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so here's a quick sketch of adjustable bed height/leveler edit: bed leveler was removed later, it wasn't needed after getting my frame level.

You could certainly do something like that, I have a similar setup on my MendelMax, if the bed itself isn't flat it won't help though.
If the surface is flat but not horizontal, unless it's miles out all that really matters is the head moves in the same plane as the bed.

the build surface bed itself is fairly flat, while not perfect. The whole build surface was even flatter after removing it from the rostock. Verified by comparing to a known flat surface.

95% of the unevenness seems to be coming from the rostock bed mounting platform itself. seems to dip down near the edges of the build platform, which makes sense for it to bow up in the middle when installed.

does anyone else have this problem? maybe this is what some people are experiencing with the onyx not being completely flat? because the uneveness of the mounting surface is causing it to bow up when mounted.

i tried to take photos of what im seeing. this is a straight edge on top of the platform. notice the gaps in the middle versus the outside ends.
edit: discovered later that the laser cut parts were out of alignment. seemecnc sent replacement parts.

That's a bit odd. Mine was dead flat on assembly. I would have thought all of those internal base partitions would prevent it from bowing like that. Are all the screws snugged up? How's the bottom?

mhackney wrote:That's a bit odd. Mine was dead flat on assembly. I would have thought all of those internal base partitions would prevent it from bowing like that. Are all the screws snugged up? How's the bottom?

everything is snug up even with the partitions which troubles me, because that means the laser cut parts aren't square.

hmmm..

And what about the bottom, is it flat?

mhackney wrote:And what about the bottom, is it flat?

there is one spot that is out of place, shown in the picture, it seems this foot peg isn't touching the table, all the others are. its not the table because to matter where i rotate it. It doesn't touch. there seems to be a slight bow here at this spot. I noticed this before during the assembly but i didn't think this mattered. Everything is snug up to the partitions.

Well, i'm lil discouraged that my build has hit a snag but hopefully it can be fixed. Either with a some sanding or shimming or makeshift bed leveler or all..

to keep progress moving along I continued work on the hot end and the ujoints for that area. The assembly of the hot end ujoints actually went a lot faster then the cheap skate ujoints. Seemed like the hot end ujoints were a lot easier to sand and didn't require to much effort. Assembled the hot end tonight. took some pointers from the forum and used teflon tubing to insulate the thermistor and the resistor wires. Then laid a layer of high temp rtv on it. I wasn't going to use the rtv originally but it was about the only thing I could get locally so rtv it was. I'm still trying to get a hold of some resbond 920 to use later.

more work done today getting the rostock arms installed. This required an insane amount of sanding for a smooth fit. I can't tell you how many times I had to install, remove, sand and reinstall to check fit. definitely not installer friendly, I got to a point where I said enough was enough and just left them alone, I still think they could use more sanding for better, smoother motion. I started around noon and 3 hours later here's the result.
The hardware for my adjustable bed leveling idea came in today. Its nice to have mcmastercarr close by. I ordered the parts last night and they were here today.
more to come on this implementation, hopefully fixes my uneven rostock frame.

I got the build plate reinstalled after tweaking the frame a bit and installed adjustable bed leveling. big difference from before and no more high spot in the middle. Everything is nice and flat to start with. here are some photos below.

final adjusting will be when everything is at operating temperature.

cambo3d wrote:I got the build plate reinstalled after tweaking the frame a bit and installed adjustable bed leveling. big difference from before and no more high spot in the middle. Everything is nice and flat to start with. here are some photos below.

final adjusting will be when everything is up to temp.

CIMG1549.JPG

CIMG1550.JPG

CIMG1551.JPG

Would you mind sharing the McMaster Carr Part number for the spacer you used? It appears to be a threaded spacer?

Eaglezsoar wrote:

cambo3d wrote:I got the build plate reinstalled after tweaking the frame a bit and installed adjustable bed leveling. big difference from before and no more high spot in the middle. Everything is nice and flat to start with. here are some photos below.

final adjusting will be when everything is up to temp.

Would you mind sharing the McMaster Carr Part number for the spacer you used? It appears to be a threaded spacer?

#91115A164 for the 1/2" threaded hex spacer

Thanks and good job coming up with that. Simple yet should be very effective.

thanks, hopefully it will work good.

next item on the agenda is making a belt tensioner. I'm thinking something like this should work as long as I can find one in the length range i need. miniature turnbuckle

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wt ... XJRW4&P=FR these have 3.5 mm hole so they should fit the stock 6-32 screws. I wonder if they would come undone under some tension?

trying to find one in metal..http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/items/SWBCAF.html http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/tu ... -DUB300#t4 http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_se ... kle&page=1

I might have to raid my local hobbyshop tomorrow and see if there is anything that will work.

this one pictured here might work. I will let you guys know tomorrow. My local hobby shop should carry these.

Your local hobby shop should have something like that. You should be able to find something like that in the cars department. And you shouldn't have to worry about the length changing. I have an RC truck that can easily go 60+ mph, and have thrashed the crap out of it without the lengths of the turnbuckles changing. I usually break or bend one.

If your in Orlando, I'll guarantee that Graves RC will have what your looking for.

looks like its gonna be a no go, on my turnbuckle belt tensioner idea. If there was more room between the big hole at the top and the slot; It would work, but there's not enough spacing between the two to make it adjustable, even for the smallest turnbuckle so i'm gonna have to rethink this idea a little bit.
here is the other idea, the adjusting screw would go through a rod, in the top holes. I might use 4-40 studs instead of screws and have an adjusting nut at the top.

I was thinking the exact same setup and I figured I could always put a notch in the top radius of the top and run a bar across between the two.

It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

Eaglezsoar wrote:It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

I was trying make this plug and play. I didn't want to have to machine or make parts.

cambo3d wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

I was trying make this plug and play. I didn't want to have to machine or make parts.

Looks like the perfect kit for Mhackney to build and sell on his site...hint.
Carl

Eaglezsoar wrote:

cambo3d wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:It looks like the one GabrielK used should work.
http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=1169

I was trying make this plug and play. I didn't want to have to machine or make parts.

Looks like the perfect kit for Mhackney to build and sell on his site...hint.
Carl

yea, that would save me a lot of trouble.

Hey Michael, you have two potential customers, bet you could sell a hundred of these and each set up arms need them.
Just think of the potential. By the way, we need them tomorrow but Friday would be okay.

Something along these lines I was thinking.

where did you get the rod for the top? That's pretty much what I was thinking but I was trying not to cut and drill anything.