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Ive been through the other topics on this subject, it is damaging equipment. So i am posting here.

Ive tried the auto tune several times. I get successful auto tune on my esd v6 upto 168c. I timed out again when i tried at 205 like the manual suggests and it melts the 17.00 e3d mount. Since I don't have a functional printer to print another mount I am at a loss. Sitting here trying to print with my 1200 dollar printer and it cant calibrate.

while trying to continue with calibration, pid values averaged at 168c setting for auto tune. then reseting pid drive max back to 205, as the manual suggests, I continue with z calibration macro and my noz temp will not go past 103c I turned fan on to keep my melted esd mount from remelting and becoming useless before i can get a successful print. Any suggestions would be very helpful.

Alright. Let's go over this some. By esd v6 I assume you mean E3D v6, unless there is an impressively blatant bland name product.

Let's start with the fan. By this, do you mean the fan which attaches with a transparent blue shroud? if so, that would explain partially why your mount began to melt. The V6 is not designed to ever operate without a fan on the heatsink, as it causes a multitude of issues. Do yourself a favor, and simply wire that fan straight to the power supply.

Secondly, I assume you built your printer with a V6 from the beginning, as that would be the only reason that you wouldn't be able to fall back somewhat. This is important, because it means you're new to the printer, and the printer is new. Did you change the temperature sensor number for the hotend?
the line

#define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE

should have an 8 following it. If it doesn't, that also explains a lot, as you are using the wrong sensor table for the thermistor, and thus your displayed temperature is quite off.

Thirdly, I strongly suggest you get a wood or metal E3D mount. I personally am partial to the ones 713maker sells http://713maker.com/mounts.html. SeemeCNC also sells a groove mount adapter that's laser cut wood for ~9$

Fourtlhy, once you have checked the above, then and only then re-run PID calibration. I find that manual tuning produces better results, but the auto-tune does OK for rough temperature holding. If you moved to a metal or wood mount, you should be able to crank up the drive max without worry. However, the rough values matter. So if it's overshooting quite a bit when you're getting it to temperature for tuning, try reducing P or the drive max a bit until you have some good values. Also, allow the system to cool between attempts, as otherwise you will have bad values.

Thank you so much! Obviously I will have to order a new Mount, I purchased the only mount from Matterhackers for the E3d v6. I will consider this a wasted 17.00 pla mount. I didn't see any reference to changing firmware for the max to accommodate the E3d. I will do this and hopefully continue as soon as appropriate mount is delivered.

You have the parts for the stock SeeMeCNC hot end and its mount as they came with your kit.

seriously consider using it and ABS to print your first two parts following GeneB's excellent instructions. get a fell for the printer with it and it does a fine job with ABS and PLA (for PLA many will prefer it to the E3Dv6 which is optimized for filament that needs higher temperatures )
I would say that if you do this that you look at GeneB's youtube video for getting and using a threaded thermistor... (for me it addressed the only problem I had with the stock hot end that of the thermistor coming free when the caption tap securing it stages a blown print.)

There is a line in the instructions for the E3D hotend install for the max, but those instructions aren't linked on the page for the printer kit itself. An instance of brilliance there.

Best of luck with the printer. Hopefully this is your only hang-up with it.

terratian wrote: i tried at 205 like the manual suggests and it melts the 17.00 e3d mount.

There is something seriously wrong then, the temperature at the top of the hotend where the mount is shouldn't even be warm at temperatures much higher than that.
The fan should run whenever the hotend is heating and anywhere above the bottom fin should not be hot.
Is it a genuine E3D or one of the cheap Ebay knockoffs?
What temperature does the LCD show at room temperature?
If you set the temperature to 100C and check it with a thermocouple is it actually 100C?

Polygonhell wrote:

terratian wrote: i tried at 205 like the manual suggests and it melts the 17.00 e3d mount.

There is something seriously wrong then, the temperature at the top of the hotend where the mount is shouldn't even be warm at temperatures much higher than that.
The fan should run whenever the hotend is heating and anywhere above the bottom fin should not be hot.
Is it a genuine E3D or one of the cheap Ebay knockoffs?
What temperature does the LCD show at room temperature?
If you set the temperature to 100C and check it with a thermocouple is it actually 100C?

Poly, we figured the issue out already. He was set for the stock thermistor, not the E3D one. It was through matterhackers, so it's likely a genuine E3D hotend, and we covered the fan issue.

I contacted matter hackers. They are sending me a new mount, they also sent me a link to the modified firmware for the e3d (not esd, typo). A piece, I believe its called a Bowden, inside the e3d also melted, I'm hoping not having this inside doesn't complicate things further. The peek fan shroud, the blue clip, also melted. I royally messed this part up. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByXOx ... mZ4V1AxQ1k

I changed the value in the configuration.h file of #define EXT0_TEMPSENSOR_TYPE 8

next I followed up with matterhackers instructional at http://matterhackers.dozuki.com/Guide/H ... Control/40

the pid test was successful at m303 s200 i updated the averages.

while attempting to get to pla temperature with the peek fan on i find it impossible to get to 200c

Autotune doesn't always get good values. You can run autotune again or manually tweak P upwards

Yep, that's a good and thorough melting. You'll need the following parts to get it back into good service beyond the mount:
http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ ... encoupling Collet only,
and http://www.filastruder.com/collections/ ... n-mount-v6

Hopefully with that you should be back in business.

**UPDATE**
I recieved my new parts. After installing the new bowden and metal mount, I turned the machine on, now the lcd is is diplaying odd unreadable lines, cables are connected correctly. I attempted to heat tyhe extruder up and the entire e3d is still heating up...I am confounded, it has the right settings for the e3d in the firmware...

I really appreciate everyones input.
I just ordered the all metal 713maker.com mounts and the replacement bowden and fan shroud from filastruder.com
Im hoping when they get here to be able to finally print the first iteration of my new drone design.

Hopefully someone sees the update to my op