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mhackney wrote:bret4, I use .030" PEI, used 3/4" wide tape and have NO issues with lines or other issues in the parts.

I've not checked in here for some time, but I took Mhackney's advice and did this months ago. It's been GREAT.
Out of 200-250 prints over the past 2 months, I think I've had only one or two parts fail, and usually due to a setting issue, NOT a board adhesion issue.

The coolest part of this is, when the part cools off a bit, it "auto-detatches" from the PEI.... really rather nice..

The only thing I did different was that I found some 3M adhesive in 12" x 12" plates, and used that on the PEI.. so my installation is a one piece installation....
I wouldn't hesitate to do this in a skinny minute....

I have the same materials that you used.

Was there any difficulty in attaching the 12"x12" tape patch to eother part?

Which did you tape first the PEI or the Glass?

nitewatchman

Has anyone tried any of the Taulman filaments on PEI?

I've got several rolls of different types, I just haven't had a chance to try any of them.

For folks that have tried the Taulman stuff what are your thoughts on temperature compared to ABS?

I wouldn't risk it. The PEI is expensive and I suspect the nylons would potentially damage/ruin it. Nylon requires much higher nozzle temps. You can get all the details you need on the taulman web site. I recommend that Garolite to print on.

ive done t-glase and it works fine

Thanks Mhackney, I'll read up on the Taulman site.

Good to know that the t-glase works, Bubba, because I've got a lot of it! I have several rolls of t-glase and two of bridge. I probably should have been more specific in my question, because I don't have any of the 618 or 645. I think the stock hot end would struggle to print it even, you'd have to go to something like an E3D, no? Anyway, off to do research, and pick up a slab of garolite, for science.

If anyone is re applying the PEI, maybe a video demonstration would be helpful for anyone thinking of doing this in the future

honestly i don't think folks are going to ever have to reapply the PEI... Mine is down "permanently" - especially after it's baked on for 40 or 50 prints!

In my opnion the most difficult part of this is simply getting the PEI cut properly, so it doesn't stick over the edge..

I got lazy, found a local sign shop with a digital cutting machine, and con'd them into cutting it for me, so I got a perfect circle.. THen I put the 12x12" double-back tape on it, cut off the excess, and I was raedy to go!

for prep of the glass, I simply washed it with windex, then wiped down with ISA (rubbing alcohol), let it dry for 3 or 4 minutes, and carefully applied the disc onto it.

I used a large roller pipe (2" steel pipe i had laying around) to "squeegie" it, to get bubbles out and ensure a flat adhesion....

All in all, i've got a near flat finish. Any inconsistencies are minimal - I've spent far more time leveling out the printer than I have worrying about the PEI..

Big picture, one has to remember that FDM 3D printing is really a very crude art still, and one is NOT going to be able to do engineering-grade work with it. So being very worried about getting the PEI to be ABSOLUTELY flat is a bit of a waste of time...

This will change with the next generation of SLA type printers which are hitting the market this year.. But until we're able to consistently hold a .005" variance of measurement from screen to finished product, the minor level imperfections of PEI are quite irrelevant. Bottom line: putting PEI on a printer would be the VERY FIRST step I'd take upon buying a 3d printer.

^ totally agree with the bottom line

Finally my May 26 Amazon order of PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length (Pack of 1) has come! Now that the question: how to (chemically) remove glue stick lines from boro glass? And how to prepare glass to applying adhesive+PEI pie? Alchogol?

Renha wrote:Finally my May 26 Amazon order of PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length (Pack of 1) has come! Now that the question: how to (chemically) remove glue stick lines from boro glass? And how to prepare glass to applying adhesive+PEI pie? Alchogol?

put the glass in the sink and clean it off with hot water and dish soap.. makes the glass squeaky clean!

G

guanu wrote:

Renha wrote:Finally my May 26 Amazon order of PEI (Polyetherimide) Sheet, Opaque Off-White, 0.03" Thickness, 12" Width, 12" Length (Pack of 1) has come! Now that the question: how to (chemically) remove glue stick lines from boro glass? And how to prepare glass to applying adhesive+PEI pie? Alchogol?

put the glass in the sink and clean it off with hot water and dish soap.. makes the glass squeaky clean!

G

Done! Thank you

I am relatively new to the forum and I am reading the old posts now. Lots of good info.

Would someone be kind enough to repost the links that work, for the PEI and the adhesive. I know it sounds lazy to ask, but some stuff works and some doesnt, not living in the USA is problematic because you have to pay extra shipping and it takes much longer... So mistakes cost more time and money

Also there is another thread here people add a layer of copper or aluminum under their glass plate.

So why not get rid of the glass plate all together. Get a piece of aluminum or copper and stick the PEI on to that?

teoman, the best method to attach the PEI is with the 3M double sided tape. I've used the 1/2" and 3/4" wide tape successfully. In the US PEI can be purchased from Amazon or McMasterCarr but there have been some issues with Amazon's nominal 12" square size being a bit too small.

As for using aluminum or copper, the issue really is "flatness". Borosilicate glass is remarkable flat and inexpensive. The thin copper and aluminum we use under glass to dissipate heat are no where near as flat (and copper in particular bends very easily). You can pay a lot for MIC6 or similar "flat" aluminum but it does not come in thin sheets. The thicker material takes a lot more power (power supply) and longer to heat up. I found the combination of an inexpensive sheet of 1/8" aluminum under borosilicate glass with PEI on one side, is cost effective, provides a dead flat surface and gives me the option to flip the glass/PEI over to use the glass side if I need to use hairspray, blue tape or other treatment for some reason (I've never done this though!).

I was thinking of getting the copper plate pressed a few times and then polishing it on a very flat surface. But is suppose you are right.

So this is the one to get?

B0013HKZTA

At

http://www.amazonsupply.com/polyetherim ... 6523581011

Or has someone found a better solution.

I have poor bed adhesion and would like to get this sorted out. I am currently unable to print more than 2 parts at the same time because after some time the parts just let go.

The .03" version of that is exactly what I used.

Also, it says free shipping over 50 usd.

SO while i am purchasing what else do you recommend that i get?

Thanks.

I also saw some double sided aluminum tape, would that have any beneficial effects?

teoman wrote:Also, it says free shipping over 50 usd.

SO while i am purchasing what else do you recommend that i get?

Thanks.

The tape used to adhere the PEI is listed here: http://www.amazon.com/TapeCase-468MP-0- ... ZKACRVH5ZV

They also sell various widths and lengths of this tape.

The tape has to be thin and flat like the 3M material Eaglesoarz linked. The aluminum tape will likely transmit bumps through the thin PEI. An interesting idea though! I wonder if you could adhere it to the glass and burnish it smooth then attach the PEI. But, in the end, you need a higher temp adhesive too, the 3M is designed for this sort of application.

mhackney wrote:The tape has to be thin and flat like the 3M material Eaglesoarz linked. The aluminum tape will likely transmit bumps through the thin PEI. An interesting idea though! I wonder if you could adhere it to the glass and burnish it smooth then attach the PEI. But, in the end, you need a higher temp adhesive too, the 3M is designed for this sort of application.

That is exactly right, the adhesive on the aluminum tape is not designed to adhere at 90 - 100 Centigrade.

Ok. I just made the order...

Cant wait for it to get here.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Y7D5N ... 15&simLd=1
Also got this.

I thought having a big piece would be beneficial.

Also got a 4cm fan. Amazing how they display "customerw who bought this also bought.."

teoman wrote:Ok. I just made the order...

Cant wait for it to get here.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007Y7D5N ... 15&simLd=1
Also got this.

I thought having a big piece would be beneficial.

Also got a 4cm fan. Amazing how they display "customerw who bought this also bought.."

Using the 1 foot tape you have to be extra careful applying the tape to the glass, it tends to form air bubbles under it.
The same when putting the PEI onto the tape. Just take your time and you should be okay.

I found that it is much easier to apply the tape to the PEI and then the PEI to the glass. This way both can be "flexed" to roll it into place essentially eliminating the bubble problem.