E3D V4 All metal hotend

[aerouta]

For most of the PLAs I use 2mm retraction and 1mm Z lift. For that gnarly yellow, I use 4mm retraction and 1mm Z lift. No wipe. This is in KISSslicer.

What temp do you use, 190c? I have had some issues with PLA on v5. The issue is constant across several different filaments. The print seems to start just fine but then I start to hear a popping sound from the EZ extruder, and my prints look like they are surfing from a bad case of filament starving.
I tried printing at 190c and it would clog pretty quickly. I had to bump it up to 205 to get good flow out of the hot end.
I am also using 5/5/5/5 on prime/retract/wipe/z-lift. I can

good to see you again!

[mhackney]

I've run PLA up to 215°C (that nasty pink stuff I posted in the troubleshooting thread. I'm using 2mm prime and suck. Are you getting good air flow from the fan and shroud.

[DavidF]

Ok, I want to go on record and clear up ANY concerns folks may have about the E3D's ability to print PLA. There may have been issues with version 4 but I can unequivocally state that version 5 is the best hot end I've used (and I've tried 6) and after at least 100 hours of nearly continuous printing with many different PLAs I have not had a single hot end issue - no plugging, no dribbiing/drooling, and no stringing (even on a particularly nasty yellow PLA that always strings. This is simply one fen hot end. I'm really looking forward to the water cooled 4 nozzle Kraken that has a similar SS heat break design.

Getting ready to make the switch now, I bought my e3d when I purchased my printer with the idea that the stock hot end couldnt cut it. The stock hot end has worked out fine for me so Im kinda reluctant to switch but I have the e3d so I might as well make use of it.
Now I just need to go back thru all 33 pages and find the best mounting set up to use..
I hope it works as well as im expecting, not sure If I have version 4 or 5 shipped 9-13, how can I tell what version?

[Eaglezsoar]

Ok, I want to go on record and clear up ANY concerns folks may have about the E3D's ability to print PLA. There may have been issues with version 4 but I can unequivocally state that version 5 is the best hot end I've used (and I've tried 6) and after at least 100 hours of nearly continuous printing with many different PLAs I have not had a single hot end issue - no plugging, no dribbiing/drooling, and no stringing (even on a particularly nasty yellow PLA that always strings. This is simply one fen hot end. I'm really looking forward to the water cooled 4 nozzle Kraken that has a similar SS heat break design.

Getting ready to make the switch now, I bought my e3d when I purchased my printer with the idea that the stock hot end couldnt cut it. The stock hot end has worked out fine for me so Im kinda reluctant to switch but I have the e3d so I might as well make use of it.
Now I just need to go back thru all 33 pages and find the best mounting set up to use..
I hope it works as well as im expecting, not sure If I have version 4 or 5 shipped 9-13, how can I tell what version?

Go to http://e3d-online.com/index.php?route=i ... on/contact
Fill out the contact form and ask them giving the date of purchase and order number if you have it and ask what version you were sent.

[aerouta]

I've run PLA up to 215°C (that nasty pink stuff I posted in the troubleshooting thread. I'm using 2mm prime and suck. Are you getting good air flow from the fan and shroud.

I noticed that my fan mount is about 2 fins short from the first fin. Maybe that would be the issue? I will disassemble and try and preposition this.

I will also reduce the destring values. Why do you sometimes run zero wipe?

[mhackney]

I used wipe with the SeeMe extruder but found this one does not need it. It gives a nice clean cut off with a retract. I believe that is due to the very small melt zone in the E3D.

[McSlappy]

After much absence and procrastinating, I'm installing the e3d v5!

I went with a 3mm stud mounted thermistor... For some reason the thought of taping those hair-like wires into the messy arrangement as shown by the e3d pdf, made me cringe... I'm liking the clean look and sturdy end on these threaded ones. Ebay was my source if anyone else wants to know (search 3mm stud thermistor)

Would someone wiser than me please confirm my steps here:
- install e3d.
- install e3d fan direct to 12v power so that it runs whenever the printer is on.
- update firmware
- re-calibrate axis
- print stuff and make friends.

Any other things I've missed. I've read this whole thread, but I want to make sure before I do anything too destructive.

[Eaglezsoar]

After much absence and procrastinating, I'm installing the e3d v5!

I went with a 3mm stud mounted thermistor... For some reason the thought of taping those hair-like wires into the messy arrangement as shown by the e3d pdf, made me cringe... I'm liking the clean look and sturdy end on these threaded ones. Ebay was my source if anyone else wants to know (search 3mm stud thermistor)

Would someone wiser than me please confirm my steps here:
- install e3d.
- install e3d fan direct to 12v power so that it runs whenever the printer is on.
- update firmware
- re-calibrate axis
- print stuff and make friends.

Any other things I've missed. I've read this whole thread, but I want to make sure before I do anything too destructive.

You got it Mcslappy! You did take it to 300C and snugged it up? That seems to be a step that is missed in the instructions.
Enjoy your new E3d and making new friends.

[mhackney]

+1 Eagle - DO tighten the nozzle and heat break at 300°C!!! You WILL leak if you don't.

Not sure why you need to update firmware - only the Z height should need adjustment. Don't forget to change nozzle diameter in your slicer. And, a switch on the hot end fan is convenient to turn it off when the end is cool but the printer is powered up.

[aerouta]

As anyone had issues with long PLA prints with the v5 hotend? I just replaced the heat break, heater block, and nozzle. I was able to bring the print temp down to 190 however after about 4hrs in I started to get the popping sound out of the the extruder.

I have attached a photo of the last print with the new components. I really thought I had things fixed. I thought I was extruding too much plastic so I brought the flow down. And that did not seem to help.

Sorry for the bad picture, it's taking for a webcam. When I walked away from the print everything seemed fine.

[mhackney]

I've had several 6-8 hour prints and many 3-4 hour prints with PLA with no issues. I will say, if you change a nozzle, you still have to do the 300°C install treatment. I had an issue after I moved to a .7mm nozzle and did not do that. After an hour or so, I started hearing the extruder skip steps and I was getting filament starving. I had a plug in the ever so slight gap between the heat break and nozzle that had opened up as site nozzle loosened.

[aerouta]

I tightening the heater block against the heat break and the nozzle against the heater block all at 275. I tightened them pretty nice and snug.

[bubbasnow]

I tightening the heater block against the heat break and the nozzle against the heater block all at 275. I tightened them pretty nice and snug.

hold up!

the nozzle should be tightened against the heat break only at temp, the heat break to the cooling fins should be snug by hand.

maybe i misunderstood?

[dpmacri]

I tightening the heater block against the heat break and the nozzle against the heater block all at 275. I tightened them pretty nice and snug.

hold up!

the nozzle should be tightened against the heat break only at temp, the heat break to the cooling fins should be snug by hand.

maybe i misunderstood?

I think you're correct. The nozzle should NOT be snug up against the heater block. And the manual says to do it at 300C not 275C!

[McSlappy]

You got it Mcslappy! You did take it to 300C and snugged it up? That seems to be a step that is missed in the instructions.
Enjoy your new E3d and making new friends.

Yep I'll make sure I do that part, yes it does seem that some people missed it. Looks like it's doable once it's fully installed, though the manual shows it being snugged out of the printer body. Anyone confirm?

Not sure why you need to update firmware - only the Z height should need adjustment. Don't forget to change nozzle diameter in your slicer. And, a switch on the hot end fan is convenient to turn it off when the end is cool but the printer is powered up.

Well I don't think I need to, but as long as I'm having to do some tweaking to Z height and as long as there's a new firmware released I thought I'd combine the two hassles into one.

[mhackney]

Just FYI - the new firmware will require a complete recalibration of your printer. Setting new X, Y and Z max lengths is easy.

[aerouta]

My firmware only allows up to 275.

Any suggestions to solve the filament starving/clogging issue? It only happenings on long prints.

[mhackney]

Have you correctly assembled the nozzle and heat break and tightened them at 300°C as per the instruction sheet? It is imperative that you do so or you could have the sorts of problems you're reporting.

[McSlappy]

Just FYI - the new firmware will require a complete recalibration of your printer. Setting new X, Y and Z max lengths is easy.

That is true... What are the benefits of the .91 firmware anyone? I'm running 0.80.

[McSlappy]

Oh I almost forgot. Those who also got a 3mm stud thermistor like I'm using... I saw someone mention having to change a setting in the firmware. Is this correct?
Here's what the thermistor is listed as being.
B57560G104F 100k Thermistor

Thanks

[dpmacri]

My firmware only allows up to 275.

Any suggestions to solve the filament starving/clogging issue? It only happenings on long prints.

The max value allowed is in the Configuration.h file. I can't remember what it's called, though, and I'm not by my printer. Search for 275 and see what the define is called. If it has MAX and TEMP in it, the it's probably the right one . Change it to 300 (or 320 although these thermistors aren't rated that high ).

[Eaglezsoar]

Oh I almost forgot. Those who also got a 3mm stud thermistor like I'm using... I saw someone mention having to change a setting in the firmware. Is this correct?
Here's what the thermistor is listed as being.
B57560G104F 100k Thermistor

Thanks

I read through the posts I could find on the threaded thermistor and no one mentions having to make a firmware change after installing one.

[Eaglezsoar]

My firmware only allows up to 275.

Any suggestions to solve the filament starving/clogging issue? It only happenings on long prints.

The max value allowed is in the Configuration.h file. I can't remember what it's called, though, and I'm not by my printer. Search for 275 and see what the define is called. If it has MAX and TEMP in it, the it's probably the right one . Change it to 300 (or 320 although these thermistors aren't rated that high ).

It is called #define MAXTEMP

[McSlappy]

I read through the posts I could find on the threaded thermistor and no one mentions having to make a firmware change after installing one.

Great. I started it up and it registered the same temp as the bed so I assumed it was functioning correctly.

[mhackney]

Benefits of the new firmware over .80:

completely new LCD interface that's more logical
a serious bug fix that causes .80 to hang on veeeerrrrrrryyyyyyy long (8+ hours) prints. But some experienced this sooner than others
autocalibration "alpha"
Many other fixes and enhancements, you can check the change log at Repetier.