Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Qdeathstar wrote:well, I already put in an order earlier today... so what should I do?

Just touch base through our contact form and we can send out an adaptor for testing. No worries.

Thanks so much! I made contact this morning

Here is the first prototype mount for the HE280 calibration board for the 713maker mounts. 4 grams alone and only 8 grams with screws. It replaces the standard lock ring and will be a standard option with all kits shortly. We are sending out a few test adaptors shortly and should have them on the site by Monday of this next week. We might still make a few changes to the design, but we have a great start already. For those who have already bought our kits, the rings will be listed in our store for around $5-$8 and we can offer first class mail shipping to save on such a small part.

Looks sexy. I posted it picture of it on the Arduino forums and they thought it came off a space shuttle.

That is looking sweet! I will definitely be ordering a full setup for the HE280. Just got to decide on color

Couple of questions on the hotend. Any issues with just using an m3 threaded thermistor in the far hole? I modded my original hot end to use the threaded one so I would just get another or reuse that one.

I picked up the wire whip but is it not possible to just use the stock v2 wiring with some modifications? I seen mention of this earlier in the thread but no follow up / answer. Just looking for the easiest option for swapping this onto my v2.

Thanks!

Ail wrote:That is looking sweet! I will definitely be ordering a full setup for the HE280. Just got to decide on color

Couple of questions on the hotend. Any issues with just using an m3 threaded thermistor in the far hole? I modded my original hot end to use the threaded one so I would just get another or reuse that one.

I picked up the wire whip but is it not possible to just use the stock v2 wiring with some modifications? I seen mention of this earlier in the thread but no follow up / answer. Just looking for the easiest option for swapping this onto my v2.

Thanks!

I'm not entirely sure what hotend you're referring to, but generally you should have too many issues with that so long as the hotend is tapped, or can be tapped.
Should be fine. Just add the connector and the correct wires to play nice with it. However, I would probably use the wire whip since you've ordered it, and then drill a hole to accept it. It's not like I haven't drilled plenty of holes in my melamine so far.

travelphotog wrote:Here is the first prototype mount for the HE280 calibration board for the 713maker mounts. 4 grams alone and only 8 grams with screws. It replaces the standard lock ring and will be a standard option with all kits shortly. We are sending out a few test adaptors shortly and should have them on the site by Monday of this next week. We might still make a few changes to the design, but we have a great start already. For those who have already bought our kits, the rings will be listed in our store for around $5-$8 and we can offer first class mail shipping to save on such a small part.2016-09-20 20.28.14.jpg2016-09-20 20.27.24.jpg2016-09-20 20.27.04.jpg2016-09-20 20.25.14.jpg2016-09-20 20.25.01.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.43.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.25.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.02.jpg

Can you give me the total height from the top of that Prometheus heatsink to the top of the board please.

I'm asking because we have the Prometheus multi filament kit coming and I'm trying to figure out if that board with your lock ring will fit under the Y junction block of the kit.

Thanks

TwoTone wrote:

travelphotog wrote:Here is the first prototype mount for the HE280 calibration board for the 713maker mounts. 4 grams alone and only 8 grams with screws. It replaces the standard lock ring and will be a standard option with all kits shortly. We are sending out a few test adaptors shortly and should have them on the site by Monday of this next week. We might still make a few changes to the design, but we have a great start already. For those who have already bought our kits, the rings will be listed in our store for around $5-$8 and we can offer first class mail shipping to save on such a small part.2016-09-20 20.28.14.jpg2016-09-20 20.27.24.jpg2016-09-20 20.27.04.jpg2016-09-20 20.25.14.jpg2016-09-20 20.25.01.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.43.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.25.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.02.jpg

Can you give me the total height from the top of that Prometheus heatsink to the top of the board please.

I'm asking because we have the Prometheus multi filament kit coming and I'm trying to figure out if that board with your lock ring will fit under the Y junction block of the kit.

Thanks

I am not 100% sure where it is you are seeking to measure from. I can tell you that from the top of the mount to the bottom of the board is 9mm. The lock ring is 6.4mm at the thickest so that plus the board height which is 1.5mm will give you 7.9 total thickness above the top of the cold end. So from the top of our mount to the top of the board SHOULD be 10.5mm. Do these number help? Tomorrow my extra board comes in and I can mount it and send some pics if needed.

travelphotog wrote:

TwoTone wrote:

travelphotog wrote:Here is the first prototype mount for the HE280 calibration board for the 713maker mounts. 4 grams alone and only 8 grams with screws. It replaces the standard lock ring and will be a standard option with all kits shortly. We are sending out a few test adaptors shortly and should have them on the site by Monday of this next week. We might still make a few changes to the design, but we have a great start already. For those who have already bought our kits, the rings will be listed in our store for around $5-$8 and we can offer first class mail shipping to save on such a small part.2016-09-20 20.28.14.jpg2016-09-20 20.27.24.jpg2016-09-20 20.27.04.jpg2016-09-20 20.25.14.jpg2016-09-20 20.25.01.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.43.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.25.jpg2016-09-20 20.24.02.jpg

Can you give me the total height from the top of that Prometheus heatsink to the top of the board please.

I'm asking because we have the Prometheus multi filament kit coming and I'm trying to figure out if that board with your lock ring will fit under the Y junction block of the kit.

Thanks

I am not 100% sure where it is you are seeking to measure from. I can tell you that from the top of the mount to the bottom of the board is 9mm. The lock ring is 6.4mm at the thickest so that plus the board height which is 1.5mm will give you 7.9 total thickness above the top of the cold end. So from the top of our mount to the top of the board SHOULD be 10.5mm. Do these number help? Tomorrow my extra board comes in and I can mount it and send some pics if needed.

Thanks, I think that work, they said it's 15.5 mm to the bottom of the Y block from the top of the cold end.

Xenocrates wrote:

Ail wrote:That is looking sweet! I will definitely be ordering a full setup for the HE280. Just got to decide on color

Couple of questions on the hotend. Any issues with just using an m3 threaded thermistor in the far hole? I modded my original hot end to use the threaded one so I would just get another or reuse that one.

I picked up the wire whip but is it not possible to just use the stock v2 wiring with some modifications? I seen mention of this earlier in the thread but no follow up / answer. Just looking for the easiest option for swapping this onto my v2.

Thanks!

I'm not entirely sure what hotend you're referring to, but generally you should have too many issues with that so long as the hotend is tapped, or can be tapped.
Should be fine. Just add the connector and the correct wires to play nice with it. However, I would probably use the wire whip since you've ordered it, and then drill a hole to accept it. It's not like I haven't drilled plenty of holes in my melamine so far.

I picked up the HE280 for my Max v2. The instructions show an m3 screw and washer holding the thermistor in the he280. Was wondering if just using a threaded thermistor in that hole would be okay, its further out on the block so did not know if that would be an issue or not for accuracy.

Ail wrote:

Xenocrates wrote:

Ail wrote:That is looking sweet! I will definitely be ordering a full setup for the HE280. Just got to decide on color

Couple of questions on the hotend. Any issues with just using an m3 threaded thermistor in the far hole? I modded my original hot end to use the threaded one so I would just get another or reuse that one.

I picked up the wire whip but is it not possible to just use the stock v2 wiring with some modifications? I seen mention of this earlier in the thread but no follow up / answer. Just looking for the easiest option for swapping this onto my v2.

Thanks!

I'm not entirely sure what hotend you're referring to, but generally you should have too many issues with that so long as the hotend is tapped, or can be tapped.
Should be fine. Just add the connector and the correct wires to play nice with it. However, I would probably use the wire whip since you've ordered it, and then drill a hole to accept it. It's not like I haven't drilled plenty of holes in my melamine so far.

I picked up the HE280 for my Max v2. The instructions show an m3 screw and washer holding the thermistor in the he280. Was wondering if just using a threaded thermistor in that hole would be okay, its further out on the block so did not know if that would be an issue or not for accuracy.

Shouldn't be a problem, I've used the threaded thermistor on both my stock hot end and the E3D we upgraded to.
I used Arctic Silver to fill the air gap if the hole is deeper than the thermistor. Also make sure you have the thermistor type set corectly.

TwoTone wrote:

Ail wrote:I picked up the HE280 for my Max v2. The instructions show an m3 screw and washer holding the thermistor in the he280. Was wondering if just using a threaded thermistor in that hole would be okay, its further out on the block so did not know if that would be an issue or not for accuracy.

Shouldn't be a problem, I've used the threaded thermistor on both my stock hot end and the E3D we upgraded to.
I used Arctic Silver to fill the air gap if the hole is deeper than the thermistor. Also make sure you have the thermistor type set corectly.

Thanks I know I have some thermal paste around here some place, the hole is definitely deeper. I took a look at the wiring today to figure out how to make the switch.

Current Max v2 Rambo Hot End wiring
Heat 0 : - +
Fan 0 : - +
Heat 1 : - +
Therm 0 : 1 2

Max v3 Rambo Wiring
Heat 0 : - +
Fan 0 : -
PS-ON : 1
I2C : 3 4
Therm 0 : 1 2

Here is where I am kind of stuck, I picked up the wiring whip but at this point would it not be better to just use the existing wire to avoid a bunch of splicing. I thought I was getting enough length to run the cables all the way back to the bottom but that is not the case. Should I just get the 8 pin connection and work with what I have? Anyone that has done the swap have an opinion?

This would be the swap
Fan 0 : - + |SWAP| Fan 0 : - || PS-ON : 1
Heat 1 : - + |SWAP| I2C : 4 3

Final v2 to v3
Heat 0 : - +
Fan 0 : -
PS-ON : 1
I2C : 4 3
Therm 0 : 1 2

Not sure if there would be a potential for interference or anything like that, I don't see much of a difference but maybe I am missing something completely.

Thanks!

well I'm a dumbass, there is already an instruction set for the upgrade Will probably just splice since I bought the wire but could cannibalize it for the connecters as well, will see.

On my v2 I used the new pre-made harness to platform and spliced into existing wiring up top, then was able to re-arrange existing wires down at rambo.

I used a wiring block up top from Yellow Jacket Concepts to make it super easy...
www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewitem.php?productid=25
No soldering required

bvandiepenbos wrote:On my v2 I used the new pre-made harness to platform and spliced into existing wiring up top, then was able to re-arrange existing wires down at rambo.

I used a wiring block up top from Yellow Jacket Concepts to make it super easy...
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=25
No soldering required

Nice! I like that option vs splicing, make a change down the road nicer too. Thanks!

bvandiepenbos wrote:On my v2 I used the new pre-made harness to platform and spliced into existing wiring up top, then was able to re-arrange existing wires down at rambo.

I used a wiring block up top from Yellow Jacket Concepts to make it super easy...
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=25
No soldering required

Yes, I ordered one too.... Thought about splicing wires or using a screw in terminal blocks, but this beats all of that

International postage is a killer though

U.S. Water Rockets wrote:Forget the wiring.... I want to know when you're going to sell that effector platform and those sexy ball cup carbon fiber end tips!!!

Custom Ball-cup rod ends now available for order,
Retro-fit kit to convert your existing Trick Laser CF arms to ball-cup ends
http://www.tricklaser.com/Ball-Cup-Rod- ... -RETRO.htm
Complete 300mm carbon fiber tube arm sets with the new ball-cup rod ends.
http://www.tricklaser.com/Carbon-Fiber- ... -BC300.htm
These Ball-cup rod ends are designed by us, specifically for delta printers. We have the ends precision injection molded exclusively for us. They are made from super strong and stiff glass fiber reinforced PBT plastic.

Also aluminum platforms for ball joints
http://www.tricklaser.com/Aluminum-plat ... ALU-BJ.htm

And soon to be released Trick Truck X Mini Carriages for ball joints.

travelphotog wrote:Here is the first prototype mount for the HE280 calibration board for the 713maker mounts. 4 grams alone and only 8 grams with screws. It replaces the standard lock ring and will be a standard option with all kits shortly. We are sending out a few test adaptors shortly and should have them on the site by Monday of this next week. We might still make a few changes to the design, but we have a great start already. For those who have already bought our kits, the rings will be listed in our store for around $5-$8 and we can offer first class mail shipping to save on such a small part.2016-09-20 20.28.14.jpg

Can you see a place to order it (with screws). All I get is just the plate and no where to order plate and screw set. Thanks.. Soon as I can order plate and screws, I will... Allready have a PCB on the way!

crocky wrote:

travelphotog wrote:Here is the first prototype mount for the HE280 calibration board for the 713maker mounts. 4 grams alone and only 8 grams with screws. It replaces the standard lock ring and will be a standard option with all kits shortly. We are sending out a few test adaptors shortly and should have them on the site by Monday of this next week. We might still make a few changes to the design, but we have a great start already. For those who have already bought our kits, the rings will be listed in our store for around $5-$8 and we can offer first class mail shipping to save on such a small part.2016-09-20 20.28.14.jpg

Can you see a place to order it (with screws). All I get is just the plate and no where to order plate and screw set. Thanks.. Soon as I can order plate and screws, I will... Allready have a PCB on the way!

It will come will the needed screws in the kit or when ordered solo. We add 3 nylon washers and the needed screws to attach the board to the adaptor, one screw is also nylon to prevent a short on the board at the LED contacts either side of one of the mounting screws SeemeCNC uses.

i got one crocky, and it includes everything you need. it's nicely made...

Qdeathstar wrote:i got one crocky, and it includes everything you need. it's nicely made...

Yeah, good to know.... I ordered one today, be a few weeks but I am not in a hurry...

If you look in the lounge for a topic "weekend plans" I got pictures.

crocky wrote:

bvandiepenbos wrote:On my v2 I used the new pre-made harness to platform and spliced into existing wiring up top, then was able to re-arrange existing wires down at rambo.

I used a wiring block up top from Yellow Jacket Concepts to make it super easy...
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=25
No soldering required

Yes, I ordered one too.... Thought about splicing wires or using a screw in terminal blocks, but this beats all of that

International postage is a killer though

Just got delivered today now just few more bits to come....

We did the top mount method using an e3D v6 hotend. Works wonders! The wiring needs to be a little longer to bend around the extruder if you have an Airstruder setup.