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So, my rostock has been having a blessed week. By blessed, i mean by satan. Started off with TPU not printing due to a worn down PETG tube. Replaced the petg tube, printed an upgraded extruder for tpu, still works like crap. Replaced the PETG section in the hotend, and it worked perfectly! Walked out of the room for maybe 5 minuted to make lunch, walked back in, the thermistor popped out, RTV still attached, and not only was the PEEK section melted, the PTFE section had also melted, which apparently means my hotend got to about 330+ degrees C .

So my actual question, is there any funny business I need to know about in the firmware, aside from calibrating the hotend, for installing the e3d on my printer? are the resistors identical?

[img]https://s32.postimg.org/evc0omq0l/20160617_125848.jpg[/img]
The PTFE Section in question...somethin doesn't look right here...

Ok, I'll bite.

Some kapton tape over the thermistor is good back-up to keep it all in place. I also use very high temp silicone self-bonding tape wrapped around as additional containment and breeze insulation from the peek cooling fan (which should always be on if your hotend is on).

As for E3D v6, it uses a cartridge heater vs resistors. Extra care and knowledge are needed when you deviate from the stock resistors as the cartridge heater will not fail prior to becoming red hot and causing more concern/problems than just a melted peek insulator. The resistors will fail as a last resort to prevent run away heating (you were very close to resistor failure which is a good thing in your case). E3D v6 uses a thermistor however it is screwed in place vs bonded with ultra high temp RTV and kapton.

Consider a point-of-use fire suppression device of some sort if you decide to change to a cartridge heater. Also keep in mind the genuine E3D uses a safer lower wattage heater(20-25W) vs the cheap copy cat hotends (40w is typically overkill which provides too much available energy if run-away occurs).

Now to answer your actual question

There is a little funny business you have to perform in the firmware, though it is fairly limited (no the thermistors are not identical) you need to address the thermistor type and adjust temp limits with the firmware.
Just go here for details: http://wiki.e3d-online.com/wiki/E3D-v6_Assembly

I'm curious to know how the thermistor managed to get pulled out of the hot end...

g.

The e3d does not use a screw in Thermidor, it's thermistor is screwed in with a thermistor


I'd recommend getting a screw in thermistor, they are a lot easier that messing around with the screw.

Codon, i had actually already had a dual resistor failure and upgraded to a heater cartridge, which i can only assume was a 40w unit due to the equal performance. I'll look at the e3d wii on the firmware.

Gene, not a clue why it popped out, it just looked like the plug of rtv just popped out as one unit.

Deathstar, i'll look at it, i just had a thermistor failure not too long ago with the v6, and happened to have a 10-pack of those thermistors on hand for a quick repair.

How could that even happen with the whole heater block wrapped in Kapton and the thermistor wires themselves taped to one of the 18ga power wires?

g.

Had a second heating resistor go out on me in about a month or so. Had an E3d that i have been wanting to try, so I disassembled the stock hot end (max V2) and installed the E3d using a seemecnc thermistor. When I disassembled the stock hot end to change it, I noticed the fan mount to the cooling fins had partially melted. Seems I had a runaway temp.
I installed the E3d and all is working well. Then I happened to be watching the printer as the hotend got hotter and hotter. It hit 250+ degrees. No shutdown. The thermistor was reading the temp just fine. Temp then came back down to normal (223 deg).
What is going on?? Obviously it was a runaway temp that got me with the last heating resistor also. Yes I did a PID calibration.

Something bad on the board?

Thanks in advance for the help