Another rostock max build

[Eaglezsoar]

Do you mind giving your source for the heat sinks you show on the motors?

[cambo3d]

Do you mind giving your source for the heat sinks you show on the motors?

i use rc motor heatsinks 540/550 size. bought from ebay but you can get them at most hobby stores.

[cambo3d]

all metal hotend goodness

[cpunches]

Awesome. Can't wait till my E3D gets here.

[cambo3d]

using the kossel mount for jhead from thingiverse. milled out of aluminum.

[ApacheXMD]

Wow that kossel mount looks great. Put it all together already!

[cambo3d]

Wow that kossel mount looks great. Put it all together already!

i would but i dont have the correct size tap for the bowden fitting yet. its on order though.

[ApacheXMD]

Maybe someone else has posted this already, but when tapping the e3d hotend for the quickfit connectors, I'm assuming youd have to drill the top to match the tap, right? Then would a bottoming tap be required or would a standard tapered tap be ok?

[cambo3d]

im not tapping my ed3, i'm tapping my aluminum mount for the bowden adapter, the ed3 sits inside my aluminum mount no tapping necessary. I actually located a the correct tap. didn't have to order it after all.

[Flateric]

But to answer the other method. Yes, it must meet a flat bottom in the barrel. And the barrel must be totally perfectly free of any edges or ledges. Cambo3d's solution is not only better but far easier to pull of perfectly and not affect your hotend performance at all.

[Flateric]

could you show the whole works as well, I'd be interested in your slot mounting idea and the way you retain everything.

[Eaglezsoar]

Great work on the aluminum! If you intend to sell the Kossel in aluminum could you put it in your Seeme's list.

[cambo3d]

could you show the whole works as well, I'd be interested in your slot mounting idea and the way you retain everything.

its the standard jhead type of mount, nothing new. the jhead/ed3 fits into the circular recessed hole and then the slot mount secures the jhead/ed3 in place to keep it from coming out.

then the whole assembly is attaches to the rostock platform through the 3 holes

[cambo3d]

Great work on the aluminum! If you intend to sell the Kossel in aluminum could you put it in your Seeme's list.

Thanks Carl. There was a lot of trial and error before I got the final pieces cut correctly on my cnc router and there's still a little tweaking to do for better fit. I think its gonna work the way it is for now.
I didn't have plans to sell em, its not really my design but if anyone wants a mount. I'll make it. I actually think it will be good for the ed3, aluminum will act as a heat sink also to help take away the heat off the parts that don't need to be heated.

[Eaglezsoar]

Great work on the aluminum! If you intend to sell the Kossel in aluminum could you put it in your Seeme's list.

Thanks Carl. There was a lot of trial and error before I got the final pieces cut correctly on my cnc router and there's still a little tweaking to do for better fit. I think its gonna work the way it is for now.
I didn't have plans to sell em, its not really my design but if anyone wants a mount. I'll make it. I actually think it will be good for the ed3, aluminum will act as a heat sink also to help take away the heat off the parts that don't need to be heated.

See your PM

[cambo3d]

Using stock seemecnc thermistor only because I couldn't get the thermistor that came with it to stay in the hole reliably. Also, the hole for the heating cartridge was not a very good fit. I had to drill it out so it would fit properly. Also be careful when tightening down the stainless steel parts, I twisted mine on accident. luckily i bought two.

The temperature readings were only about 3 degrees off from the stock hot end setup. I wanted to see how this thing would perform at higher temps so up'ed the maxtemp value to 300c and only got calibrated measured reading of 293c on my thermocouple temp probe. Even though rephost says 299c. The temperature chart seemed to fluctuate more starting at 260C and up. So i'm guessing i need to rerun the pid autotune. Maybe that will smooth it out and get my reading more accurate?? will do when the temps get back to room temp.

Included some photos of the new hot end mounted. At 293c this thing barely gets warm, unlike the stock setup which at 220, i could not comfortably touch the bowden adapter without getting burned. Although, I think I would prefer a higher cfm rated fan. Already on the hunt for one.

temperature probe is inserted all the down inside the tip of the ED3 Nozzle for calibration purposes. Also this turn out to be a little trouble seems as though my thermocouple is not rated for 300c. even though the package says otherwise. I managed to melt the insulation of the sensor somewhat. Hopefully there's not a lot of plastic stuck in there to affect my prints or extrusion. maybe the bits will come out hopefully after a couple of extrusion cycles.

Decided to wrap my hotend up this time with ceramic insulation and kapton tape to keep the radiate heat of the printed parts. and to help stablize temp when part cooling fans running.

random shot of it all mounted up.

[cambo3d]

Update on mods Ive been working on, migrated them over to the TL-1 frame from Tricklaser.com

My turn adjustable buckle tensioner; proved to be excellent functional mod, must have for the rostock max.
Tricklaser carbon fiber arms; excellent upgrade to improve accuracy and ease of installation. no sanding required.
ED3 all metal hot end; capable of 400c plus. wider range of printing material choices.

Mic 6 build surface; flat build surface ,even heat distribution and non flexing during heating cycles. downside, it takes longer to heat up this massive piece of metal with the onyx. around 10-15min but it holds temperature fairly well.

extended z height; not necessarily for larger printing area. I extended the length to compensate for other mods taking up build space.
hall effect limit switches for more consistent z height repeatability.

[Eaglezsoar]

Very well done and I am jealous.
Now we need to see what kind of prints you can do with that miracle of technology.
It looks like you have 4 points of attachment on the Mic6 heat bed, is it adjustable, like on springs?
That's one big chunk of metal!
Please let us know how she prints with some pictures. Great job!

[cambo3d]

so after much thought and testing this was my final solution. Decided to mount the switch sideways so there would be no chance that the carriage would come in contact with the switch causing damage.

[ApacheXMD]

Looks great. Still easily adjustable with a wrench at the magnet. How's repeatibilty so far?

[cambo3d]

Looks great. Still easily adjustable with a wrench at the magnet. How's repeatibilty so far?

repeatability is spot on every time, no more fiddling around with screw position. I'm super-satified how they turned out.

[cambo3d]

since i bent one of the stainless steel tubes on my ed3, I found this to be a direct fit. Even though not the same and not saying this would be any better.

Qubd hotend has a beefier stainless steel tube and longer. Which would allow a larger size fan mount.

Just experimenting since I had the parts. If it works out be nice to know you could get replacement parts in the USA.

ed3 stock image.jpg (13.25 KiB) Viewed 17004 times

[ApacheXMD]

with the longer stainless part, you have more of it exposed to open air (as opposed to it being either on the heat sink or heating block), do you think the plastic transition zone will grow? I think heat might creep up the stainless a little bit more since there's no heatsink there.

[cambo3d]

with the longer stainless part, you have more of it exposed to open air (as opposed to it being either on the heat sink or heating block), do you think the plastic transition zone will grow? I think heat might creep up the stainless a little bit more since there's no heatsink there.

dont know, like I said just experimenting with it. but here is what the trinity labs hot end looks like. tube is just as long.

[cambo3d]

came out decent, just a lil more fine tuning. printed in abs, with kisslicer. retraction seems good. Overall pretty excited that I'm getting it dialed in. smaller nozzle seems to make the details better, corners are much sharper.

.25 layer height, 235c for the hotend, 85c for the bed, retraction speed 40, prime 8.5, suck 8, infill hollow, ezstruder, ed3 hotend, tricklaser.com carbon fiber arms.