Inaccurate prints

[Nazulle]

Hey guys, this is my first forum post to bear with me..

My Rostock Max v2 seems to be having a lot of problems when it comes to printing straight lines and squares especially. When I first got it I began to experiment with the the mm/s that i would be able to print at and i noticed that the faster the printer went when i was printing cubes, it would seem to pretty much just skip printing the corners and would make a very sloppy curve. So now im printing at 28 mm/s which seems to be very slow compared to many other Rostock Max's i'v seen, and even at the speed that im printing at now i would occasionally get weird edges. The picture that im hoping would show up should show the problem that I just stated as well as one other. if you look carefully you will see how in every "flight of stairs," (for lack of better words) the lines that were printed seem to "wobble" or just not print COMPLETELY straight. It's not a major issue but i really don't like the inconsistency in the straight lines that are printing. Any help with these problems would be greatly appreciated I have a couple other problems i want to ask about but I i want to take on one thing at a time so i don't make it worse than it already is.
Thanks everyone!

I printed in Hatchbox Blue ABS on the Rostock Max v2
28 mm/s for both inside and outside perimeter
First layer speed= 20mm/s
Bed Temp=80
Extruder Temp=225
Infill=95%
First layer height= 0.3mm
Layer height=0.2
Outer surface perimeter=1mm
Bottom clip (dont know what this is but i guess it could be useful)= 0
Solid top layers= 7
Solid bottom layers=4

Thanks again

[CodonExe]

Looks like you are possibly seeing your infill pattern show through your outer shells. try 3-4 outer shells on that print again. Your last issue seems to be your print cooling fan is not set at a high enough flow. Are you printing outside in or inside out?

[Nazulle]

Looks like you are possibly seeing your infill pattern show through your outer shells. try 3-4 outer shells on that print again. Your last issue seems to be your print cooling fan is not set at a high enough flow. Are you printing outside in or inside out?

I'm printing outside in. If it should be the other way around then I'm not exactly sure how i would be able to get the printer to do that. Also, considering I am using ABS to print, I do not have my print cooling fan on for fear of warp issues and etc.

[CodonExe]

With 7 solid top layers (try 4) your print does not have enough time to cool before it adds the next layer and collectively the top box of your print stays molten longer causing the issues you see.
You could slow your print down(try this first as it will also help the ripple/ghosting in your print), you could also print a sacrificial pillar next to your calibration print to allow for layer cooling to occur without layer cooling fan being enabled.
Did you increase your outside shells and try again?

So to sum up:
Increase outside shells to 3-4
Decrease speed/allow for cooling
Decrease solid top layers to 3-4

If you can, post more pics of the print as you make the changes.

[nebbian]

The warping at the top can be solved by setting your cooling fan to be on at a very low speed (I use 10%, but this will vary between printers). It's a fallacy to say that cooling should never be used on ABS, I've found that a very weak cooling fan drastically improves print quality. Try printing a marvin in ABS without a cooling fan, and see if you can get a good keyring on his head. You won't.
I've set mine to ramp up from 10% when the layer speed is above 12 seconds, to 50% when the layer speed is below 8 seconds. This works very well for me.

As Cordon said, try increasing the number of shells.

Also 95% infill seems very high, perhaps try 50%.

[Nazulle]

The warping at the top can be solved by setting your cooling fan to be on at a very low speed (I use 10%, but this will vary between printers). It's a fallacy to say that cooling should never be used on ABS, I've found that a very weak cooling fan drastically improves print quality. Try printing a marvin in ABS without a cooling fan, and see if you can get a good keyring on his head. You won't.
I've set mine to ramp up from 10% when the layer speed is above 12 seconds, to 50% when the layer speed is below 8 seconds. This works very well for me.

As Cordon said, try increasing the number of shells.

Also 95% infill seems very high, perhaps try 50%.

The 95% infil was used to test over extrusion because when I would print my first layer, some of the plastic would begin to rise up on the edges. Unfortunately I just left for vacation and I won't be home until next Friday so I will show you what I mean there. How were you able to change when the layer cooling fan would increase its speed as the mm/s would change? I can't seem to find an option to do that..?

[Nazulle]

With 7 solid top layers (try 4) your print does not have enough time to cool before it adds the next layer and collectively the top box of your print stays molten longer causing the issues you see.
You could slow your print down(try this first as it will also help the ripple/ghosting in your print), you could also print a sacrificial pillar next to your calibration print to allow for layer cooling to occur without layer cooling fan being enabled.
Did you increase your outside shells and try again?

So to sum up:
Increase outside shells to 3-4
Decrease speed/allow for cooling
Decrease solid top layers to 3-4

If you can, post more pics of the print as you make the changes.

I left for vacation earlier today but before I left I printed out a stand for my phone with your advice on increasing the outside shells:

From what I'm guessing, by increasing the outside shells, it gave the printer less space to fill in the top (as you might be able to see from the gaps left in the middle) also even with the increased number of shells, the weird "vibration" effect still seems to show up

When I get back home next Thursday I'm going to try decreasing the print speed even more for the outer perimeter and see how that goes. I will also try using the fan at a very low speed but with that I would imagine I would have to increase the temperature of the buildplate slightly so the fan would not begin to warp the lower layers.

[nebbian]

The warping at the top can be solved by setting your cooling fan to be on at a very low speed (I use 10%, but this will vary between printers). It's a fallacy to say that cooling should never be used on ABS, I've found that a very weak cooling fan drastically improves print quality. Try printing a marvin in ABS without a cooling fan, and see if you can get a good keyring on his head. You won't.
I've set mine to ramp up from 10% when the layer speed is above 12 seconds, to 50% when the layer speed is below 8 seconds. This works very well for me.

As Cordon said, try increasing the number of shells.

Also 95% infill seems very high, perhaps try 50%.

The 95% infil was used to test over extrusion because when I would print my first layer, some of the plastic would begin to rise up on the edges. Unfortunately I just left for vacation and I won't be home until next Friday so I will show you what I mean there. How were you able to change when the layer cooling fan would increase its speed as the mm/s would change? I can't seem to find an option to do that..?

See attached.