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Hey, I'm having trouble with my S3d settings and the amount of stringing occurring. If I go above 6mm retraction distance, the extruder nozzle seems to clog really quick and the filament is grinded down in spots. I have attached a screenshot of my s3d settings and a pic of my print. I welcome suggestions and tips please!

Thanks for your help

Pic of stringy print

With the HE280, you have to limit your retracts to no more than 2mm @ 25-35mm/sec. Anything longer or faster is begging for jamming problems. It has the same retract length & speed requirements as does the E3D v6.

g.

That seemed to help. Thank-you GeneB! Can I kindly ask you why my V3 might be resetting mid print? It does it randomly and has been happening now for the last few prints. I have checked the wiring and everything looks fine.

You either have a wiring problem or a power problem.

g.

skyjuice wrote:That seemed to help. Thank-you GeneB! Can I kindly ask you why my V3 might be resetting mid print? It does it randomly and has been happening now for the last few prints. I have checked the wiring and everything looks fine.

Are you printing from S3D directly or using SD card or different software?
I use MS Windows tablet for printing.
S3D direct printing randomly stops.
From RepetierHost or from SD card (LCD reader) print works without problems.

I print straight from SD. I don't trust a connection from my laptop.

geneb wrote:With the HE280, you have to limit your retracts to no more than 2mm @ 25-35mm/sec. Anything longer or faster is begging for jamming problems. It has the same retract length & speed requirements as does the E3D v6.

g.

Any other setting you'd recommend other than that? I tried that and still TONS of stringing.

What material and temps are you using? I was having pretty bad stringing problems with the PLA I got from SeeMeCNC with my printer. I was using mhackney's default settings for KISSlicer at first and followed pretty much all the recommendations I could find online (increase retract length/speed, increase non-print movement speed, lower hotend temp, etc.) without much luck. What finally helped was reducing my z-lift from 4mm to 1mm. After that the stringing disappeared almost completely...

I am struggling with this as well. I have reduced retraction and tried different temps. Any suggestions would be appreciated. This is green PLA. They are small parts printed on the same plate.

[img]https://s23.postimg.org/it4zaozd7/image.jpg[/img]

[img]https://s27.postimg.org/n45p6499f/20161214_203219.jpg[/img]

Make sure your hot end is not clogged. Take the nozzle and top retainer off and make certain it's open and clear. Then when you put it back together after installing the retaining clip on the bowden tube. Push the tube back down that 2.5mm or so. If you don't a blob will build up right at the bottom of the bowden. The printer will still work but not great and will have a lot of stringing.

Noircogi wrote:Make sure your hot end is not clogged. Take the nozzle and top retainer off and make certain it's open and clear. Then when you put it back together after installing the retaining clip on the bowden tube. Push the tube back down that 2.5mm or so. If you don't a blob will build up right at the bottom of the bowden. The printer will still work but not great and will have a lot of stringing.

Is there a write-up on how to properly pull the hot end apart once it has had plastic through it?

DeweyOxberger wrote:Is there a write-up on how to properly pull the hot end apart once it has had plastic through it?

Agreed, +1. I think I'm having the same problem and may need to clean out the HE280 and make sure all the parts are installed correctly. I have to apply a good bit of pressure to get PLA to flow through the nozzle which requires large retracts to stop it again.

Are there any good threads on how to tear down and clean out a hot end?

As Noircogi says this is likely an issue with the Bowden tube not being pushed into the hot end far enough. I had exactly this problem early on with the v3. My tube was 7mm+ shy of the nozzle endstop. what happens then is that melted material creeps back past the heat break and grabs the incoming filament.

I resolved the problem by first clearing the lump in the nozzle. This can be done by feeding some filament normally by printing something small then let the nozzle cool with the filament in place. Remove the Bowden tube, sliding it back up over the filament. Next heat the nozzle again while maintaining a firm pull on the filament. As the heat softens the plastic it will eventually pull out with the obstructing plug on the end of the filament. if this plug is the same diameter as the OD of the Bowden tube you'll know your Bowden tube wasn't seated properly. you might need to remove the collet to get the plug out if it comes away at an angle. Prize it gently out with your fingers.

To seat the Bowden tube properly first check it is cut *exactly* square then use a matchstick or similar to plumb the depth of the nozzle. I used a bamboo barbecue skewer. Then mark the depth on the Bowden tube with a small piece of electrical tape. Finally, reinsert the Bowden tube and make sure it goes all the way in. Push the collet down as you feed and maintain pressure on the tube as you lift the fixing collet. Take care not to move the tape as it won't stick to the tube well.

Zob

timskloss wrote:

DeweyOxberger wrote:Is there a write-up on how to properly pull the hot end apart once it has had plastic through it?

Agreed, +1. I think I'm having the same problem and may need to clean out the HE280 and make sure all the parts are installed correctly. I have to apply a good bit of pressure to get PLA to flow through the nozzle which requires large retracts to stop it again.

Are there any good threads on how to tear down and clean out a hot end?

I just did this today. I basically worked backwards from the assembly manual. I took the hotend off the printer, removed the fan assembly, removed the thermistor from the heater block, and I imagine you could get the nozzle out if its not jammed at this point. Mine was, so I had to remove the heater cartridge which required desoldering the thermal fuse. I was then able to remove the heat break from the heat sink and use a blow torch to free up the nozzle and heat break from the heater block. It all worked again after reassembly and took about 30 min. Something I noticed I missed during initial assembly was loose screws that hold the ball joints in place. I had been hearing something and figured out it must have been the washers moving around. I am going to print with the suggested lower retraction settings and see if its better now.

Oh, I also recut my tube straighter and used the tape method suggested by Zob.

EDIT:

So all is well now. I am now able to get good results with mhackneys KISS settings just as they are, no stringing.