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Hey everyone. I am a first time printer builder who just finished the V3 printer. Unfortunately I seem to be having an issue with the flat head screws on the carriages engaging the limit switches. I initially noticed the the screws were tilted back away from the carriages and suspected that might the issue but I have since fixed them and they still do not engage the actual switch.
This is the initial placement I had and below is my fix to try to solve the issue.
I know that the switch is not blocked as I can engage it with a screw driver. Has anyone else had this problem and found a good solution? If I don't plan on using the maximum height of the print with this end up causing my a problem?

Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Can you take a picture of how the screws line up with the levers on the switches at the top?

I am not sure exactly of how to take that picture, there is almost no room and zero light that actually see whats happening but I will make some attempts.

I ended up getting some longer screws for mine and screwing them in further to make sure they were vertical.

The screw should be 3/4" long - if it's not, bug SeeMeCNC about it. Some of the early kits may have gone out using the pre-packed carriages for the v2, and those screws were only 3/8" or so.

g.

also make sure to remove the silver switch arms.

Kevinvandeusen wrote:also make sure to remove the silver switch arms.

THIS. A million times, THIS.

I wasn't aware of that until AFTER my build was nearly done. I was highly annoyed when I found out I had to partially disassemble the machine to get at those stupid levers. I made sure to update the docs with an uppercase warning when I discovered this.

g.

Why does the v3 even need those adjustment screws for?

Qdeathstar wrote:Why does the v3 even need those adjustment screws for?

I would assume it's cheaper to continue using a screw instead of redoing the carriages to have a protrusion that hits the switch as part of the mold.

If they did that they'd have to carry 2 version as spare parts and that increases costs.

Qdeathstar wrote:Why does the v3 even need those adjustment screws for?

Autocalibration is nice,,, but when it doesn't work correctly on my Eris, I wish it had adjustment screws.

Mac The Knife wrote:

Qdeathstar wrote:Why does the v3 even need those adjustment screws for?

Autocalibration is nice,,, but when it doesn't work correctly on my Eris, I wish it had adjustment screws.

Have you contacted support /directly/ about the problems you're having?

g.

geneb wrote:

Mac The Knife wrote:

Qdeathstar wrote:Why does the v3 even need those adjustment screws for?

Autocalibration is nice,,, but when it doesn't work correctly on my Eris, I wish it had adjustment screws.

Have you contacted support /directly/ about the problems you're having?

g.

In the beginning, after I overheated the accelerometer on the original board. Now I just print a test piece, measure, and adjust the offset in the eeprom.

yes, I put mine in, and saw that they were squashed down and jerked them off. the next day, I saw your manual revision!

geneb wrote:

Kevinvandeusen wrote:also make sure to remove the silver switch arms.

THIS. A million times, THIS.

I wasn't aware of that until AFTER my build was nearly done. I was highly annoyed when I found out I had to partially disassemble the machine to get at those stupid levers. I made sure to update the docs with an uppercase warning when I discovered this.

g.

Oh... I guess it doesn't matter so much in the v3 but with my v2 I had issues with the calibration changing, and I think that's cause I over torqued the screws originally trying to learn how to do it, causing the screws to sit a bit loose and vibrated out over time... I just took them out and made my adjustments in eeprom and I've printed for about 100 hrs with no adjustment necessary other than a .5mm difference in z-hieght between pla and abs...



Speaking on that, I'm getting the acceleration board and I thought I read that you do the calibration cold.... But how does it account for z-height differences when it's at temp? Does it just probe once in the center to set the hieght?

I calibrated mine cold and then set the first layer height to be .450 - it works great.

That being said, you CAN calibrate it hot as long as you make sure the nozzle tip is squeaky clean and isn't drooling filament.

g.

geneb wrote:The screw should be 3/4" long - if it's not, bug SeeMeCNC about it. Some of the early kits may have gone out using the pre-packed carriages for the v2, and those screws were only 3/8" or so.

g.

I did find the note to remove the silver tabs so that wasn't a problem I had to deal with. I managed to find a left over set of 3/4" flat head screws and those solved the problem perfectly.

Thanks!

I found that two of my limit switch screws would not enter the channel leading to the limit switchs. Rather than try to realign the screws or ream out the holes, I ground a bit off the screw heads. Now there is free movement through channel.