Best Slicing Profiles for a V3?

[Brendan]

Hello guys, I have been looking everywhere for some preset profiles that will do me well for my prints on my Rostock Max V3! I have searched the web and everything and can't find any profiles. If someone could lead me in the right direction that would be great. Also, would it be best to do everything on matter control or have a separate slice software and slice it, then bring it into matter control to print. All the help and feedback will be greatly appreciated!

[mhackney]

There are lots posted here - I have posted some myself - for Cura, KISSSlicer and Slic3r for PLA and ABS. What are you looking for?

I recommend using a separate slicer and learn how to use it. You will gain a lot more knowledge, get better results and not be constrained to MC. Although, MC does support MatterSlice and Cura it is still better to use Cura directly. Then print from SD or via OctoPrint.

[djarmag]

I can attest to mhackneys slicer profile for Cura when I use Octoprint. I posted a pic in his thread with his bandaid model and now I have something to reference to when learning how to adjust my settings. I also avoid printing directly from Matter Control because I notice during heavy CPU usage and gaming the print would stutter due to some delay.

[mhackney]

In general, using a personal computer (Linux, Mac or Windows) as a printer host is not the best way to do it. Almost anything happening on the PC can interrupt the data flow over usb to the printer. You can sometimes see the printer stall - especially with highly segmented moves - and there is a negative effect on print quality. Either print from the SD card or OctoPrint running on a dedicated RaspberryPi.

[Brendan]

Thank you guys for the quick responses! I am looking for a Cura profile that is universal really.. I am going to use ABS. If someone could link me a profile for an awesome print like a vase or something I would appreciate it. The reasoning is, I built my V3 in my classroom and my first print is my second midterm grade.

[Ravitch]

Whoever determined that your midterm grade would be your first print on on a new printer that you built, especially a Rostock V3 that is a good deal more challenging than your average i3 clone, is both a sadist and doesn't know much about 3D printing.

[geneb]

I would highly recommend you use PLA. The learning curve is a lot shallower and doesn't require "environmental" controls like a heated chamber, etc.

Ask your instructor if he would demand a student correctly machine a turbine impeller blade on a CNC machine they just built and having had no prior experience with subtractive manufacturing. It's essentially the same thing.

If I were you, I'd print a 20mm square cube and turn that in.

g.

[Brendan]

Guys I ran into another problem! Heres what is going on. I can extrude just fine when I'm in the home position, but when I go to start a print (test cube) the motor for the extruder is spinning but its not pulling the PLA. Also, the motor ticks twice then stops and the ticking goes away but no filament coming out of the nozzle. The last thing, when I am in the home position and extrude 10m or 100m of filament, the nozzle pops. Like a firecracker. Its a quick pop. It donsent pop continuously, just a couple pops here and there while extruding

[mhackney]

Popping is often a side effect of moisture in the filament - especially PLA will do this.

Make sure the Bowden tube is seated ALL THE WAY into the hot end.

Try this - jog to 25mm above the bed and then extrude there to compare to extruding in the home position. What happens? Look for kinks or sharp bends in the Bowden.

The clicking you hear is the stepper missing steps most likely. It might be jammed (see comment about seating the Bowden).

[Brendan]

Thank you, I will look into that! Also, one more thing.. I forgot to mention that the tip of my nozzle is a little bit black as if it was burnt? How could that be?