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EL Cuajinais wrote:Ok so now I've tried enough to feel confident in saying html version 1.04 is simply not working for me unless I'm supposed to know the motor step angle, driver micro stepping, belt pitch, and pulley tooth count. All which I have no frickin' idea.

Can you please tell me what I'm supposed to use with a stock RMAX V2 on those fields? Does it have an effect?

More importantly, can you please post the html version 1.01, the one featured in the video, back up so I can use that one instead. I like that it does not mess with the endstop values, and most of all, I like that it works (as demonstrated by the video). I'm really eager to be able to use my entire bed!

EL Cuajinais wrote:Thanks for the info. The first version of the html does not require changing endstop values and works as can be seen on the video. The latest version (1.0.4) does require changing the end stops and I did change them but it didn't work for me.

Micael wrote:Was finally able to do the calibration to 0.01, from what I gathered the reason why I was unable to do a calibration was because of 3 things, the first one was the cheapskates that had been badly assembled, this caused bad movements and the software as far as I could gather couldn't really handle that, which is ofc understandable. Then after I had properly assembled the cheapskates the switch I was using wasn't particularly good as far as repeatability is concerned, so that was giving troubles to the program as well, it was only after fixing the cheapskates and replacing the switch with an FSR again, that I was able to get the software to calibrate, still haven't done a print test, but at this point I see no reason why it shouldn't be working right.

derzaubererer wrote:I just played around with opendact and happened to reset my eeprom quite often and now my stepper motors are getting quite hot i cant find if kysan or the other company all i can read on them is :"Automation Technology Inc, KL 17H248-15-4A" does anyone know the current for these?
and my first layers look like theres too much space between each line and that they dont overlap sometimes even missing out on the edges.(ill post pictures if needed)
BUT I CAN USE 255MM OF MY PLATE NOW!!! i guess this is good:) hopefully someone can help me on this newly appeared problem with the infills not overlapping
also

RollieRowland wrote:

EL Cuajinais wrote:Thanks for the info. The first version of the html does not require changing endstop values and works as can be seen on the video. The latest version (1.0.4) does require changing the end stops and I did change them but it didn't work for me.

The first iteration of the program relied on modifying the delta radii to adjust for the plate - based on the assumed that this was the value that was off - which caused extreme scaling issues in the x and y dimensions. The change in these values can achieve the same results in respect to the bed. However, that version is still on Github if you absolutely want to use it https://github.com/RollieRowland/Delta- ... 6aa15e5dc4

I would recommend not using this though, and instead use the expert mode - this is more than likely your issue.

Also, the step angle/micro stepping/etc. are meant to calculate your steps per millimeter.

Micael wrote:Was finally able to do the calibration to 0.01, from what I gathered the reason why I was unable to do a calibration was because of 3 things, the first one was the cheapskates that had been badly assembled, this caused bad movements and the software as far as I could gather couldn't really handle that, which is ofc understandable. Then after I had properly assembled the cheapskates the switch I was using wasn't particularly good as far as repeatability is concerned, so that was giving troubles to the program as well, it was only after fixing the cheapskates and replacing the switch with an FSR again, that I was able to get the software to calibrate, still haven't done a print test, but at this point I see no reason why it shouldn't be working right.

In your video/log/heightmaps I could not find the source for the error, so I'm glad you figured it out!

derzaubererer wrote:I just played around with opendact and happened to reset my eeprom quite often and now my stepper motors are getting quite hot i cant find if kysan or the other company all i can read on them is :"Automation Technology Inc, KL 17H248-15-4A" does anyone know the current for these?
and my first layers look like theres too much space between each line and that they dont overlap sometimes even missing out on the edges.(ill post pictures if needed)
BUT I CAN USE 255MM OF MY PLATE NOW!!! i guess this is good:) hopefully someone can help me on this newly appeared problem with the infills not overlapping
also

From the configuration h in repetier -> "Values 0-255 (RAMBO 135 = ~0.75A, 185 = ~1A) use 140 for xyz and 160 for the E if using Kysan motors and 175 xyz and 200 if using wantai motors" Also, the temperature for stepper motors is usually not an issue, they tend to be able to handle it well. However, skipping steps will occur at higher temps.

The infill issue you are saying may be that the extruder needs calibrated, as teoman suggested, but it may also just be your first layer height. In which case, this could be changed by lowering the FSR plate offset value and recalibrating, or manually lowering your z height. Although, checking the spm of your extruder is not a bad idea either way.

Micael wrote:The printer assembly manual says the following regarding the current:

"If your kit was shipped with the Kysan or Automation Technology stepper motors (we covered
that earlier, remember?), you're going to need to make a small tweak to the firmware in order to adjust
the current drive that they need.

Click on the tab in the Arduino IDE marked “Configuration.h”. Around line #701, you should
see this text: #define MOTOR_CURRENT {175,175,175,200,0}.
Change that line to this: #define MOTOR_CURRENT {155,155,155,165,0} "

Now I don't know if it's the firmware comment value that is correct, or if it's the assembly manual that is correct, but either way you need to lower the value from default.

EL Cuajinais wrote:Has anyone had success with the 1.0.4 html version? I keep trying and always get similar values which are wildly off. And now I'm put off by version 1.0.1 that was working because I can't have scaling issues. I don't know what else to try since the Steps per mm fields was the only thing left I had to try and now I put in all the correct inputs. Is it possible that the 1.0.4 html had the equations messed up? My diagonal rod jumps from the default 269 to a whopping 276.534 which I take it as a bad sign. Is such a large jump within the expected range. My worst measurement with default values is 1.73.

Ikarius wrote:I used the expert mode to solve this.

EL Cuajinais wrote:

Ikarius wrote:I used the expert mode to solve this.

I appreciate your offer to help, but know that I'm actually using expert mode and it is still not working for me.

KAS wrote:

EL Cuajinais wrote:

Ikarius wrote:I used the expert mode to solve this.

I appreciate your offer to help, but know that I'm actually using expert mode and it is still not working for me.

The only thing that jumps to mind, is your mechanical calibration is off to much for the program to correct. I would go over the entire build with calipers/digital angle finders etc to correct any issues.

Have you checked with a depth gauge; the Onyx to the top plate to make sure you didn't torque one screw more than others? Check the end stop switches to make sure it's not loose. Check the alignment of the tower stop screws to make sure each tower matches. You can have one screw to far out and the tower will sit on the threads vs the screw head.

The easy fix will not be this or any auto calibration. It's best to toss on a dial indicator and start tweaking your kit.

geneb wrote:Five degrees off? How is that even possible?

g.

D-G-C wrote: I am on the way to test the calibration software and red mostly everything what is in this topic. In the meantime a lot!

To use a switch for the hight I have to add some code to the RAMBO in Configuration.h.
Because I didn't do this before I wold like to know where I should add it. Can I add it everywhere or only in some area?

By the way this is a great work. Thank you for that.

#define FEATURE_Z_PROBE true
#define Z_PROBE_PIN 10
#define Z_PROBE_PULLUP true
#define Z_PROBE_ON_HIGH true
#define Z_PROBE_X_OFFSET 0
#define Z_PROBE_Y_OFFSET 0
#define Z_PROBE_WAIT_BEFORE_TEST false
#define Z_PROBE_SPEED 2
#define Z_PROBE_XY_SPEED 150
#define Z_PROBE_HEIGHT 39.91
#define Z_PROBE_START_SCRIPT ""
#define Z_PROBE_FINISHED_SCRIPT ""

Micael wrote:I believe #define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z true also needs to be set to true for it to work (could be wrong).

jmpreuss wrote: I tried to use the html version, regular mode, and after running all night it still didn't converge. I have a theory of what is going on and am open to feedback on whether it is plausible.

So these are the values I put it that I got from my dial indicator.

center =0.00
x= -.01
x opp= -0.27
y= 0.03
y opp = -0.13
z= 0.03
z opp= -0.35

I think what is going on is that my towers are leaning a bit back, do these number support that? If so I do have an issue because the way the top plate is cut (I have a max V1) they are as vertical as they can possibly be, they cannot be leaned in any further.

RollieRowland wrote:

Micael wrote:I believe #define MIN_HARDWARE_ENDSTOP_Z true also needs to be set to true for it to work (could be wrong).

No, this would only be true if you had a minimum endstop on your z tower. This isn't used for probing.

jmpreuss wrote: I tried to use the html version, regular mode, and after running all night it still didn't converge. I have a theory of what is going on and am open to feedback on whether it is plausible.

So these are the values I put it that I got from my dial indicator.

center =0.00
x= -.01
x opp= -0.27
y= 0.03
y opp = -0.13
z= 0.03
z opp= -0.35

I think what is going on is that my towers are leaning a bit back, do these number support that? If so I do have an issue because the way the top plate is cut (I have a max V1) they are as vertical as they can possibly be, they cannot be leaned in any further.

Given these values, the only parameters that are off is your horizontal radius(slightly), your steps per mm(since you are using the manual this is a change in diagonal rod instead - bad scaling), and the delta radius for your Y tower. If this is with your initial settings before calibration then there is no significant mechanical error.