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Alright after the temps settled down here is the results with the halogen lights off.

Temps:
At the very top: 46 degrees C
At the level of the extruder stepper: 45 degrees C
16 inches above the print bed: 43 degrees C
12 inches above the print bed: 42 degrees C
2 inches above the print bed: 41 degrees C

Effectively was 12 degrees C cooler.

Not bad, you might want to mount your extruder outside of the enclosure at those temps!

Not sure why it popped out the end, maybe something jammed up below, the filament buckeled then shot out the side? I've had it shoot out the side when I'm loading the extruder but never during a print.

I haven't posted up my top motor mount yet and side spool setup but I should soon for guys like you to get the motors out of the enclosure. I'll find time to put together files.

My next print will be a thin and tall print. Will see how that works.

JFettig wrote:Not bad, you might want to mount your extruder outside of the enclosure at those temps!

Not sure why it popped out the end, maybe something jammed up below, the filament buckeled then shot out the side? I've had it shoot out the side when I'm loading the extruder but never during a print.

I haven't posted up my top motor mount yet and side spool setup but I should soon for guys like you to get the motors out of the enclosure. I'll find time to put together files.

I had to pull back the filament in the Boden tube. Slid out easily once the hot end was at temp. The problem did seem like it was due to a distal jam but I'm not sure. B

Just started a 20 hour print. This is Copic Pen rack my daughter designed and made on 123D. It is a 1000 layer print which is 15x20 cm.

Fingers crossed. Will see how it goes with the enclosure.

8 hours into the pen holder print and it is adherent to the PEI without curling. No layer separation at this point. A bit of stringing noted and I backed off the extrusion multiplier from 1 to 0.85. Hot End is at 225 and with the enclosure things look a bit "tacky". Likely need to optimize my extrusion temp if the enclosure. Anyone have additional ideas?

Halogens are at ~50% and the temp at the print level is 46 degrees C.

12 more hours!!!

Thanks.

Nice work. Consider increasing your hot end temp, it sometimes helps with the stringing due to relieving nozzle pressure.

Don't go mucking with the flow multiplier unless you absolutely know its under/over extruding and you know how much it is over/under extruding. Knocking it down 15% can and probably will have ill effects.

JFettig wrote:Nice work. Consider increasing your hot end temp, it sometimes helps with the stringing due to relieving nozzle pressure.

That does make sinse. Thanks.

Nylocke wrote:Don't go mucking with the flow multiplier unless you absolutely know its under/over extruding and you know how much it is over/under extruding. Knocking it down 15% can and probably will have ill effects.

I do try to look closely and how much is extruding. One small print I did a few weeks ago resulted in as you said, ill effects..... I slowed the extrusion and the piece fell apart after it finished. Since then I think I've develpoed an eye for over and unders extrusion of the flow by watching corners and linear lines. I think I'm going cross-eyed.

Thanks.

Extrusion multiplier is something I never touch - calibrate the extruder properly, measure your filament in many locations and print single wall test parts to determine proper multiplier or calibrations.

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I generally do the "extrude 100mm of filament with the bowden tube unplugged, measure the length, divide it by 100, multiply that number by your steps per mm for your extruder and bam" method.

An update. My first print failed. You can see the separation which occurred even after changing the extrusion multiplier back to 1. I should have stopped this print earlier since when it was sliced with MC when using MC slicer and Cura doesn't didn't build the infill which I set at 30%. I also stopped my second and third print again because of no infill which I changed to 40 and then 50%, respectively. I'm not sure why MC does not build the infill on occasion . This has happened to me multiple times even with reprints or different prints. Once MC quits building the infill all prints fail in that regard. When I changed the infill to 80%, it build the infill. Gremlins or something live there!!! As well Slicer has never worked for me in MC even with default setting.

I will post this in the MC tread as well. I've downloaded Repetier and may try that. Havent decided!

Here is the no-infill fail. Overall it looks terrible.

Here is my current print with 80% infill. So far the only thing I see is that the left corner has lifted off the PEI slightly. Not impressed with my layers which are not well lined up. With the thin wall, when the printer is laying down the infill the whole printer is shaking. I suspect/wonder is this is where TrickLaser Arms would help.

Off to work. We will see how it looks tonight.

3D-Print wrote:

JFettig wrote:Nice work. Consider increasing your hot end temp, it sometimes helps with the stringing due to relieving nozzle pressure.

That does make sinse. Thanks.

With the HotEnd at 235, there is virtually no stringing. Thanks!!

Crank that nozzle up to 235 or 240 if you can. You need better layer bonding. Try a different slicer too. Infill is important to keep it bonded.

JFettig wrote:Crank that nozzle up to 235 or 240 if you can. You need better layer bonding. Try a different slicer too. Infill is important to keep it bonded.

Thank you. It is now running at 235 with the infill at 80%.

It isn't perfect but not bad. 38 hours. Wow

Getting better all the time! Great job!

Thank you. When I look close you can see where there is almost some or very subtle separation. Is that just ABS?

3D-Print wrote:Thank you. When I look close you can see where there is almost some or very subtle separation. Is that just ABS?

It has more to do with it being a Delta, all produce those lines some not to bad like yours or some that have very pronounced lines.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

3D-Print wrote:Thank you. When I look close you can see where there is almost some or very subtle separation. Is that just ABS?

It has more to do with it being a Delta, all produce those lines some not to bad like yours or some that have very pronounced lines.

Do you think the TrickLaser arms would clean that up a bit.

3D-Print wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:

3D-Print wrote:Thank you. When I look close you can see where there is almost some or very subtle separation. Is that just ABS?

It has more to do with it being a Delta, all produce those lines some not to bad like yours or some that have very pronounced lines.

Do you think the TrickLaser arms would clean that up a bit.

The TrickLaser arms will help but they do not go completely away. See this topic http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=7605

Do you think the TrickLaser arms would clean that up a bit.

The TrickLaser arms will help but they do not go completely away. See this topic http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=7605

Thanks! I like the idea of the Tricklaser arms and anything that continues to improve the prints.

Thanks for the link!!

What brand ABS are you printing? I have had some really nasty black ABS that comes out looking like that(or worse). Higher temps help layer adhesion, might bring other problems with it though.

What are your speeds?