Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

atoff wrote:

bubbasnow wrote:

careful, i purchased one of these from amazon and after only 20 minutes of use it was stuck in the on position....very scary!

You know, I've been worried about that! I've been reading reviews mentioning the same thing. I'm starting to feel like I should just run it directly through the Rambo. Do you have any suggestions on what to do? I'm not able to find a better SSR. If I ran it straight through the Rambo... do I need to make any changes?

ive been running 24 through the rambo for months now and hundreds of print hours. make sure you wire the main power connector correctly. and you will have to update the main blade to 20amp

bubbasnow wrote:

ive been running 24 through the rambo for months now and hundreds of print hours. make sure you wire the main power connector correctly. and you will have to update the main blade to 20amp

Seems simple enough. Swap the 15A fuse with 20A, 24V only on the Heat Bed input, Output would be the same. Are you using the stock connectors and wires?

A little worried about this pic:

[img]http://forum.seemecnc.com/download/file.php?id=3813&t=1[/img]

this picture is a prime example of excess heat at the connector... it could have been a stray wire shorting, or a bad connection.. make sure your wires can handle the current you will be passing and ensure proper connections and you will be fine.

bubbasnow wrote:this picture is a prime example of excess heat at the connector... it could have been a stray wire shorting, or a bad connection.. make sure your wires can handle the current you will be passing and ensure proper connections and you will be fine.

Thanks... I think I'll try straight to it then. I don't like what I've been reading with these cheap SSR's. I'll try to get some 12AWG silicone wire for both inputs and outs.

Okay, I'm stuck... I just keep wasting money on things that don't work. I went out and overpaid for 1m of 12AWG wire... however, it won't fit under the Onyx bed. First of all, the V2 kit has a smaller middle hole, which is okay, because there's a larger one a few inches away that doesn't seem to be used for anything, so I can route there... BUT, the white spacers on the V2 are also thinner. About half as thick as the pics I've seen for the V1, so that the wire is about a couple of mm too thick to fit. Not sure where to go from here.

atoff wrote:Okay, I'm stuck... I just keep wasting money on things that don't work. I went out and overpaid for 1m of 12AWG wire... however, it won't fit under the Onyx bed. First of all, the V2 kit has a smaller middle hole, which is okay, because there's a larger one a few inches away that doesn't seem to be used for anything, so I can route there... BUT, the white spacers on the V2 are also thinner. About half as thick as the pics I've seen for the V1, so that the wire is about a couple of mm too thick to fit. Not sure where to go from here.

DRILL!!!

bubbasnow wrote:
DRILL!!!

lol Drill where??? There's nowhere to drill... the supports are all in the way. Not to mention, even if I could find a tiny space, the hole and thick (12AWG) ugly red and black wires would be visible. But really, there's just nowhere to even drill. Either there's supports, or motors.

There are guys that have cut out a slot in the snowflake to accommodate the thickness of the wire.

Tinyhead wrote:There are guys that have cut out a slot in the snowflake to accommodate the thickness of the wire.

Unfortunately, I don't have those kind of tools, or that kind of skill.

Edit: Also, I worry that that would affect the level is some way... if even very slightly.

Okay, I think I've found a spot to drill! Is there any reason I can't turn the bed around in this orientation?

[img]http://i.imgur.com/wbf0R9s.jpg[/img]

Any reason I MUST have the LED towards the Z axis?

I figure I could drill two small holes directly underneath the pads where the wires are soldered. I looked through the entire installation guide and couldn't find anything that would disrupt the wires. Looks like that's just the side panel. So as long as there's no issue with rotating the bed in that orientation I should be good to go.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/sy4fpIn.jpg[/img]

And now my build comes to a halt while I wait for yet another response from SeeMe. My filament tensioner appears damaged. Another week or two having to wait for parts.

Post a photo of the part please. I'm curious to see what a damaged one looks like.

g.

geneb wrote:Post a photo of the part please. I'm curious to see what a damaged one looks like.

g.

Sure, I've sent the pics to SeeMe... just waiting to hear back.

Just as a note, the part is "workable," it just seems wobbly so-to-speak. When I press the clip in, the bearing sort of jumps up and will misalign itself with the hobbed gear... this being my first printer build, I don't know if it's normal, but from the pics I've seen, it doesn't look like the plastic should be bent the way it is. I think it's the bend in the plastic that's causing the piece from staying put. I tried taking it apart to re-seat it, but it didn't make a difference... the force from the spring, causes it to keep pushing upwards.

But in any case, if this is normal, I'll go ahead and use it, please let me know... I'm anxious to get it working. And though I didn't take pics of it, I did try bolting it down to the motor.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/kUFo3qG.jpg[/img]

[img]http://i.imgur.com/UKr4xBS.jpg[/img]

In the meantime, I tidied up the PSU by desoldering all of the unnecessary wires. I kept one molex connector just in case I wanted to power something else in the future (LED's or whatnot).

[img]http://i.imgur.com/4RSEyzl.jpg[/img]

There is something with the way your ezstruder is assembled that does not match the one that I have that is assembled correctly.
I can't define what the assembly error is with the angles of your photos but there is a mis-assembly of the Ez-struder. Perhaps a
picture from the top of the clear plastic part would help me to determine what is wrong.

Eaglezsoar wrote:There is something with the way your ezstruder is assembled that does not match the one that I have that is assembled correctly.
I can't define what the assembly error is with the angles of your photos but there is a mis-assembly of the Ez-struder. Perhaps a
picture from the top of the clear plastic part would help me to determine what is wrong.

Yeah, I was trying to get an angle that showed the bend and the inside. I've actually assembled it all, so I can test to see if it'll work (I have a feeling it's going to take a while to hear back from support), so don't have a pic of the top, but here's one I had taken that shows the bottom/inside a little better.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/XfjG3zt.jpg[/img]

But like I said, I did take the casing off as well as the arm and spring, which is really all there is to it.

Now that I have it all together, it looks a little better, I don't see as large a gap / bend, but it does still jump a bit out of alignment.

I've received my 24V power supply today, but I think I'll first run it stock. I think it's smarter to make sure everything's working normally before throwing in something new. The only "mods" I've made so far are adding the dampers to the motors, using 12AWG wiring for the Onyx bed, and cleaning up the PSU (I did check the voltages to make sure it was performing normally).

atoff wrote:These are the ones I ordered. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-16-17-Step ... 1158026166
They're the same as what Astroboy is selling (Astrosyn Dampers)... figured I'd get it faster if I just ordered from Ebay. Says I'll get them on or before Sat (12th).

You would get them the same time if you bought them from me. I'm that eBay seller

My build is progressing slowly... A couple hours at a time. I noticed my extruder has the same issue as Atoff's. Not quite as severe, but the clear cover is certainly bent and doesn't fit properly. It looks as if everything will still work, but I'm not sure what the cause is, just a bad plastic part, or a spring or something putting more torque on the cover than the material can handle... Or just a misaligned assembly. I hope to get it running at some point this weekend, so I'll find out soon enough...

-David

whaleboy wrote:My build is progressing slowly... A couple hours at a time. I noticed my extruder has the same issue as Atoff's. Not quite as severe, but the clear cover is certainly bent and doesn't fit properly. It looks as if everything will still work, but I'm not sure what the cause is, just a bad plastic part, or a spring or something putting more torque on the cover than the material can handle... Or just a misaligned assembly. I hope to get it running at some point this weekend, so I'll find out soon enough...

-David

I just had a look at my one.. Same thing but no as severe as atoff's

whaleboy wrote:My build is progressing slowly... A couple hours at a time. I noticed my extruder has the same issue as Atoff's. Not quite as severe, but the clear cover is certainly bent and doesn't fit properly. It looks as if everything will still work, but I'm not sure what the cause is, just a bad plastic part, or a spring or something putting more torque on the cover than the material can handle... Or just a misaligned assembly. I hope to get it running at some point this weekend, so I'll find out soon enough...

-David

I've been moving very slowly myself. A lot of it had to do with waiting for parts, there were also a few snags with trying to deal with the super thick 12 AWG wires for the heatbed. I still don't like how that was done. I couldn't fit the 12AWG wires in the terminal block either, so had to crimp 3 16AWG wires using a butt connector with the 12AWG, then stuff the 3 16AWG wires into the terminal. There's such little clearance above the rambo board, that it's just a mess. I can see how easy it would be to cause a short. There's so much tension on the wires that there's a real possibility of them popping out. I want to find a decent quality SSR, but at $90 a piece, it's just a little insane.

Anyway, the cover... yeah, it looks like it's just warped plastic. It doesn't have anything to do with the spring, but mine kind of shifts out of place when pressing the lever. I did hear back from John from SeeMe... just told me that there should be some play in it. Told him I'd test it when all is up and running... which should be very soon.

Few irritating things regarding the build, but really, it's only because of the upgrades. The most frustrating was trying to use the 12AWG wire, as it's a mess on both ends.

Since you're already messing the the extruder, I take it you've already installed your dampers? I ended up measuring the distance that the gear needed to be moved up with calipers. Turned out to be 5.80mm (if memory serves), and it aligned perfectly with the bearings using that measurement.

astroboy907 wrote:

atoff wrote:These are the ones I ordered. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEMA-16-17-Step ... 1158026166
They're the same as what Astroboy is selling (Astrosyn Dampers)... figured I'd get it faster if I just ordered from Ebay. Says I'll get them on or before Sat (12th).

You would get them the same time if you bought them from me. I'm that eBay seller

I kind of had a feeling you were the seller. And thanks, I'm grateful that you're making them available to us in the U.S.

I completed my build about a week ago. My extruder feeder looks about like Atoff's does and I did question it but decided to take a leap of faith and installed it and its working just fine.

geneb thank you so much for your awesome assembly guide.

wire wrote:I completed my build about a week ago. My extruder feeder looks about like Atoff's does and I did question it but decided to take a leap of faith and installed it and its working just fine.

geneb thank you so much for your awesome assembly guide.

Have you made any prints yet and if so, how are they looking?

I finished my build this morning. Just going through the calibrations.

I'm a little bit confused by this part of the instructions:

In order to make sure that each axis is higher than the three points listed above, I want you to position the machine using these commands: G28 G0 Z5 X0 Y90 F3500 Click the “Home All” icon on the manual control panel and then stick a sheet of paper under the nozzle, just like you did when setting the Z height. Approach the zero point 1mm at a time by clicking on the down arrow for the Z axis. If you pinch the sheet of paper really hard before you hit the zero height point, use a #2 Philips screwdriver to turn the end stop adjustment screw two full turns to the right. Perform the same check on the other axes by issuing G28 followed by G0 Z5 X77.94 Y-45 F3500 and G0 Z5 X-77.94 Y-45 F3500. You're not after accuracy at this point, you just want to get the nozzle from pressing into the build plate.

Why would I click "Home All" after running that first command? It would just take me back to the start position. I believe, from just thinking logically, that I'm supposed to run the command, THEN lower the Z height 1mm at a time.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

wire wrote:I completed my build about a week ago. My extruder feeder looks about like Atoff's does and I did question it but decided to take a leap of faith and installed it and its working just fine.

geneb thank you so much for your awesome assembly guide.

Have you made any prints yet and if so, how are they looking?

I have printed in both ABS & PLA and both look excellent. This is a excellent machine. I'm not new to this though no expert by a long shot. Follow the guide and it will work very well. This machine is very easy to calibrate compared to other formats.

atoff wrote:I finished my build this morning. Just going through the calibrations.

I'm a little bit confused by this part of the instructions:

In order to make sure that each axis is higher than the three points listed above, I want you to position the machine using these commands: G28 G0 Z5 X0 Y90 F3500 Click the “Home All” icon on the manual control panel and then stick a sheet of paper under the nozzle, just like you did when setting the Z height. Approach the zero point 1mm at a time by clicking on the down arrow for the Z axis. If you pinch the sheet of paper really hard before you hit the zero height point, use a #2 Philips screwdriver to turn the end stop adjustment screw two full turns to the right. Perform the same check on the other axes by issuing G28 followed by G0 Z5 X77.94 Y-45 F3500 and G0 Z5 X-77.94 Y-45 F3500. You're not after accuracy at this point, you just want to get the nozzle from pressing into the build plate.

Why would I click "Home All" after running that first command? It would just take me back to the start position. I believe, from just thinking logically, that I'm supposed to run the command, THEN lower the Z height 1mm at a time.

Yes but when you re-Home it sends it back to the start position with the latest adjustment. I would have to check on mine but till it goes back to home is that change written to the EEPROM table? I know when calibrating a Hadron Ord Bot that till the change is saved then it isn't. You may want to read ahead slightly in the manual because the reason your aren't going for accuracy is because you'll be re-adjusting all the axis when you calibrate to the center of the build plate. Now is also a good time to remember the key commands for those scripts because they will need to be used multiple times unless you get lucky and then it is "strongly recommend you go buy a lottery ticket"

I was very close to lucky!! But no, a little too snug. I hope it's okay that I have the bed and hotend heated (55c/190c) while doing the calibration... never instructed to turn them back on, but I'm assuming.