Titan Extruder - Any changes to firmware/simplify

[wepollock]

http://e3d-online.com/Titan-Extruder

In my inventory of spare parts, I seem to have acquired a Titan extruder. I was wondering if I needed to change any of the setting in firmware, or whether or not I could accomplish the same in simplify 3d w/o firmware changes. I think the titan is geared as opposed to direct drive.

I also have an EZR Struder™ on order in case I need a backup... because the original EZ Struder is not cutting it.

Any ideas or links appreciated.

[dc42]

You will need to adjust the extruder steps/mm. If your firmware needs to be recompiled to adjust it, and you don't want to do that, then you should be able to set the correct steps/mm using the M92 command in your slicer start gcode script instead.

[Dionysus480]

I use the titan with my Duet and it works fine. Need to go through the usual extruder callibration, but I love the Titan. I know Bondtech QR is the cadillac, but the Titan has really served me well.

DK

[wepollock]

Thanks guys;

I think, The line I need to change reads as follows;

#define EXT0_STEPS_PER_MM 92.4 // EZStruder

The titan documentation has the following; 200 * 16 * 3 / (7.3 * 3.142) = 418.5 <does this sound correct.
I know the titan turns 3:1 but the number is not close... I guess I could test the extruder by measuring filament.

Thanks for M92 as well. I might give that a try before i change firmware.

---I have been having some grinding problems. I had the same problem with the EZ struder; and also the EZR struder. So the extruder may not be the problem.. perhaps the nozzle is.

[Dionysus480]

My M92 is currently set at 401. Much closer to your number. I'm on RepRapFirmware.

[nebbian]

I set mine to the recommended number (418.5) and it was spot on when I measured it.

Note that the titan (as it comes) tends to flatten one side of the filament due to the flat idler bearing, especially when printing PETG. I made this to combat the issue:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2185353

I can now print reliably in PLA, ABS, PETG, and TPE, all with absolutely no tuning of the extruder tension. It seems like a worthwhile upgrade to me.

[wepollock]

Thanks very much for your help.

I removed my .4 Nozell from my E3dv6 and I have a .5 coming in from the UK.

When I turn the extruder without the old Nozell in place it takes quite a bit of resistance to get it to grind.
My thinking is that the old Nozzel is just worn or clogged.

If i have to replace the whole hot end then I am going to replace a whole lot of parts. I was considering the V3 effector but I don't see the need for auto leveling because the V2 printer is easy to dial in. Thanks again.

Here is me just showing off; http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2305229

[wepollock]

Also noticed that you can set the extruder speed in eprom using the menu. There is also a max speed as well that I think needs to be adjusted.