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I'm hoping to get some help, I've been trying to get a more accurate calibration by using dial indicator mounted where my hottend goes. I've been searching but can't really find a good process to go about calibrating.

Do I set my z height so that the dial reads 0?
Do I run the stock tower calibration and adjust the set screws til they are even?
I didn't quite understand how to do the manual calibration using opendact, does anyone have a useful guide on that?

I'm new to a lot of this and I'm still learning so anything useful helps! Thanks, Dan!

Don't move your screws to make the dial read a certain way, put it where you want it and zero the dial.

I would run the cal described in the manual, and just use the reading on the dial as a more accurate way to match things than the drag on a piece of paper.

buggy wrote:I'm hoping to get some help, I've been trying to get a more accurate calibration by using dial indicator mounted where my hottend goes. I've been searching but can't really find a good process to go about calibrating.

Do I set my z height so that the dial reads 0?
Do I run the stock tower calibration and adjust the set screws til they are even?
I didn't quite understand how to do the manual calibration using opendact, does anyone have a useful guide on that?

I'm new to a lot of this and I'm still learning so anything useful helps! Thanks, Dan!

I didn't change the Z height when I did mine, I zero'd the indicator once the machine was at Z = 0, I set up a number of scripts to probe the points, basically lift off bed, move to target descend to Z = 0.
I used this site http://escher3d.com/pages/wizards/wizarddelta.php which I believe is based on the calibration in the DC42 firmware, instead of openDACT.
Since it's expecting you to read offsets off the LCD screen, you will need to negate all the measurements when you type them in.
Mine was pretty close when I started and pretty much spot on after the suggested adjustments.

Thank you for the feedback! it makes a lot more sense now how to use the dial indicator to help.
Does anyone have a gcode script to run the calibration where it lifts up the Z during moves?
ive tried to modify the gcode from the user guide and for some reason it stops half way through.

Thanks, Dan!

Here are two scripts that I've written and have used in the past. Set your dial so that the probe doesn't touch the glass at Z15. That's the height that these scripts travel at.


G28
G1 X0 Y0 z15 F10000
G1 X0 Y0 Z0 F300
G4 s4
G1 X0 Y0 z15 F300
G1 X-108.25 Y-62.5 z15 F10000
G1 X-108.25 Y-62.5 Z0 F300
G4 s4
G1 X-108.25 Y-62.5 z15 F300
G1 X108.25 Y-62.5 z15 F10000
G1 X108.25 Y-62.5 Z0 F300
G4 s4
G1 X108.25 Y-62.5 z15 F300
G1 X0 Y125 z15 F10000
G1 X0 Y125 Z0 F300
G4 s4
G1 X0 Y125 z15 F300
G1 X0 Y0 z15 F10000




G28
G1 X0 Y0 z15 F10000
G1 X0 Y0 Z0 F300
G4 S4
G1 X0 Y0 z15 F300
G1 X-125 Y0 z15 F10000
G1 X-125 Y0 Z0 F300
G4 S4
G1 X-125 Y0 z15 F300
G1 X-62.5 Y-108.25 z15 F10000
G1 X-62.5 Y-108.25 Z0 F300
G4 S4
G1 X-62.5 Y-108.25 z15 F300
G1 X62.5 Y-108.25 z15 F10000
G1 X62.5 Y-108.25 Z0 F300
G4 S4
G1 X62.5 Y-108.25 z15 F300
G1 X125 Y0 z15 F10000
G1 X125 Y0 Z0 F300
G4 S4
G1 X125 Y0 z15 F300
G1 X62.5 Y108.25 z15 F10000
G1 X62.5 Y108.25 Z0 F300
G4 S4
G1 X62.5 Y108.25 z15 F300
G1 X-62.5 Y108.25 z15 F10000
G1 X-62.5 Y108.25 Z0 F300
G4 S4
G1 X-62.5 Y108.25 z15 F300
G1 X0 Y0 z15 F10000

Before you go crazy trying to zero everything out with the indicator. Verify that the numbers are repeatable by homing and moving to each axis/center multiple times. If those values don't repeat then you'll have a hell of a time trying to calibrate. Could be loose endstop switches, belts, indicator mount, etc. Repeat-ability is the goal before everything else.


I basically run the X/Y/Z macros to get a baseline of the initial values. For example, x = 0 (The first time reset indicator after X macro), Y= +.02mm, Z= -.01mm

I won't touch the X axis; just lower or raise the mechanical set screw until the Y and Z = X axis. I run the macros several times to make sure they all equal each other. Sometimes it will feel like you can't get them all perfect, just reset your Zero on one of the axis and run the macros again. The goal isnt necessarily "zero" on the indicator but all the same value, or just keep resetting the indicator if you want to see that "Zero" value.

Once each outside axis match, run the center macro and reset the indicator to zero. Run the center macro multiple times to verify the center value is repeatable. Then run one axis on the outside to determine the horizontal radius change that is needed. Make the change to raise or lower the outside concave or convex build platform. Remember that each change to the horizontal radius needs to be re-homed each time and the center value reset each time.

Eventually the X/Y/Z axis will match the Center. Then reinstall your hotend and calibrate for the overall Z-Height distance. I would recommend a feeler gauge at about .06-.08mm

Thank you guys for the quick response! Im planning on tackling it this weekend im just gathering a good idea of how to do it as i prepare and print the mount.