Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hello,

I seem to having some issues that I can't figure out with the Rostock Max v3 running prints off MatterControl 1.5.

While printing the first layer, it seems like the nozzle is too close to the glass towards the y/z-column, and too far from the glass towards the x-column.

https://postimg.org/image/uorrma083/
https://postimg.org/image/9qllo70df/
I've done some 13 point leveling calibrations but it doesn't seem to work.

One thing I did notice was that if I swapped around the delta arms, the errors would occur in the same place. However, if I rotated the hotend itself, the error would change location. My best print so far was done with the fan of the hotend pointing to the Z axis vs the X axis like in the first 2 photos.

https://postimg.org/image/dpit70p0j/

While this print is much better overall, there is noticable thinness towards the are between the X and Y columns and thickness between the X and Z columns.

I've tried releveling the glass bed but I noticed that even rotating the whole hotbed itself does not rotate the areas of thinness so I concluded that the bed itself was not the issue.

Can anyone help?

Thanks,

*Bump

Sounds very much like a case of "tower lean", other than the part where rotating your hotend changes the position of the issue.

Try giving that a search in the forum search box and see what turns up.

First, ditch this multi point leveling. It's neat, but not how it should be done. One reason you got a v3 is because of the accelerometer auto probing of the HE280. We put some effort into this hot end and it will perform. So turn off software leveling conpletely. Also, when using software leveling, your making gcode that isn't going to be good for anything later or usable on another printer.

Second, I'll bet the print surface is not flat. If the bed clamps are overtightened it will bow the glass. If the glass is flexed it will appear to smash and lift. It's because the glass is bowing under stress. Adjust the blue bed clamps to gently grip the build plate (glass).

Last, run auto calibration from the LCD panel. At the shop, the guys build a v3, flash firmware, auto calibrate, and print. This works every time.

Lay a carpenter square or straight edge across the build surface in three directions. Adjust the bed clamps. Then run calibration from the LCD.