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General question about using aqua net hairspray on the glass plate to make prints stick better: Do you spray it on?

I've been using painter's tape, but now I'm trying hair spray right on the big round boro glass from seemecnc. Prints are sticking great, but I'm not sure I want to just spray the glass because stray particles will eventually get all over the printer. Do you spray a paper towel and wipe it on?

Don't use a paper towel - it will leave little fibers behind. Spray it on a crumpled up plastic grocery bag and then wipe it on the glass.

g.

makes sense, thanks!

I actually spray directly on the glass with it cold. Just like you would spray it on hair, about 8" away. Then I heat the plate up to 80°C and print. This leaves a prefect film. I can get quite a few prints before I have to touch up. And it's exactly that, a touch up sprayed on just the areas needing it.

If you are worried about the printer, cut a 10" hole in a heavy plastic garbage bag and place that around the plate to act as a shield. I used to do that but with the MAX the area is so open and the spray is easy enough to control that I've not had any overspray issues.

Interesting. I'm certain to achieve overspray because I want to get to the edges (I want to try Highcooley's Onyx Bed Leveler again since I loaded the Repetier firmware). So a mask of some sort will help me.

Good to know I can leave it on there though. I had to re-apply after my first print with it because my scraper tool took off that film with my print.

BTW, if you're printing with PLA, an even better solution is a 10:1 mix of Elmers White glue. (10 parts water, 1 part glue) I was told about this by a nice gent named "gauanu" in the #reprap IRC channel. I mixed some up in a 2oz "spritz" bottle I got from Rite-Aide and it works amazingly well.

g.

barnett, every time you print you'll see where the part was attached. Most of the time you'll also see that there is still a film in that area. If you see glass (or aluminum) simply spot spray that area. The film applied is very thin and will not affect the Z height even with multiple sprayings.

These hairsprays have suspended polymers on them - that's how they hold hair! It's this polymer film on the bed that gives grip to the 3D print.

The first time I sprayed my glass for the MAX I did use a sheet of notebook paper tucked under the build plate so I could spray up to the edge. If I ever have to spray out that far again I will likely do the same so as not to get the overspray.

Thanks again guys this is helpful. I wonder if that glue spray would help with nylon filament?

barnett wrote:Thanks again guys this is helpful. I wonder if that glue spray would help with nylon filament?

Yeah it works pretty well with Nylon on a cold bed.
The issue is that the prints warp as soon a they are detached.
I keep meaning to try heating the bed after the print has finished to see if it will "relax" the part.

Why not unclipping the glass and spray it some where else? Recalibration necessary?

You likely will not need to recalibrate simply by removing and replacing the glass. I never have had to on any of my printers. I don't remove the glass because it is not an issue for me to spray in place. It takes 5 seconds and I'm done!

Of course. I just mean that it's easier to remove it, than to build a special cover to protect the printer.

Agreed! Even simpler to just spray it and not worry about it. The secret is to take quick pulses of spray. You don't just hold the nozzle down and go to town! "Less is more" is the way to go.

so mist is enough or should it be wet? I don't know why everybody use so high temp for bed. for me 65C is enough and 222C for green ABS ordered from seemecnc

If you can see it on the bed, you have enough. If you are spraying enough to make the bed wet or puddle, that's too much.

i wonder if other sprays will work.. like starch. or something..?

I can vouch for ABS glue working with ABS on tape. Most of the time, I don't use the glue because even without it, it sticks so well I have trouble getting the tape off the parts.

In December, my very first prints ever weren't sticking to that stickralon plate that came with the phebe bed, I tried some other brand of hairspray because my CVS didn't have aqua net. It did not work.

Normal, unscented aqua net worked for me this morning on the seemecnc boro glass (no tape) at 67C (measured with thermocouple on glass).

I'll probably use a piece of cardboard or something so I can spray to the edge at least once. Then I'll just try to be gentle with the spray to touch up as needed.... and see how it goes.

aehM_Key wrote:Why not unclipping the glass and spray it some where else? Recalibration necessary?

You likely wouldn't have to recalibrate if the clips are in close to the same locations.
I just spray it in place where I know the print is going to be.

Polygonhell can you print that nylon on glass or are you using some other surface?

barnett wrote:Polygonhell can you print that nylon on glass or are you using some other surface?

I've used pretty much every surface suggested.
Hairspray on glass is OK.
Untreated poplar board works well.
I have a sheet of Garolite here which I'll try when I get bored enough to pull the Nylon out again.
I really want to like the material, it looks good, and short of the warping prints well, and I like the material properties, it opens up the possibility of printing linear guides for extrusions, but I just can't get a handle on the warping.
As I said, I can print it on glass with Harispray, it sticks and stays flat through the print when I remove it, it warps...
You can print things with it that stay flat if you don't use too many solid layers and very sparse infill but I was hoping for better.
As I said next time I'm going to try heating the finished part to hopefully relax it before removing it from the print surface.

thanks, I still haven't tried any of the little roll I got, but I will take your advice when I do try it.

Hm, tried with hairspray today - its barley sticking.

Do I need a special spray? Maybe special ingredients?

I went for the super mega extra extreme strong one

Many people swear by Aqua Net. I use it and Herbal Essence with great results. These both have polymer ingredients. That's what does the trick. Not sure about all types. Make sure your surface is clean, spray a very light coat using spritz, heat up and print.

I'm not sure, if I can get these types in Germany.
I did all of this.
It says "copolymer" and "methacrylate" on the label.
If I touch it with my hand, it does not stick at all.

Did you try to print? The spray will not feel sticky to your hand. It should leave a matte looking coating on the surface of your build plate. Make sure your Z layer height is good.