Dual Extruder
Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 5:26 am
Hi everybody
I think it is time to start discussing the dual extruder for Rostock Max topic. Although I won't tackle this, before I haven't got a perfectly running machine (onyx leveling, LCD, new nozzle, backlash, platform tipping, ooze), it is well worth to agree on how to do this properly from the beginning.
I am holding the add-a-struder kit in my hands, but don't have more clues on how to mount the hot-end. The only reference I can find, is the CAD rendering on Rostock Max's reprap wiki page:
[img]http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/thum ... oncept.JPG[/img]
This picture suggests to remove the hot-end mounting plate spacers and screw the plate directly to the delta platform. The two or three hot-ends would all be screwed directly into the mounting plate. I don't like this particular version very much, for several reasons:
- If the delta platform suffers from a slight tipping during movement (which is probably inevitable), the nozzles would be moved quite a bit, increasing displacement of perimeters and infill. Further, the nozzles would change Z distance due to not sitting in the center of the platform.
- With the spacers, I am able to cool the heat barrier of the hot-end with a fan above the delta platform, preventing the airflow from cooling the heating block below the platform. This would be much harder without this separation and would need a specific fan duct.
- I love my LED ring. Due to the hot-end mounts covering the lower side of the platform, it would not be possible to have the LED ring attached.
- From experience with other printers I know, that nozzle alignment in Z is vital. With the suggested version, the only possibility to properly align the nozzles would be to make sure, that all thread fittings are tightened, the nozzle sits on metal inside the heating block and then sand down the nozzles irreversibly until they are aligned. Or am I not seeing the obvious solution for this?
Since my first printer, I imagine a seesaw like construction, to slightly lift the inactive nozzle from the print by a solenoid or servo. Maybe, a construction similar to the Dimension printer heads (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8v11G0WZds) would be possible (only the lifting, not the rest of the construction).
Looking forward to read about your thoughts concerning dual heads for Rostock Max!
Andy
I think it is time to start discussing the dual extruder for Rostock Max topic. Although I won't tackle this, before I haven't got a perfectly running machine (onyx leveling, LCD, new nozzle, backlash, platform tipping, ooze), it is well worth to agree on how to do this properly from the beginning.
I am holding the add-a-struder kit in my hands, but don't have more clues on how to mount the hot-end. The only reference I can find, is the CAD rendering on Rostock Max's reprap wiki page:
[img]http://reprap.org/mediawiki/images/thum ... oncept.JPG[/img]
This picture suggests to remove the hot-end mounting plate spacers and screw the plate directly to the delta platform. The two or three hot-ends would all be screwed directly into the mounting plate. I don't like this particular version very much, for several reasons:
- If the delta platform suffers from a slight tipping during movement (which is probably inevitable), the nozzles would be moved quite a bit, increasing displacement of perimeters and infill. Further, the nozzles would change Z distance due to not sitting in the center of the platform.
- With the spacers, I am able to cool the heat barrier of the hot-end with a fan above the delta platform, preventing the airflow from cooling the heating block below the platform. This would be much harder without this separation and would need a specific fan duct.
- I love my LED ring. Due to the hot-end mounts covering the lower side of the platform, it would not be possible to have the LED ring attached.
- From experience with other printers I know, that nozzle alignment in Z is vital. With the suggested version, the only possibility to properly align the nozzles would be to make sure, that all thread fittings are tightened, the nozzle sits on metal inside the heating block and then sand down the nozzles irreversibly until they are aligned. Or am I not seeing the obvious solution for this?
Since my first printer, I imagine a seesaw like construction, to slightly lift the inactive nozzle from the print by a solenoid or servo. Maybe, a construction similar to the Dimension printer heads (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I8v11G0WZds) would be possible (only the lifting, not the rest of the construction).
Looking forward to read about your thoughts concerning dual heads for Rostock Max!
Andy