Looking to Purchase Rostock Max

[brianmichalk]

I have a lead on a Rostock v1, which has some upgrades, but I don't know how to value it. It's priced at $1000, and I can get the V2 for that. What are the differences between the V1 and the V2?

It has a 1 kw heated bed, and spare controller boards, spare motors, spare abs rolls, and an upgraded hot end, and all metal e3d hot end.

[Eric]

Depends on what vintage V1 as well, as some mods were applied during production without changing the model number. The stuff that you can easily identify by eye are differences in the upper platform, power supply, arms, carriages, ball joints, effector, extruder and extruder location, newer versions of the controller board, and probably some other odds and ends. e3d is a good hotend if original (but still not likely to be the current model), but if it's a chinese clone, pot luck. 1kw is a LOT for a heatbed, you may want to check to see that's accurate and what voltage it's being run at. Which also implies the power supply has been replaced/augmented, so something else to check on.

As for spares, my first question is why did he have them, especially if it's spares plural. Do the spares work? In any case, their value to you is probably not large, certainly nowhere near original cost.

As for filament, unless it's origin is known to be of acceptable quality, assume it's something cheap and of little value.

And of course there's wear and tear factors. Nothing is new.

If you really want the nitty gritty on differences, you can download the assembly manuals for both models (see documents section of forums). There will be part lists and everything.

[Mac The Knife]

And there is also the "rumored" V3 coming out in a few weeks.

[Xenocrates]

The differences between V1 and V2 are largely in the major structure of the printer. Things like the design of the upper and lower decks. The V1 had a largely circular divided compartment, and in many ways is very different. most also lacked the human machine interface necessary to print untethered. That means that there's less space for modifications, such as better power supplies and relays inside, and it also is harder to manage the cables inside attractively.

1KW for the heated bed implies that it is using a silicone heater, rather than an Onyx. This also points at an AC driven bed heater (And thus solid state relay for it).

Now, spare controllers and motors is bizarre (Says the guy with two different controller boards that might be fixable and a spare motor in a box). Depending on the status of the boards, which ones, and how many, it might be almost worthwhile to pick up for that and the E3D (Especially if the E3D has a full set of nozzles and a volcano block), presuming all of them are actual genuine models (For instance, I've spent ~300$ on E3D hotends/nozzles/sensors for my printer).

There are some issues with the V1 that the V2 doesn't have. First is the U-joints. The original ones were metal and prone to seizing. Then came acetal injection molded ones, which while less precise than properly cared for metal ones, didn't seize or require sanding. New machines come with ball joints and carriages that don't need adjusting, both of which help a lot with maintenance and print quality. It also doesn't have any real space for wiring or terminal blocks to be shielded or managed up top. On the other hand, it did allow for better tower alignment if the melamine of the decks was warped, as the towers could be moved individually. But it also means that they are more able to drift for that very same reason.

You have some other, more personal issues to look for when you buy it. Firstly, assembly: You don't know how well it was built (Or maintained). You also have no idea how it goes together, comes apart, or works. That's something you want to talk about with the person selling it. If practical, have them show you the wiring. If it's neat and well managed, or there's a diagram for the modifications, those are signs that it's well taken care of and well built. If you see terminal blocks (Especially if they are little one contact units slid onto a metal rail), That is a major bonus. Doubly so if those are fused. Means whoever built it cared, and was willing to spend the money to do it right (And probably knew how to as well). Get the specs of the power supply. Budget to replace it if it's still the Viotek unit. If it's Seasonic or Corsair, then that means that it's likely a better unit. If the capacity is over 700W, or it's a Gold or better certified power supply (You'll likely have to look that up from the model number, unless it's printed on the power supply), then again, a sign of care and willingness to pay for reliability.

Look for cosmetic damage. If there are chips, marks, or burns on melamine, that indicates problems happened.

Ask for pictures of sample prints. If really paranoid, and it's stated to be in working shape, ask for a video of the machine running off an STL you specify (Go for a small one).

Get the slicing profile from them. If you don't, it will be a pain to work back out eventually. Ask for a copy of the firmware as well. If they don't have those, be aware you're in for long hours if something goes wrong with the firmware, and a long span of testing for the slicing profile.

Check the hotends. If you're not sure they are legit, post them either here, or on E3D's own forums, with pictures.

And most of all with this. Don't be afraid to ask questions. Ask the seller, ask us, ask whoever. The only stupid questions are the ones you don't ask. If something feels off, look at it. Get a picture, ask about it.

I recommend building it yourself new, but best of luck whichever route you go.

[brianmichalk]

Thanks for the very helpful feedback. I know nothing about these machines, and I can tell it's going to be like learning CNC all over again.

I think I'll pass on this deal and get a new one.

[brianmichalk]

I did some searching on the V3, and have not been able to find out much about it.
Do we know what the upgrades will be?
Are we really talking about a few weeks until availability?
Is it going to have the same price?

[Mac The Knife]

Check out Part Daddy's post here: http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=10416

[brianmichalk]

Thanks for the information.

I asked the SeeMeCNC folks a few questions, and here is the information I got:

When is the V3 going to ship?
Late this month.

How much is it going to cost?
The same price, or slightly more.

[geneb]

My advice? Wait.

g.

[Eaglezsoar]

I agree with Gene, wait.
V3 will be here soon and you can decide then.