So, here's a tip. You'll do just about as well with a 24V supply also powering the bed, in addition to the motors/heaters. With the way it's fused, you'll need ~35A. Now, that's 7A of 110. Less than half your circuit rating. In exchange, you pay more for the DC power supply, about 40$. You save more than that just cutting out the heater pad, and don't then need to work to keep the AC noise from affecting your printer and wiring harness, plus you'll also have only one (Rather massive, since it's a 1KW unit, with power to spare) cord to plug in.
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mea ... 55ayEyY%3d. You can halve the price of the SSR as well, and probably don't need the heatsink (Why not though, other than space). It also cuts out the need for a second circuit breaker. Your source for the SSR offers the DC unit (I would think that's how you found them anyways)
While I'm at it, I'll link you to my preferred enclosure design (I worked on it, so I like it, but it's really Raymond Ma's design).
http://repables.com/r/719/. A 4x4 is just barely enough poly-carbonate to build it (You'll have leftovers, but they aren't large enough for another panel for it). If you can't buy 4X4s of it, then you'll need 3 2x4's.
Also, just as a note. I've run my enclosure temp up a good ways, and don't have a whole lot of clearance from the trucks (I left a 150W ceramic heater running next to one for an hour, and it didn't do anything). Unless you plan on using some really crazy temps, I would stay with the stock carriages. While Brian's trick-trucks are nice, they are not adjustment free, while the new carriages are (And they come with an awesome warranty too). The stock ball arms have less play than most TRAXAS joints. I have none at all in mine, and they were among the first 50 shipped. And again, awesome warranty on them. If a plastic component fails within a year, Seeme has stated that the will replace it, and older parts are at their option.
If you strip any plastic parts, or mess them up, or your dog ate it, email
[email protected] your order number with us and your problem. Please submit your order number even if you bought our product through a re-seller.
We will warranty any plastic parts we manufactured as long as you can provide proof of purchase through us or a re-seller. The limit of warranty at the time of this post is one year from date of purchase, but (at our discretion) we'll warranty our parts (excluding hot end) the original purchaser after one year. All parts are warranted against defects upon receipt.
While I've heard tell that a number of traxas joints are sloppy out of the bag (It's those zero lash straps that help, not the joints really), and most are rather loose after a year of hard printing.
I suggest you try the Berd-air instead of building your own. It works pretty well, and you can find it here:
http://www.themakerhive.com/shop/viewit ... oductid=28 It's cheaper, and proven.
Another suggestion is the 713 mount for your E3D. It's far nice than any printer mount (Good grief MH over charges for those), and is a quick swap solution too.
http://713maker.com/mounts.html
As a warning, those high-accuracy steppers will lose you speed, as many find that the rambo can't feed them steps fast enough after a certain point to keep speed up. Feeding them 24V will help you maintain speed until you hit the board limit. Your chosen heat spreader is also a little small. It's larger than the actual print radius, but smaller than the bed diameter. I suggest you go with Brian at trick laser's one, as it's properly sized for the max, or make your own.
Full disclosure: I have purchased the 713maker mounts, the berd-air, printed/re-designed the brackets linked, but otherwise have no affiliation with any of the suggestions above (Unless you count buying crap from mouser, and making plans of my own like this). Do not worry about pulling 1KW through a standard plug. So long as yours are properly installed, they will easily handle it. I have at times pulled somewhere in the neighborhood of 1.6KW through a single plug, and a power strip, as well as at times short term 3KW loads on single plugs. I don't suggest the latter, but it hasn't set anything on fire yet.
Random boilerplate: If you trip the breaker with these modifications, check the wiring first in the printer, then in the socket. Do not replace your breaker with a larger one without making sure the wiring in your walls for that circuit is large enough to support it, and that you will not exceed the trip level of your primary breaker. If you aren't sure, and it keeps tripping the breaker, unplug your printer, and call a licensed electrician. If you feel ill, please do not put a lime in the coconut and call me in the morning. If you do anyways, I will not answer the phone. Do not taunt happy fun ball. We did not invent the algorithm. The algorithm consistently finds Jesus. The algorithm killed Jeeves.
The algorithm is banned in China. The algorithm is from Jersey. The algorithm constantly finds Jesus.
This is not the algorithm. This is close.