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I think the banding in your parts may be due to the bad Heatbed PID tuning. Now how will you know that. Well, Model a small cube 20mm x 20mm x 50mm. start the printing with heated bed On. When first few layer adhere to the bed then stop the heater. Now check the part after completion. If you don't find banding then the Bad Heater PID tuning will be the cause. Then just tune your bed.
By the way very nice parts you are printing.

Windshadow wrote:

Captain Starfish wrote:Those wedges went in really well. So well, in fact, that I snapped 'em trying to dig them out again to remove the plates. Ooops.

I should have checked the parts in a CAD package before just printing them too - no McMaster Carr here in Oz and I'm struggling to find inserts big enough for the holes in those prints. Most are at least a couple mm smaller on the outer diameter.

Dang.

Could you epoxy them in the larger holes?

Good thinking, 99.

Some glass filled epoxy, bung a normal nut up with plasticene so there's somewhere for the bolt to go and it should be golden.

Thanks.

Captain Starfish wrote:
Good thinking, 99.

Some glass filled epoxy, bung a normal nut up with plasticene so there's somewhere for the bolt to go and it should be golden.

The good news is that if it doesn't work, you'll have only missed it by that much.

g.

Geneb, ok, would you believe _this_ much?

Found a local supplier of nutserts that were too big for the holes, but only just. Hot slipped those puppies in and they're tight enough for this application. Cut up my panels and screwed 'em in except for the front and I'm generally pleased.

Now I just have to connect the panels and seal. Our rubber supplier had nothing that would go 120º without looking like rubbish. Current plan is to print some little spacers that hold them straight - without the bowing they're doing at the moment - run some straight masking tape lines, goop up with black silly cone then pull the tape for neat edges. Should be ok I think.

Haven't sussed out the door hinge, seals or catch yet. Wondering if, given thin enough silicone beading, it would form a hinge for me. I doubt it.

Done. Aside from anything else it's keeping the particulates under control a lot better - room is a lot less smelly when I print ABS hot. Which is nice.

Ended up buying a couple of caulking tubes of black silicone, masking the acrylic sheet with tape, running a nice thick bead between each pair of sheets and running down a scraper with the correct angle cut out of an old credit card. The hinge is just a length of gaffer tape on either side spaced out and stuck together between the sheets to form a flexible joiner. The catch at the moment is just a tag of gaffer tape. Rude and crude but it works fine.

Sigh. Effector platform is smacking into the wall and skipping the steppers during the MatterControl 7 point calibration.

Captain Starfish wrote:Sigh. Effector platform is smacking into the wall and skipping the steppers during the MatterControl 7 point calibration.

I've been designing my own enclosure, and I was worried about this happening... Thinking about working on a more compact effector, or at least one that doesn't have fans protruding as far.

What diameter would you say you can reach before hitting the wall?

Jimustanguitar wrote:

Captain Starfish wrote:Sigh. Effector platform is smacking into the wall and skipping the steppers during the MatterControl 7 point calibration.

I've been designing my own enclosure, and I was worried about this happening... Thinking about working on a more compact effector, or at least one that doesn't have fans protruding as far.

What diameter would you say you can reach before hitting the wall?

I haven't built an enclosure yet but when I designed my layer fan Mount, I was trying to keep the fans as close to the effector as possible. This is what I came up with. I'm not really sure what radius I can get to. The only thing that will stop it right now are my towers. I can't go the edge of the platform without hitting the tower.

I'm still using the standard effector platform for the V1 loaded with an E3Dv6, layer fan free at the moment.

It wouldn't have been a problem using GeneB's calibration coordinates. It's not a problem using 3 point calibration in MatterControl. But the 7 point calibration takes the nozzle out pretty close to the edge which means a fair bit of overhang. I'm guessing but I reckon at least an inch overlap. It'd be ok if the triangle walls didn't come in past the edge of the circular base or top but, without vac forming round walls, that would be a monster of an enclosure.

Not just an issue for calibration, this will affect anyone trying to print right out to the edge of the bed too. It hauls your effective bed diameter down to about 230mm.

Might try and see if reducing the max radius on the printer settings fixes it. No spiffy spiral speakers for me without removing the enclosure, I guess.

don't know what you call them in OZ but inn the US we call the Sonotube http://www.menards.com/main/building-ma ... 810306.htm
you can get em from 8" to 48" diameter and the lumberyards sell them by the foot you do not have to buy 12' lengths linked above.
we use them for concrete footing forms and i was thinking that with a 24" dia one and a heat gun i could gravity slump the plastic over one with my heat gun (for paint removal its a lot hotter than a hair dryer) this is so obvious there must be some reason it is not done and i am too dumb to see it.
any way I toss it out for consideration....and discussion.

I assume the cylindrical fish tanks I see in hotel lobbies would be far to expensive but perhaps a second han scratched one could be found reasonably with a bit of searching.

Ah, just use it as a former? Nice. If I was going to go down that road I'd make some battens, tape them to the printer top and bottom discs, lay the printer on its side, heat the sheet in the plastic and slump it that way. But it would take more plastic than I have and I ain't buying more now.

Not to worry, dropping the bed diameter to 230mm got everything fitting where it needs to go and I very, very rarely need to print anything bigger than that.

Windshadow wrote:don't know what you call them in OZ but inn the US we call the Sonotube http://www.menards.com/main/building-ma ... 810306.htm
you can get em from 8" to 48" diameter and the lumberyards sell them by the foot you do not have to buy 12' lengths linked above.
we use them for concrete footing forms and i was thinking that with a 24" dia one and a heat gun i could gravity slump the plastic over one with my heat gun (for paint removal its a lot hotter than a hair dryer) this is so obvious there must be some reason it is not done and i am too dumb to see it.
any way I toss it out for consideration....and discussion.

I assume the cylindrical fish tanks I see in hotel lobbies would be far to expensive but perhaps a second han scratched one could be found reasonably with a bit of searching.

I'm still thinking about building an enclosure for my printer with a sonotube. Have to order one though. None of the places around me carry one big enough. They all stop at 18" tube.

You could try polycarbonate. That can be bended in cold state, and if I'm not mistaken any workshop that can curve metal sheets can also curve PC sheets in the same fashion. That would make a real beautiful enclosure with bended walls like that!

Ah yes. But then we go from "Oooh, I have some leftover acrylic sheet from building a CNC enclosure, let's print up a few brackets and enclose it" to major bucks for materials and subcontractor time. I don't care /that/ much.

My point is more a warning for anyone else looking to use this design: it's simple, it works well, BUT you will lose about 50mm of effective bed diameter.

Barry any large concrete outfit should be able to tell you where the big sizes can be found and might even give you off cuts for free or very little the use of the big ones don't require the full 12 feet every time every job say they have a job that needs say 4 2foot lengths for slab pads for point loads that means a few feet left over from that job that will be just scrap to them.

I'd recommend using the Sonotube AS the enclosure. Get some acrylic and a hairdryer to make a curved door, and then cut an access panel out of the Sonotube. Line it with Mylar, add the fancy curved door you made and you're done.

g.

I kinda like being able to see what's going on.

And, besides, if it's just a cardboard tube HOW THE HELL ARE YOU GOING TO PUT IT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE DINING TABLE AND PRETEND YOU'RE IN THE TARDIS????

geneb wrote:I'd recommend using the Sonotube AS the enclosure. Get some acrylic and a hairdryer to make a curved door, and then cut an access panel out of the Sonotube. Line it with Mylar, add the fancy curved door you made and you're done.

g.

That's kind of what I was going to do. It was going to be a round version of the square enclosure I have now. Windows on 3 sides leaving a 4 inch piece of the tube between them.

Captain Starfish wrote:Ah yes. But then we go from "Oooh, I have some leftover acrylic sheet from building a CNC enclosure, let's print up a few brackets and enclose it" to major bucks for materials and subcontractor time. I don't care /that/ much.

Right... I was just daydreaming... I like good aesthetics, but have a problem with the cost too. That is exactly the reason I still have not finished my enclosure

Did you ever figure out this banding issue? I'm dealing with something similar.