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Another blown Rambo Board =P But can we save it?
Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 6:26 pm
by dmgdispenser
as the title says, I've blown a rambo board. the heat bed terminal melted, so i had fun sawing it off, and then saw the capacitor was blown, so the question is can i get it fixed? or is it too far gone... I've placed my older v1's rambo in my v2, it's a bit older variation it seems.... but it also acts slightly different in some ways. but it's up and running.
So here's the real question, Life after RAMBO,
what are my options?
1) fix the rambo
2) buy another rambo
3) smoothie board?
4) duet?
5) ramps
any recommendations? I thought the board was salvageable until the capacitor blew.
PS i saw the heatbed terminal off because it was burnt
Re: Another blown Rambo Board =P But can we save it?
Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:12 pm
by Qdeathstar
Well, if you think it is possible to fix, go for it... Otherwise, duet it up
Re: Another blown Rambo Board =P But can we save it?
Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 7:23 pm
by Eric
Well, the cap in your pictures looks to be in backwards, so it had a really good excuse to blow. When you remove it, look at the silkscreen...there should be an indicator as to polarity.
Replace the cap, and it'll likely be ok. Or you could probably leave the filter cap out entirely...the heatbed isn't gonna be fussy about a little dirt in its power, being a simple resistive load.
I am curious that you say the older board behaves differently. In what way?
Re: Another blown Rambo Board =P But can we save it?
Posted: Sun Aug 28, 2016 8:36 pm
by dmgdispenser
Eric wrote:I am curious that you say the older board behaves differently. In what way?
i think it's minor but, it's not anywhere near as smooth as the v2 rambo, in terms of just rail movement, i've uploaded the exact same settings from my rambo to another, and it seem to work fine without much calibration, but when.... moving say init start it goes from z-limit to heatbed for first layer, it has a hiccup, like it can only go 100mm does at a time, like a second in between each 100mm where as my other one smoothly goes down, and the retraction is really really hard to manage on this older board. i would often get a scrap hot end line due to retract not being correctly set on this board but all my previous settings were loaded to this board, just odd.
Yeah I thought i just put the new cap on backwards, because when the board was broken initially, it did power up, i replaced the port/ cap, i guess i put the cap on the wrong polarity ROFL, i fail.