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Could someone post the enclosure_joint as an STL?

bubbasnow wrote:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:213632

files are here, working on a latch for the door

Has the latch been completed and if so could you post it as an STL, I did not see it on Thingiverse.

so what i did was drill a 1/2" hole every 6" down the side, printed 3 arms, 4 pair of latch, 6 round pin, and 4 square pin.

im lazy ill add it to thingiverse soon

Could you post the STL for the post that you posted in SolidWorks format? Pretty Please!

everyone's height is different, what would you like the joint length to be?

bubbasnow wrote:everyone's height is different, what would you like the joint length to be?

Whatever you used on yours would be fine, if you don't mind. I realize that the height may not be perfect
but that is fine. It will fit well enough to suit my needs and again I thank you for developing all this and
then sharing it with the public. You could have created kits and made some sort of profit. The look alone
would have made people buy the kit. I am glad that you chose the open source route.

To make this as a kit perhaps plastic casting would be a good option. If anyone was considering that, that is .

grabredemeyer wrote:To make this as a kit perhaps plastic casting would be a good option. If anyone was considering that, that is .

Or laser cut boards for the joints and corners.

alrighty here it is 9in tall, i used 3 per edge

Thank you for posting it!

I just realized that OpenBeam would be an excellent alternative to printing all the pieces...

All you would need to print would be mounts for the extrusions to the base. OpenBeam is designed to handle standard 3mm (1/8") acrylic.

http://www.amazon.com/6-Pack-Extrusions ... s=openbeam

6M would be more than enough for 1 machine...

i love tslot, its just so handy! if you purchase the nuts/bolts and brackets that is where the cost can add up..but with the max you can make your own

But with Openbeam, you're talking about $1/corner/joint. Much cheaper than 80/20 or others.

It's likely about the same in cost of filament for brackets/joints - if not cheaper - and quicker and more precise.

cope413 wrote:But with Openbeam, you're talking about $1/corner/joint. Much cheaper than 80/20 or others.

It's likely about the same in cost of filament for brackets/joints - if not cheaper - and quicker and more precise.

And one heck of a lot stronger.

cope413 wrote:I just realized that OpenBeam would be an excellent alternative to printing all the pieces...

All you would need to print would be mounts for the extrusions to the base. OpenBeam is designed to handle standard 3mm (1/8") acrylic.

6M would be more than enough for 1 machine...

The only caveat is that a six-sided design wouldn't work neatly for slotting in the panels, since the OpenBeam slots are at right angles. I'm playing around with an idea for a rectangular enclosure. Front side with the door would be between the X/Y arms above the LCD, and after loading the table outline into Sketchup, it's looking like a box with inner dimensions around 450mm width and 425mm depth. That's a fair amount of overhang, though, so I'm hesitant on how well a printed part would hold up the OpenBeam stick.

Any other thoughts?

I'm a complete CAD n00b, so this is my poor attempt at an OpenBeam bracket. It's probably overengineered, since I don't have much experience with how rigid a big printed part can be.

The idea I was going for was using a small diagonal of OpenBeam to attach to the Max's tabletop, then support a square base and mount vertical standards to it. The one other part you'd need to print is a 90 degree bracket, which OpenBeam has up on Thingiverse already.

Base file was done in FreeCad if anyone else wants to hack around with it.

EDIT: went to version 3 of my file. A square bracket was a dumb idea. Now triangular so it won't collide with the pillar. Genius. I haz it.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/W22makV.png[/img]

I have yet to buy my printer but after reading the forums I've thought about making an enclosure as one of my first projects. So Here are my thoughts after mulling over several different designs. I want something strong and custom but matching the overall design of the printer. I'm thinking of using modified Kossel Mini Top/bottom vertexes filling in motor mount and pulley mounts being shaved and maybe using 2525 extrusion to connect top and bottom vertexes. For the two of sides of the enclosure attaching 1/8th inch plexiglass making a V for the third side either making a hinged door or attaching with magnets for fast access. I would like to make it the full height of the Max V2and topping with plexiglass on top cover using thumb screws to secure to printer and cutting triangle about a half inch in from thumb screw to allow for spool mount.

JD79 wrote:I have yet to buy my printer but after reading the forums I've thought about making an enclosure as one of my first projects. So Here are my thoughts after mulling over several different designs. I want something strong and custom but matching the overall design of the printer. I'm thinking of using modified Kossel Mini Top/bottom vertexes filling in motor mount and pulley mounts being shaved and maybe using 2525 extrusion to connect top and bottom vertexes. For the two of sides of the enclosure attaching 1/8th inch plexiglass making a V for the third side either making a hinged door or attaching with magnets for fast access. I would like to make it the full height of the Max V2and topping with plexiglass on top cover using thumb screws to secure to printer and cutting triangle about a half inch in from thumb screw to allow for spool mount.

Sounds like a great plan and we would love to see pictures of it when its completed.

Does anyone have the overall dimensions of the new V2? Looking mainly for height of new V2 to top cover not including spool holder and front from LCD to back of machine.

Very nice! I had surrounded mine with lexan held together by velcro. My printer is by a window in my very drafty 200 year old house, so it needs something. But, my way is really ugly, (not to mention unstable) Mind if I copy you?

-sandy

sandy wrote:Very nice! I had surrounded mine with lexan held together by velcro. My printer is by a window in my very drafty 200 year old house, so it needs something. But, my way is really ugly, (not to mention unstable) Mind if I copy you?

-sandy

If you mean my idea feel free to. I was just found some extrusion to help streamline my design it is HFS60A5-20 with a few brackets and some feet it will be ready for plexiglass. It is angled at 60 degrees so 3 will make a great triangle enclosure.

http://us.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/11 ... 0A5-20-920

JD

Will this fit on a v2 Max? I think the bottom is fine just not sure about the top.

mcgragger wrote:Will this fit on a v2 Max? I think the bottom is fine just not sure about the top.

you might have to redesign the top parts

Bubba! Awesome project you have here. Any chance you could export the files to sketchup?

Would somebody mind posting some instruction on how to put this together? I get the impression that the 2-part plates link together around the beams, and you need 2 of the joints per side. Where does the hinge go? does this just attach to the joints on whatever side you want a door on? I'm sure it's obvious after you print it out, but I need to make some mods based on materials I have on hand. Also, I'm not exactly sure where I'm measuring from to determine the joint length.

Unfortunately I jumped the gun on choosing enclosures and went out to buy some cheap flexible plastic before I saw this thread. Looking at the models, it seems that the structure is supported by the stiff plexiglass, but I'm going to need to make that work the other way around with the frame supporting my plastic. do you think that extending the slots of the top to drill holes in will support a couple feet2 of plastic, or do you think it will split the layers after hanging there for a while?

Also, I'm having some software issues since I'm brand new to the design world. I've been using sketchup exclusively, and this is the first time I'm printing out someone else's work.
I don't have solid works, so I imported the joint to sketchup, but it is now a component that I can't modify. can you "uncomponent"?
Are .stl files modifiable? what software can I use to add attachments for my flexible plastic?

carter wrote:
I don't have solid works, so I imported the joint to sketchup, but it is now a component that I can't modify. can you "uncomponent"?

Dont think you can uncomponent it but you can edit the component by right clicking and edit component. Hope that helps.