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A quick video of my new build (actually a crappy video - my phone doesn't do video very well)

Frame: Tricklaser MAX Metal
Electronics: FastBot 3D BBP 1 from their Kickstarter
Motors: 0.9 400 steps
Hotend: E3D Light with Tricklaser platform and 713Maker mounting and Yellow Jacket plug in board.
Heated Bed: 120 Volt electric stove coil mounted to a 3/8" aluminum plate
Custom Carbon Fiber Arms and Trucks I cut out of G10 FR4 fiber board with the Shapoko II

Looks very good.

Mind writing a quick tutorial for the BBP?

Oh and how did you get the towers black?

teoman wrote:Looks very good.

Mind writing a quick tutorial for the BBP?

Oh and how did you get the towers black?

The towers are simply Black anodized, special request. I sent the materials to Tricklase for the MAX metal frame.

http://www.fastbot3d.com/
http://wiki.fastbot3d.com/

I have been working close with Fastbot the past few weeks, they are dedicated to making their software the best it can be.

Jassper,

that is fantastic!! love the whole thing, color is amazing!!!

Tom C

It's been said before but I must say it again - A Fantastic Printer!

On the cross pieces, did you have to use a special primer before painting them yellow?

Eaglezsoar wrote:It's been said before but I must say it again - A Fantastic Printer!

On the cross pieces, did you have to use a special primer before painting them yellow?

According to everything I read on the internet - no. But this is one of those times I wish I had followed my gut. Supposedly aluminum that is already anodized (clear), doesn't need any special primer to get paint to stick. But I am noticing paint peeling already. So I will most likely take one rail off at a time (top and bottom) strip it and use acid etch primer first, then re-paint.

Jassper wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:It's been said before but I must say it again - A Fantastic Printer!

On the cross pieces, did you have to use a special primer before painting them yellow?

According to everything I read on the internet - no. But this is one of those times I wish I had followed my gut. Supposedly aluminum that is already anodized (clear), doesn't need any special primer to get paint to stick. But I am noticing paint peeling already. So I will most likely take one rail off at a time (top and bottom) strip it and use acid etch primer first, then re-paint.

Thank you for what you said. I thought aluminum anodized or not required acid primer and you just made sure that I do not make the same mistake, thanks!

Jassper wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:It's been said before but I must say it again - A Fantastic Printer!

On the cross pieces, did you have to use a special primer before painting them yellow?

According to everything I read on the internet - no. But this is one of those times I wish I had followed my gut. Supposedly aluminum that is already anodized (clear), doesn't need any special primer to get paint to stick. But I am noticing paint peeling already. So I will most likely take one rail off at a time (top and bottom) strip it and use acid etch primer first, then re-paint.

The typical anodizing process uses a seal process which improves corrosion resistance and protects against staining. You can request a cold water rinse that won't seal and then provides a good layer for paint adhesion.

It's not something you will get unless you work directly with the anodizing supplier.

ccavanaugh wrote:

Jassper wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:It's been said before but I must say it again - A Fantastic Printer!

On the cross pieces, did you have to use a special primer before painting them yellow?

According to everything I read on the internet - no. But this is one of those times I wish I had followed my gut. Supposedly aluminum that is already anodized (clear), doesn't need any special primer to get paint to stick. But I am noticing paint peeling already. So I will most likely take one rail off at a time (top and bottom) strip it and use acid etch primer first, then re-paint.

The typical anodizing process uses a seal process which improves corrosion resistance and protects against staining. You can request a cold water rinse that won't seal and then provides a good layer for paint adhesion.

It's not something you will get unless you work directly with the anodizing supplier.

That explains it wonderfully, thanks!

ccavanaugh wrote:

Jassper wrote:

Eaglezsoar wrote:It's been said before but I must say it again - A Fantastic Printer!

On the cross pieces, did you have to use a special primer before painting them yellow?

According to everything I read on the internet - no. But this is one of those times I wish I had followed my gut. Supposedly aluminum that is already anodized (clear), doesn't need any special primer to get paint to stick. But I am noticing paint peeling already. So I will most likely take one rail off at a time (top and bottom) strip it and use acid etch primer first, then re-paint.

The typical anodizing process uses a seal process which improves corrosion resistance and protects against staining. You can request a cold water rinse that won't seal and then provides a good layer for paint adhesion.

It's not something you will get unless you work directly with the anodizing supplier.

Would using a #0000 steal wool on the piece first remove this seal?
Perhaps I'll do both SW and acid primer. Thanks for the info.

No... to seal in the anodizing world is to close down the porous structure. It would take a chemical strip and anodizing process at that point. A good shop can strip, and then I would do with a Type III hard anodize over the Type II they came with. Much harder, slicker, and thickness can be increased to offset the lost thickness from removal of the Type II. Type III will be a darker grey and most shops will be able to add a black dye.

Sorry to bring back up this older thread. One note on hard coat anodizing. Half of the anodizing is into the metal and half on top. Think that it will add .0015" or less to your finished surface so a slot that's say .200" wide will be reduced by .0015" per side, total of .003" or less. Probably not something you would notice. Stripping can remove more than that if they aren't careful and the piece must be brought back to bare metal for anodizing to take. It's also a 'line of sight' process so the inside of a tube will get little to none of the coating. Hard coat is also not conductive - an ohm meter should show zero whereas decorative anodizing will be conductive and is much thinner. Ccavanaugh is correct - hard coat has a very high hardness rating and depending on the application, can be grown into thicknesses of .005" or greater.

This is a great build!

Love the arm design with springs. Im using rubber bands and dont think its a good longterm choice.