Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

bob64 wrote:I just noticed you mounted your pcb heated with the nylon spacers between the Onyx and the snowflake. I'm a bit curious as to why.

I plug the center hole in the snowflake and run the wiring out the back instead of thru the hole. This keeps direct drafts from the power supply off the bed and improves temperature stability. There was a thread pertaining to this recently and drafts were causing dimensional issues for some users with a stock machine. I've never encountered the issue myself, but never allowed for the draft to occur either.

KAS wrote:

lyncos79 wrote:

forrie wrote:Have you seen what KAS has done a few posts up?

Yes, but he's not using the little posts and I am using them... Maybe I can give a try but I feel I'll loose height..

Anyway, can I please get a link to that 'fan rack' stl file ? I may give a try.

Thanks

I drew up a quick print to use a specific type of fan. I have it mounted to one of the tabs on the Trick Laser platform.

The zip file contains the .rsdoc used with DesignSpark Mechanical.
UDQFC3E15_Layer_Fan.zip
UDQFC3E15_Layer_Fan.stl

That fan can be found: http://www.mpja.com/5VDC-Mini-CPU-Fan/p ... 2166%20FN/

[img]http://s4.postimg.org/ytfrhpk4t/20150925_192707.jpg[/img]

So I did buy these fans and printed the layer fan stl

Then I found out they will not work with a Full Max Metal kit and E3D Hot end set up the right way

Does anyone have a Fan mount that will work with these fans!
http://www.mpja.com/5VDC-Mini-CPU-Fan/p ... /32166+FN/

Thanks!

and still do not know why I can not post pictures? anyone have the same problem?

Here try these..
https://www.dropbox.com/s/9v602thkrc74r ... 2.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6kq9uxnyrt9p3 ... 4.jpg?dl=0

I'm actually hitting the same problem as you. There really isn't enough clearance to mount a good fan duct + fan. I'm thinking that I really should give up on maximizing "z" height and just sacrifice that for a bit more flexibility in fan mounting.

Hey sorry I didn't see your post earlier. Yeah that mount was designed for a unique setup with the Prometheus hotend hung 3/4 below the effector.
Honestly, I have never even come close to printing at full Z. I'm more interested in the larger circumference ability.


Download DesignSpark and use the CAD file attached above. You can push/pull and adjust the mounting angle to match just about any setup. Unless the fan comes to close to the nozzle that is.

[img]http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr18 ... G_0265.jpg[/img]

Is that your LCD ring attached between the effector and the jhead mount? That effector looks like the tricklaser one so how does it shine the light through the metal?

If you check out the platform its mostly empty space
So it just shines through the areas where there is no aluminum

Nylocke is correct. No LEDs are covered up, they just happen to fit perfectly within the frame.

[img]http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr18 ... 130806.jpg[/img]

KAS wrote:Nylocke is correct. No LEDs are covered up, they just happen to fit perfectly within the frame.

[img]http://i482.photobucket.com/albums/rr18 ... 130806.jpg[/img]

Nice! that is a neat way to mount the light ring... I did not realize the LED's would fit like that.
One of the reasons I designed the area between arm mounting screws as wide as possible was so heat sink cooling fan can fit down between, allowing any mounting height of hot end. Even the E3D 30mm fan and shroud fits down in there.
I also wanted platform as light as possible but still rigid.

~~~~ CAUTION ~~~~~
Be careful not to short out the light ring by clamping it right against metal platform or groove mount, you might want to use nylon washers between metal and light ring. The newest revision of light ring has extra connection pads intended for powering ring through stand offs, so watch out for that if mounting to metal platform!
KAS, you might have a older revision of light ring, that does not have the added pads, so maybe you won't have any issue.

Here is a bracket to mount the YJ-Pad wiring block by Yellow Jacket Concepts to the MAX METAL Frame side extrusions.
http://repables.com/r/752/

What's the threading on the screws that are used in the rubber feet? I'm releasing a TON of stuff for the MAX METAL, including new feet that bolt directly to the frame. I'm going to secure them with nylon locknuts, but I need to know what size to get.

626Pilot wrote:What's the threading on the screws that are used in the rubber feet? I'm releasing a TON of stuff for the MAX METAL, including new feet that bolt directly to the frame. I'm going to secure them with nylon locknuts, but I need to know what size to get.

1/4-20

ccavanaugh wrote:1/4-20

Thank you very much!

I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing any crucial prints from your Github repository before I start disassembling ahead of receiving my Max Metal frame. Here's what I've printed so far:

(3) Limit switch brackets
(3) Heated bed insulator bracket v3
(3) Trick truck belt spacer
(3) Trick truck belt clamp
Note: I am using a hanging struder, so I don't need the Ezstruder mount.

I'm going to try printing the drill guide, but my printer is pretty out of whack and I'm not sure if I can print something that big yet or not. My plan was to print the bare minimum, assemble the Max Metal to be functional, and then print the rest once it's built and calibrated so I can get some clean/accurate prints.

Thanks!

d1rron wrote:I just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing any crucial prints from your Github repository before I start disassembling ahead of receiving my Max Metal frame. Here's what I've printed so far:

(3) Limit switch brackets
(3) Heated bed insulator bracket v3
(3) Trick truck belt spacer
(3) Trick truck belt clamp
Note: I am using a hanging struder, so I don't need the Ezstruder mount.

I'm going to try printing the drill guide, but my printer is pretty out of whack and I'm not sure if I can print something that big yet or not. My plan was to print the bare minimum, assemble the Max Metal to be functional, and then print the rest once it's built and calibrated so I can get some clean/accurate prints.

Thanks!

You won't need the drill guide as it was for the very first set of frames.... kind of forgot it was there.

The FSR brackets may work easier than the heated bed insulator even if you don't use the FSRs. They don't require modifying the snowflake and help reduce warping with thermal expansion of the heated bed by avoiding over constraining the snowflake. Without the FSR's installed, the snowflake should rest on the horizontal rails. It also make access to wiring underneath the bed quick and simply.

Also, the belt tensioners may be of use.

Excellent! Thank you! One more question, if I could. I noticed there are the limit switch brackets and also the "Top Vertex" STLs -- are those two versions of the same thing? And if so, do you recommend the Limit Switch stl over the "Top Vertex"? I noticed that "Limit Switch.STL" is quite a bit newer, but thought I should ask anyway just in case.

I'll see if I can print those tensioners accurately with my printer the way it is at the moment.

Thanks again!

d1rron wrote:Excellent! Thank you! One more question, if I could. I noticed there are the limit switch brackets and also the "Top Vertex" STLs -- are those two versions of the same thing? And if so, do you recommend the Limit Switch stl over the "Top Vertex"? I noticed that "Limit Switch.STL" is quite a bit newer, but thought I should ask anyway just in case.

I'll see if I can print those tensioners accurately with my printer the way it is at the moment.

Thanks again!

The Limit Switch Bracket is more compact and frees up the top slot of the horizontal rail for a enclosure design I have been picking at. You do need to install the 1/4-20 screws before attaching the limit switch. The "Top Vertex" is easier to install but takes more material and may get in the way of the enclosure.

Good to know! Also, is there a reason that the FSR brackets are in 3 separate files? I can't tell any difference between them, but I don't want to assume. Lol I guess it doesn't really matter. Thanks again!

d1rron wrote:Good to know! Also, is there a reason that the FSR brackets are in 3 separate files? I can't tell any difference between them, but I don't want to assume. Lol I guess it doesn't really matter. Thanks again!

The three versions prevent over constraint and allows for dimensional error and thermal expansion. One is "just right", the other is slotted and the the over is simply oversize.

@KAS
On my most recent build I mounted the light ring above platform like you showed. Great idea!

That looks clean, Brian!

bvandiepenbos wrote:On my most recent build I mounted the light ring above platform like you showed. Great idea!

What's that hot end you've got there?

626Pilot wrote:

bvandiepenbos wrote:On my most recent build I mounted the light ring above platform like you showed. Great idea!

What's that hot end you've got there?

Beta testing new pico hybrid from B3 Innovations.

Here's a remix of ccavanaugh's electronics enclosure front plate for those of us running a smoothie without an LCD screen. It has a 19mm front hole to fit standard car LED switches as well as the power switch that came with the RM2.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/4LYJ4W6.jpg[/img]

miglo wrote:Here's a remix of ccavanaugh's electronics enclosure front plate for those of us running a smoothie without an LCD screen. It has a 19mm front hole to fit standard car LED switches as well as the power switch that came with the RM2.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/4LYJ4W6.jpg[/img]

NOGLCD Front Cover.stl

Very nice!

Oh cool! Will you do one that says Max Metal too? I just got used to calling it that.