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bob64 wrote:I always retract all of it out the hotend instead of cutting when possible. If you cut, that section won't retract at all once it's past the titan. Also unscrewing the bowden wears out the bowden tube and the connector.

No problems with blocking the bowden tube? I've read that backing the hot filament out of the bowden tube can cause contamination of the tube or PTFE and don't myself have enough experience to dispute it.

Michael

miglo wrote:I'll clean it up some and toss it up on thingiverse tomorrow morning.

Please let us know when its up!

Michael

Span24 wrote:

miglo wrote:My original flynstrude didn't fit. So I just reimagined it. Motor is one of those tiny short-body 13N Nema17 pancake steppers. Ultra light compared to the original.

What is the length of the stepper you are using? Weight? We recently ordered some 20 and 25mm steppers to see how they perform. Unfortunately, they ship from China so we may be calling them Christmas gifts by the time they arrive.

I'm curious to know more about yours and how it performs.

Michael

I got this one:
http://omc-stepperonline.kancart.com/it ... 01#!detail

[img]http://i.imgur.com/fMLhZmA.jpg[/img]

Span24 wrote:

miglo wrote:I'll clean it up some and toss it up on thingiverse tomorrow morning.

Please let us know when its up!

Michael

Here you go!

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1547276

miglo wrote:I got this one:
http://omc-stepperonline.kancart.com/it ... 01#!detail
[img]http://i.imgur.com/fMLhZmA.jpg[/img]

Yep! That's the smaller of the two that we ordered. The other is a 25mm. Looking forward to seeing how they work on the Titan!

Most here believe them to be too large to mount directly to the hot-end. Can't say that I disagree but I'm looking forward to testing. I'm sure that we will have to slow things down. Many said that we couldn't air-strude an Orion but I have a local friend who is doing it. Won't know until we try, I guess...

Michael

miglo wrote:

Span24 wrote:

miglo wrote:Here you go!
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1547276

Thanks! I'm reviewing multiple designs to come up with something that will work for us. This helps a TONNE!

Michael

When I'm switching filament or whatever, I just clip it above the extruder, and do a cold pull. With the flying extruder config, I'm only losing about 8" per swap, and it's easy.

And what about the flexidrive? I remember reading about it a year ago. It sure looks like a great idea.
The system uses a flexible driveshaft so the extruder is on the hotend, while the stepper motor is mounted on the machine.

It should have all the benefits of a direct feed extruder, but be lightweight and able to print faster like bowden.
The weird thing is that I haven't seen them anywhere nowadays.

Found it...
Here is the post from the reprap community:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,356635,page=1

and their webs page:
http://mutley3d.com/Flex-Build/

Tincho85 wrote:Found it...
Here is the post from the reprap community:
http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,356635,page=1

and their webs page:
http://mutley3d.com/Flex-Build/

Interesting, though not currently available for the rostock...

Seems like you'd have some hysteresis still. Probably less than filament through a bowden, though.

Span24 wrote:

miglo wrote:I got this one:
http://omc-stepperonline.kancart.com/it ... 01#!detail
[img]http://i.imgur.com/fMLhZmA.jpg[/img]

Yep! That's the smaller of the two that we ordered. The other is a 25mm. Looking forward to seeing how they work on the Titan!

Most here believe them to be too large to mount directly to the hot-end. Can't say that I disagree but I'm looking forward to testing. I'm sure that we will have to slow things down. Many said that we couldn't air-strude an Orion but I have a local friend who is doing it. Won't know until we try, I guess...

Michael

Put this little guy through its paces over the weekend. So far it performed like a champ from 60-200mm/s (S3D) with a .4mm nozzle printed @ .25mm layers.

miglo wrote:Put this little guy through its paces over the weekend. So far it performed like a champ from 60-200mm/s (S3D) with a .4mm nozzle printed @ .25mm layers.

Encouraging!
Got mine in today. Unfortunately, I'm headed in for back surgery tomorrow so probably wont be at the bench for a week or so...

Just got my Titan today along with the pancake stepper. Does anything have to be changed in the firmware and/or EEPROM for these?

Yes, you will need to calibrate your steps per mm for that extruder. You can change that using the EEPROM.
And in the firmware adjust the current for that motor. If you are using Repetier, in Configuration.h, change line 701, where motor current settings are defined. The array of settings is {X,Y,Z,E0,E1} so if you have the extruder connected in the stock manner, you want to change the E0 number.

Tincho85 wrote:Yes, you will need to calibrate your steps per mm for that extruder. You can change that using the EEPROM.
And in the firmware adjust the current for that motor. If you are using Repetier, in Configuration.h, change line 701, where motor current settings are defined. The array of settings is {X,Y,Z,E0,E1} so if you have the extruder connected in the stock manner, you want to change the E0 number.

Mine ended up being 416.

Okay, I have everything installed, but am doubting myself. On line 701, I currently have this (default from SeeMeCNC): #define MOTOR_CURRENT {140,140,140,130,0} // Values 0-255 (RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A) use 140 for xyz and 130 for the E if using Kysan motors and 175 xyz and 200 if using wantai motors. I find it odd that the value is 130 now, when the stock motors appear to be rated 1.5A motors. Forgive me, I don't know much about stepper motors - are they supposed to be set to 50% of the rated current? The new one I am using is rated 1A. I am assuming I could leave it at the current setting which puts it around .7A. Also, with the EEPROM, I am not entirely certain about which ones to change (using MatterControl BTW). I see two steps/mm, one at the beginning and one for Extruder 1 steps/mm near the bottom. I just change those, or do I have to change others also? I have I don't want to start up a print without making sure I have it right. Thanks and please excuse my ignorance on this!

Uh, motor_current is relative to the rambo board's "sense" resistor. Ideally you should set your current to 70%-90% of your stepper's maximum current.

VRef = MaxStepperAmps* 0.8
MOTOR_CURRENT = (VRef / 1.66) * 255

so I'd set it to about 100 or so. Best way to tell is try holding your cheapskates in place and see if your stepper stalls. If it does, then increase the current. If it doesn't stall, but after ahwile your steppers get really hot, lower it.

Thanks that got me running. I have it at 93, it seemed a little hot at 100. I had to set my steps/mm to 400. Unfortunately I won't be able to test out the whole setup due to an unrelated F3 fuse blowing problem whenever I turn on the hotend heater. Accidentally broke the hot end thermistor while looking for shorts to no avail, so will definitely be out for at least a few days. Then have to hope that I can figure out that problem... So, Frustration!! Hope to have some actual results of the Titan and V6 airstruder this weekend if F3 treats me nicely.

I am up and running with my air struder with the e3D v6 and 13n pancake stepper. Great performance so far. I am running with retraction at 2mm at 50mm/s right now and prints are looking great. I haven't experimented much with different retraction lengths but am betting it could even go a little lower. Next on my list is to try some of the filaments that always jammed before like wood, flexible, metal.

Some images: (yes, I know my effector plate is upside down, but it works! )
[img]http://i.imgur.com/yPqZ7D3.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/TEy7WFJ.jpg[/img]

[img]http://imgur.com/OOKIwY0.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/5487ulm.jpg[/img]

Nice looking setup jtrezzo, thanks for sharing those images.
FYI I'm currently retracting 1.7mm at 30mm/s and probably could lower it a bit more.

kraegar wrote:Version where the tension adjustment is accessible is done (the offset isn't perfect on it, but it's accessible), printed and succesfully tested.

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1533835

Hope it helps others!

The hole for the cover is way too freaking snug given the fact you need like an additional 5mm of clearance to get the freaking center of the cover around the motor shaft of the stock rostock extruder motor.

Thanks for the great pictures!

Great job!

Sorry kids, Ive been away healing from a Lumbar Fusion but should now be able to spend more time at the idiot box!

A question that came to my mind seeing different air-struder implementations is, 'Are there any real considerations for mounting the extruder above or below the mount?' My design (pictures forthcoming) will position the extruder below the mount like the original but (as seen above) the jtrezzo implementation has the extruder above the mount. Thoughts?

Michael

Looks great! I am just getting mine setup the same way and bought a similar motor. How did you map the wiring colors?