that you can see the screw slot.

waiting on a few things to arrive but making on progress on the third build. (well actually 2nd build, the first build i had to dismantle and rebuild due to bad parts)
I added longer extrusions for some upgrades I had planned to test out.

teaser of some more things i've been tinkering with.

milled aluminum end effector / hot end platform prototype. Would anyone be interested? thoughts, comments, suggestions appreciated.
Planned on milling it out of 1/8" aluminum. Would you guys prefer to have holes in the tabs also?

Cambo3d, I'm wondering if you've gotten the tricklaser arms yet? I just ordered a set and got an email saying it will be a bit longer before they ship. I'm wondering how the play in the joints compares to the ebay ones you bought.

I did recieve mine already, there is some slight notable play in the the ball ends. Unlike my chinese made counterpart (there is no play) I didn't like the hardware solution they came up with. So i replaced it with my own.

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... 110#p10965

thought id show off my other build side by side,

tricklaser lightweight arms,
longer extrusions in black
hall effect endstop switches
testing custom turn buckle belt tensioner
testing mic6 with 24v silicone heat pad
testing all metal hotend
testing direct mounted extruder

Run! Run I say! They are self replicating and will soon decide you are taking up space that could be more usfully used for yet more of them. Having 2 is the last point before it will exponentially get out of hand and be your doom.

Last chance to save yourself mark my words!

haha.

actually i got another 3d printer coming not a rostock though..doom is near.

Looks Great!
How is that Mic-6 been working and are you still using the Onyx heater at 24V?
Just one more question, I promise! You were using an adjustable heat bed that you
designed, what are you using now on your heat beds?

Eaglezsoar wrote:Looks Great!
How is that Mic-6 been working and are you still using the Onyx heater at 24V?
Just one more question, I promise! You were using an adjustable heat bed that you
designed, what are you using now on your heat beds?

with the mic 6, i planned to mill out a pocket on my cnc machine in order to have the silicone heat pad set inside of it. (that's for the second build) first build still uses the stock onyx.

the adjustable bed idea was removed long ago, Once i got my rostock base flat and level, I didn't need it. It's just mounted with stand offs. I've been pretty satisfied with just the onyx and boro. stays flat. downside is that it doesn't heat evenly, hence the project im doing above. hopefully the mic6 will stay flat and the beefier 24v heat bed will heat it to sufficient temps.

McMaster Carr sells round, 12" silicon heating pads that are 500 and 1000 watts. The disadvantage to them is that
they are line powered (120VAC). They are around $80. Guaranteed they will get you up to temperature. Perhaps
not what everyone would want to use but I thought I would throw it out there. They are self adhesive too.

yeah, i saw those. i dont think 120vac is a disadvantage to me, the price is however and the electrical setup will have to be changed.

I'll see how the one i have works out and if i need to upgrade.

I got those temp controllers we picked out way back BTW, slick little units, only tested them since I have not blown my current thermistor ports. I actually think now with the heater cart and thermistor platinium cart blow ports may be a thing of the past unless you really fubar big time.

BTW I have been running a single power supply with my max since day one. It porvides 28v@15amps to my bed, heat time with the oynx is under 2minutes, 14v@3A to my hotend, heat time faster than the bed. And 14v@3A to the motors and such.

I have not had any issues of any kind (other than when I dead shorted things, but my fault). I just wish I could find more of these power supplies since I just had this one sitting around. It's nice and small too, but the fan is a tad loud however.

Flateric wrote:I got those temp controllers we picked out way back BTW, slick little units, only tested them since I have not blown my current thermistor ports. I actually think now with the heater cart and thermistor platinium cart blow ports may be a thing of the past unless you really fubar big time.

BTW I have been running a single power supply with my max since day one. It porvides 28v@15amps to my bed, heat time with the oynx is under 2minutes, 14v@3A to my hotend, heat time faster than the bed. And 14v@3A to the motors and such.

I have not had any issues of any kind (other than when I dead shorted things, but my fault). I just wish I could find more of these power supplies since I just had this one sitting around. It's nice and small too, but the fan is a tad loud however.

Have you actually used the Platinum Pt100 cartridges? It was my understanding that they require some sort of amplifier before they can be connected to the Rambo type cards.
If not and you have one working with the Rambo and Repetier, I would be interested in the custom temperature table that you used. I apologize for stealing your thread Cambo3D.

No I have not used em yet. Although I was assured by the guy selling them that they work with the board. But then again, you never know with ebay guys. I was hoping to use one on each hotend and one on the bed in my dual setup I am planning to get to today.

So many project so very little time.

I need to start printing out some more of me!

Then that would really be the doom of us all, LOL.

I think you'll find that these will not work directly. They need the interface to the Rambo.

i thought flateric was using a standalone pid controller, it came with its own thermistor/thermocouple?

Cambo3D, when you mounted the new arms, I noticed that you used nylon lock nuts that were upside down. The nylon screwed into the screw first instead of the base of the nut.
Try as I will, I cannot get a nylon lock nut to screw onto a screw backwards such as you did. Could you tell me how to do that?

Carl

Eaglezsoar wrote:Cambo3D, when you mounted the new arms, I noticed that you used nylon lock nuts that were upside down. The nylon screwed into the screw first instead of the base of the nut.
Try as I will, I cannot get a nylon lock nut to screw onto a screw backwards such as you did. Could you tell me how to do that?

Carl

you need to thread it first. I did this by screwing the bolt into the nut the usual way until it came out the other end. this starts the thread in the nylon.

then unscrew it and put the nut on backwards.