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What is unclear about the wording?

g.

I would suspect it's this bit:
"The pair of holes on the left are closer together than the pair on the right."
It's not clear that this statement is referring to an entirely different 'pair' of holes. The previous line refers to: "... into the holes indicated by the arrows" so it takes a moment to study the picture before realizing that the asymmetrical holes are the vertically spaced pair and not the sets referred to by the arrows in the picture.

HTH
Cheers.

Back to printing after more or less taking the summer off... I am also switching to matter control.
As I sit here watching a new minion take form, I noticed that the LEDs on the RAMBO could be seen through the acrylic just above the LCD. I say could, because on mine the ribbon cables from the LCD are blocking the view of those LEDs.
I checked the manual to see if I did it wrong, and on page 200 it says to "coil the cables up at the space at the bottom of the LCD and fit to the front of the machine." Now if I had done that I would be able to see the LEDs.
However, picture 17-3 right below the above quote shows the cables randomly placed, exactly how I put mine together.
I think it is cute to be able to see all those blinking LEDs, and if you manage the cables like the picture you won't see them.
If the text included a bit about not seeing the blinking LEDs unless you tuck the cables down below like it says, I think it would be an improvement.

Kitecraft wrote:I would suspect it's this bit:
"The pair of holes on the left are closer together than the pair on the right."
It's not clear that this statement is referring to an entirely different 'pair' of holes. The previous line refers to: "... into the holes indicated by the arrows" so it takes a moment to study the picture before realizing that the asymmetrical holes are the vertically spaced pair and not the sets referred to by the arrows in the picture.

HTH
Cheers.

Exactly as I saw it, the arrows should go to the holes it's actually referring to :]

Hi Gene -

Thanks for the *really* great manual! I'm very slowly progressing with my Max V2 build, as I typically only get a few hours per week of down time to work on it. I'm having a bit more time to devote to it this week, thanks to the Thanksgiving holiday weekend here in the US.

A couple of minor suggestions:

1) This is really minor, as it's pretty easy to figure out from looking at the Rambo board and limit switches, but on page 89, where it was talking about routing the X and Y axis tower wires, it wasn't initially clear which end of the end-stop wires should go at the top and which at the bottom. As mentioned, it didn't take much to figure out, as the spade connectors clearly needed to go on the end that would attach to the limit switches, but a mention of that would have been helpful.

2) On page 100 (fig 7-23), it would be helpful to point out the subtle (to me at least) asymmetry on the top plate, between the X and Y axes. I ended up getting the top late upside-down, and didn't realize it until it was time to tie-down the limit-switch wires, and I realized that there weren't tie-down slots between the X and Y axes. A note or arrows or something on fig 7-23 pointing out the tie-down slots between the X and Z and X and Y axes would have been helpful.

3) In retrospect, it was obvious, both from the text and the illustrations, that the wires exiting the towers should go through the tower openings (exactly as the manual says), vs the little holes in front of them that are used for the limit-switch wires, but I managed to get it wrong, and initially ran the wires up through the limit-switch holes, only realizing after the fact the wires would end up having to go back *down* through the tower holes, before they could come back up through the limit-switch holes. Again, this was actually perfectly obvious, and would have been clear if I'd read the whole manual through in advance as recommended, but a note to the effect of "the tower holes themselves, dummy, not the limit switch holes" would have avoided a misstep for me :-0

4) A really, really minor point: When I labeled the spade connectors on the limit switch wires for the three axes, I wrote on the flattest side of the spade connectors. When attaching them, I naturally oriented them with that side out. The switch lugs are so close to the column support elements though, that it really works best if the "flat" side o the female connectors are on the inside, facing the melamine supports, rather than the outside as I had them. Really not a big issue at all, but it strikes me that that orientation will likely result in less bending stress on the switch lugs than the other way around.

These were all pretty minor, but the upside-down top plate did cost me 30 minutes or so, as well as some slight cracks in the top tower mounts (from removing and re-installing the spacer blocks) that would have been nice to avoid. Completely non-structural, but it bugs me knowing they're there

I'll let you know if I have another incidents of insufficient manual-reading going forward, but do want to say again what an exceptional job you did on this, including the check videos. (In fact, it just occurred to me that I should view the check videos *before* getting to a checkpoint, to see what it is that I should be ending up with, before I embark on each section.)

Thanks again for the extraordinary effort that went into the creation of the manual, it's really an amazing document!

I did number 2 as well, took me a while to work out what had gone wrong haha.

Super Manual! A few things that I have learned since putting mine together:

My extruder motor ran very hot, had to follow this post for it to cool down, "stepper motors are super hot!" (http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=77&t=6024). Might be a good side note to include in the manual.

On page 250, it states that, "The default settings for this part are 218C for the hot end and 80C for the bed." I think the default setting downloaded from SeeMeCNC is 228C. Not sure which is right, but worth a look.

A Crimping Tool should be put on the "list of optional things" (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JLN93S/). It doesn't have to be this one, but having it to connect the wires is way way better than a needle nose pliers! Well worth the cost to get a good connection for me at least.

Last thing is another item missing from the "list of optional things", if you could include a link or your source for your invisible cat, that would be great!

Thanks again for such a great manual, this is the reason I chose a Rostock Max!

Also, on page 190 there is a typo that could be confusing to some. It says: "These are the black & white, 26ga
wires that do not have the knot tied in them." It should read 'black & red'.

Thanks Bradley.

The settings for the Kysan motors are covered in the manual.

The version of MC used for the manual differs in a number of spots from the current 1.2.2 release. I'll be updating it soon and that will fix the listed temperatures. They're cooking the default profiles into the installer now as well.

Most people can't justify the cost of a good crimping tool to only use it for four wires. That's why it's not listed.

Your request for an Invisible Cat has been noted. If one decides you're qualified, it will show up. You however, may not realize it for some time.

---------------------
I'll get the color note fixed when I revise for the new version of MatterControl.

Thanks guys!

g.

I agree that comments must be made to make the manual even better than it is but I want you to know that your manuals are among the very best I have ever seen.

Eaglezsoar wrote:I agree that comments must be made to make the manual even better than it is but I want you to know that your manuals are among the very best I have ever seen.

Indeed. Without the manual, I could not have finished my build in a little over 12 hrs.

Thanks all. It's appreciated to be appreciated.


12 hours? Dude, dial back on the coffee before your heart explodes.

g.

Was that by yourself? I had to get a team of 3 to build one in 10..

Mac The Knife wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:
I tend to agree with you on including a PREMADE PEEK fan shroud. This part is a critical part of the printer and should be included.

I disagree, I feel this makes a good, consistent test print. Having a sample of ABS filament to go along with the kit, enough to print a couple of fan shrouds, I agree with.

They could put calibration prints on the SD card, selling the kit without the Peek fan shroud is like selling a car without the radiator, IMHO.

Eaglezsoar wrote:They could put calibration prints on the SD card, selling the kit without the Peek fan shroud is like selling a car without the radiator, IMHO.

I think they should scrap the shitty stock hotend and include an E3D v6. It can't be more than $50 more and I'm sure that they can either trim that price elsewhere or add it on there. The stock hotend is, frankly, a disgrace. At least an all metal hotend, even if not an E3D, would be nice!

I beg to differ.

I believe the stock hotend is fit for purpose. It has served me in completely stock form rather well. Some cartridge type heaters could be a good addition but not an absolute must.

But i also believe that in their pricing they should include options.

Better thermistor securing and a heater cartridge is all the stock needs. They do have an all metal on the ERIS that may work itself down the pipeline.

redoverred wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:They could put calibration prints on the SD card, selling the kit without the Peek fan shroud is like selling a car without the radiator, IMHO.

I think they should scrap the shitty stock hotend and include an E3D v6. It can't be more than $50 more and I'm sure that they can either trim that price elsewhere or add it on there. The stock hotend is, frankly, a disgrace. At least an all metal hotend, even if not an E3D, would be nice!

I do not believe the stock hotend needs to be replaced by an E3D V6. The stock prints PLA and ABS just fine. The add-ons are fine if the user decides he or she wants them after the build, but adding them to the basic kit would only
increase the cost of the kit and the end results would be less sales. I do agree that the peek cooling shroud should be included as I have mentioned in previous posts but that in no way makes the stock hotend shitty as you described.

i agree also. printing doesnt end with PLA and ABS at sedate paces. i love nylon and nylon that i've used (lots of bridge, some 618 and trimmer line) all prints much better in the 270c range than it does 230-250c on the stock hot end. the layer bonding of nylons at 270 is just wow. it also bares in mind that not all of us bought (large) delta printers to print slowly. its awesome to get your feet wet and print some ABS at 225-235c at 30mm/s, or turn down with a small nozzel and get fine detail, but then there's those other times when you're doing something really large / really need volume printing to dial up 250c, slap in a .7-1.1mm nozzle, print 50-100% faster than stock travel rates with ABS and knock out what would be a 48hour print 6 times faster (or more).
and to mention, the nozzles are better. even their push-fittings actually work instead of being so all or nothing ours are. if they wont do e3d, at least start machining an all metal hot end that can handle nearer to 300*C. just because nylon bridge says you can print it at 230, there's a big difference even with bridge between 230 250 & 270 (especially when printing quickly).


why even worry about the price. you get more flexibility & value and frankly you're already spending over $1000usd on a max kit, another 100-150 isn't really off-putting. (i should have started with an E3D, cant believe i ran the stock hotend for so long. the e3d even holds temps better when really pushing media out)