Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

so im using cambam to produce my codes. i turn off the laser based on height paths. for example my laser on is M206 P255 and i slide that code in every time Z100 occurs. and then i put a M206 P0 laser off code every time the tool lifts up to travel at Z105.

Ok, I understand. By the way, I ran your program in Linux Mint 17. Since when did Mint run .exe's straight out of the box? Sweet!

updated with the option to place the laser on/off above or below the target

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByTdMD ... sp=sharing

I couldn't even get the laser to come on or turn off at the right time let alone during move operations. It always came on or turned off well before it was supposed to. Today I realized that I had an old version of Marlin in my RepRap that did not support the M400 dwell command. I re-flashed the Arduino with an updated version and now the basic on-off function works great. So far I've just left the laser on the entire time, using a move speed of 130mm to zip across the target while I get to next burn point. This poor man's method leaves a small discoloration but it will have to make do until I can figure the out the on-off-during-moves thing. I use Slicr3 which does not use G0 and to my knowledge, Marlin treats a G0 like a G1 anyway. I'll have to take a look at Bubbasnow's code but it looks like it takes advantage of a Z height change during a move. My machine does not do that so I'll need another hook.

I also experimented with Heathenx's Inkscape Gcode extension. I was able to get a Gcode file out of it but got frustrated trying to figure out how to draw in Inkscape so I've set it aside for the time being. Thanks for all L Cheapo posts everyone. This forum has become a main repository for info. It would have taken me far longer to get the L Cheapo going without all of the forum help.

sherpa_chris wrote:I couldn't even get the laser to come on or turn off at the right time let alone during move operations. It always came on or turned off well before it was supposed to. Today I realized that I had an old version of Marlin in my RepRap that did not support the M400 dwell command. I re-flashed the Arduino with an updated version and now the basic on-off function works great. So far I've just left the laser on the entire time, using a move speed of 130mm to zip across the target while I get to next burn point. This poor man's method leaves a small discoloration but it will have to make do until I can figure the out the on-off-during-moves thing. I use Slicr3 which does not use G0 and to my knowledge, Marlin treats a G0 like a G1 anyway. I'll have to take a look at Bubbasnow's code but it looks like it takes advantage of a Z height change during a move. My machine does not do that so I'll need another hook.

I also experimented with Heathenx's Inkscape Gcode extension. I was able to get a Gcode file out of it but got frustrated trying to figure out how to draw in Inkscape so I've set it aside for the time being. Thanks for all L Cheapo posts everyone. This forum has become a main repository for info. It would have taken me far longer to get the L Cheapo going without all of the forum help.

If Inkscape is awkward for you then there is always the free Draftsight. Its and AutoCAD clone. You can export your work to svg format...Inkscape's native file format.

I too have the same problem as you regarding slic3r. However, I speed the travel moves up to 300mm/s. That helps a little but it doesn't fix the problem. I agree with Jesse though. When engraving solid fills, slic3r does a better job.

u guys should try the cambam free

Yeah, I was meaning to try it yesterday at work but 4 meetings took up my whole day. Havent even downloaded it yet. Is there a config file that we need to import to get us started quicker? I take it that the gcode is reprap compatible?

you will have to do some post process for the laser, but that's all configurable.

Had a wood box laying around

Looks awesome!

Btw, I downloaded and installed CamBam (Free) to try out. So far I've managed to export some gcode but I haven't sent anything to the laser yet (Rostock is tied up with some 3D printing jobs). I take it CamBam is writing out Mach3 flavored gcode, correct? Looks like I'll have to do some manual text editor work on the gcode to tidy it up.

look on the system tab you might be able to achieve most of this automatically

I'm wondering if I could use my full blown GibbsCam and just tell it that it is cutting (engraving) with a .005" end mill or something...?

At least the paths are super controllable and G-code edits would be relatively minor.

They want $500 to write a custom post .

For that matter how about any of you guys using Mach3?

I have use for the laser cutting. I may order one soon. It would be nice to get one with a little more power. Any suggestions?

Mark

More Power:

NDB7A75 445nm Laser Diode In Copper Module W/Leads & 405-G-2 Lens

here:

https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/ho ... 5nm-diodes


Have one at home, but not installed yet. You can drive it at more than 4amps with good cooling....

Delta Zee Solutions wrote:I'm wondering if I could use my full blown GibbsCam and just tell it that it is cutting (engraving) with a .005" end mill or something...?

At least the paths are super controllable and G-code edits would be relatively minor.

They want $500 to write a custom post .

For that matter how about any of you guys using Mach3?

I have use for the laser cutting. I may order one soon. It would be nice to get one with a little more power. Any suggestions?

Mark

I don't have a laser, but I have been using sheetcam for my litlle cnc mill. It started out as a cam program for plasma cutting, and it has laser support. http://www.sheetcam.com/features/plasma

Mac and Critical,
good to know and I bookmarked them. looking forward to see how yours come out.

Thanks!
Mark

Here's a program that could be useful for making laser-cut-able 3d models.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dN4LNAsGdB0[/youtube]

Free: http://flatfitfab.com/

Thanks for the link to the software Jesse!

So I finally found some time to make that magnetic mount that I was kicking around. Seems to work rather well. It's much easier for me to screw the single magnetic top plate to the underside of the effector. The rest of the mount just snaps into place afterward. The mount is keyed so it won't twist. Not sure if twisting would ever happen but under fast travel moves I suppose it might be a possibility. Anyway, I have enough magnetic strength on this thing that Magneto would be proud. If you are using my mount from repables (http://repables.com/r/370) then you won't need that top plate. You'll need this magnetic version a long with the effector mounting plate.

I purchased the magnets from ebay. 50 of them for about $10. A few left over for future projects. http://is.gd/RkXSCd

By the way, that white stuff on my printed parts is super glue residue. The magnets where glued into place. Be sure to get the polarity right before gluing.

Hello, everyone. New owner of a L-Cheapo, here. Mine just came in yesterday. I will be mounting it onto my solidoodle this weekend. This thread finalized my decision to purchase this laser. Thanks for all the information.

Randavian wrote:Hello, everyone. New owner of a L-Cheapo, here. Mine just came in yesterday. I will be mounting it onto my solidoodle this weekend. This thread finalized my decision to purchase this laser. Thanks for all the information.

Hopefully you'll enjoy using it. I have to say that it does come in handy for things. Eventually, I'd like to step up into something stronger. If I could get thru 1/4" acrylic without much effort and time then I'd do kartwheels.

heathenx wrote: Hopefully you'll enjoy using it. I have to say that it does come in handy for things. Eventually, I'd like to step up into something stronger. If I could get thru 1/4" acrylic without much effort and time then I'd do kartwheels.

So how many passes does it take to cut through 1/4" acrylic? I know it depends on color, etc. but was just wondering what the average was.

Also, what software do you run your printer off of?

I'm not sure how many passses it would take to punch through 1/4". If it takes me 10 to get through 1/8" acrylic then maybe 20 or more for 1/4". I've never tried.

I use Repetier Host via USB to run laser gcode. I've tried Pronterface too. That works the same.

It only takes me one. But then again, I'm using a 45 watt laser.

g.

geneb wrote:It only takes me one. But then again, I'm using a 45 watt laser.

g.

And I am jealous!

Eaglezsoar wrote:

geneb wrote:It only takes me one. But then again, I'm using a 45 watt laser.

g.

And I am jealous!

Yeah, me too. Someday, I'll have a real laser cutter.