Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

This post is intended as a teaser and a bit of a goad to get me to fill out the information. Initially, I'm just posting a list of my upgrades, but I'll fill it out as time permits in the order that interest dictates. Some of the mods are based on available things (at Thingiverse), but others are designs that I have not uploaded yet. I will also fill out the post with pictures as time permits. Feel free to ask me about what interests you.

I have had my Rostock Max v3 for a bit more than a year now and I love it. I've had my issues, but I now feel like I have it dialed in and have grokked as much of the parameter space as one can in just a year as a hobbyist. It is my first printer, so it has been an adventure.

Without further ado, here is my upgrade list:

• Enclosure
  • Slim Enclosure (TAP Acrylic)
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1796438
  • Slim Fan Shrouds (needed to fit enclosure)
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058092
  Insulate Bed and Build Area
  • Insulate Bed
    Used foil backed insulation and foil tape to cover back of heated bed insulator.
  • Plug Vents
    All vents from the upper and lower electronics area were taped over to isolate the enclosed area from the electronics. Vents were then added to allow the power supply and RAMBO to cool with air from outside the enclosure.
    Included in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802367
  • Front Vent Plate
    Replaced the front plate on the base with a vented plate to provide cool air to the power supply area.
    Included in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802367
  • Top End Access Door with Fan
    Replaced the cover above the RAMBO with a ventilated plate that could accept the RAMBO cooling fan which draws outside air down into the bay. Due to heat issues with the heated enclosure, I redesigned this for an 80mm fan and now my electronics and stepper are super cool.
    Included in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802367
  Heated Enclosure
  While insulating and isolating the enclosure helped significantly, it was still difficult to maintain room temperature (or hotter, for PETG/ABS) when the ambient garage temperature was only in the 40s.
  • Heating Manifold
  • Hairdryer Adapter
  Print Bed Improvements
  • BuildTak FlexPlate System
    https://www.matterhackers.com/store/c/BuildTakFlexPlate
  • Low-Profile Bed Clips
    The stock bed clips are too thick for the FlexPlate mounting system. I through these together and printed them from PETG. They seem to be holding up.
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2801924
  HE280 Hotend Improvements
  • Hotend Whip Retainer and Cover
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2192079
  • Bowden Coupling
    Included in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058092
  • Bowden Zip Loops
  • Extended Hotend Wrench
    Included in https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2058092
  E3D Hot End
  • E3D Cooling Effector w/HE280 PCB
  PrometheusV2 Hot End
  https://www.distechautomation.com/produ ... metheus-v2
  • PrometheusV2 Cooling Effector w/HE280 PCB
  Prometheus System Dual Extrusion
  https://www.distechautomation.com/produ ... eus-system
  • ProStruder Mounting Plates
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751493
  • ProStruder Upgrades
    • Dual Bearing
    • Filament Guides
      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2552537
    • Locking Lever
      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751519
    • ProStruder Stepper Fan Mounts
      https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2751550
  RaspberryPi and Filament Runout Sensor
  • Installed RasperryPi Running OctoPrint
  • Filament Runout Sensor Box
  • Extended Spool Arms
  General Improvements
  • USB Port Plate
  • Build Area Thermometer
  • Now Slicing with Simplify3D

• Non-Rostock, General 3D Printing
  • Inkbird Thermal Controller Box
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2609388
  • Filament Dryer Food Dehydrator Conversion

I don't see the Duet and FSR in there.

I was just reading up on the HE280 probe converter so that the probe works on the Duet. That is one that i want to do, but I have build two effectors that incorporate the HE280 boards and love the auto-calibration (I use the plugin on OctoPrint).

So, what is FSR? I'm always looking for ways to pimp my printer.

EDIT: Force Sensitive Resistors - Aren't they another tool for bed leveling? So far the probe on the HE280 has been working great for me on three different effectors. What is the advantage of FSR?

Unrelated: I just got my heated enclosure going and did my first ABS print (225C nozzle, 90C bed, 40C enclosure) and had perfect bed adhesion to the BuildTak, no warping, and great layer adhesion. Now I need to reprint my heating manifold and effectors in ABS because PETG is still too heat sensitive.

FSRs are used under the heated bed, supporting it at 3 points. When the nozzle taps the glass, the FSRs & their controller board turn that into a switch closure that the controller can see as contact with the bed. That's how the FSR probing system works.

g.

Gene,

Are FSR's superior to the HE280 accelerometers?

Since the Octoprint Delta Cal Plugin, I've been getting excellent calibration on my Rostock. However, I do like the idea of the even more adaptable calibration with the Duet.

Cheers,
Tim

For our purposes, they're probably equivalent. The FSR is easier to use with the Duet though.

g.

I have had way better luck with calibration with the Duet and FSR than with the Rambo and accelerometers. Then again a more advanced calibration can be run on the duet. In Addition the Duet is so much quieter than the Rambo, if you are into that sort of thing, as well as a very nice web control and a easy way to use custom macros.

You're going to get better calibration on the Duet just by virtue of the more powerful CPU. That being said, the RAMBo can get pretty close if you use the delta calibration plugin for Octoprint.

I recently upgraded Orange Menace (a v1) with a DuetWifi. I've also got a v1 (Blue MAX) that's got a Duet Ethernet in it. The difference in stepper motor sound between the two was astonishing.

g.

Thanks. I have the Duet on my list of future upgrades.

Sound doesn't matter since my printer is in a detached garage. And, while the calibration really would have been a draw, like Gene said, the OctoPrint plugin works wonders. I can print anywhere on the bed and get a beautiful first layer.

Most important right now is getting my enclosure heating and electronics cooling all dialed in. After recently doing my first ABS print, it was so strong and heat resistant that I'm hooked.

I'm also working on the Prometheus System dual extrusion (single nozzle). Does the RAMBo have some problem with two extruder motors? That might get me to go with the Duet sooner...

-Tim

I have added the FlexPlate system and came up with this enclosure after using the enclosure in the OP so I didn't have to mess around with fan the shrouds anymore.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2525853 (shameless self-promotion)

I hadn't heard about the OctoPrint Delta Calibration plug-in, I'll have to try that out. I have had only nightmares printing on anything other than the bare glass plate (glue on the glass works fine).

Do you have any links to the low-profile bed clips and vented parts?

When can you post photos of your printer?

PengLord,

Your interest has spurred me to start posting. I'll be uploading to Thingiverse and here with images today. I started with a quick post at Thingiverse of my bed clips for the FlexPlate as you need those ASAP.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2801924

I have pics to post, but they will take a bit of time to process and upload.

I really like your enclosure. How did you bend the acrylic? It is nice that you have room for the stock fans.

Thanks for asking!
-Tim

PS. I updated my case enhancements and posted a thing... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2802367

Thanks for posting the models.

I'm using PETG so it's flexible enough to bend without issue. I picked it up at Alro Plastics for ~$50.

Here are some current pics of my printer. I was printing ABS with the enclosure heated to 40C when this picture was taken.

Cheers,
Tim

I am new to this forum, and posting in general. I want to enclose 3 printers using a simple and functional design. They are all Rostock Max V3. Can someone point me in the direction of a set of files that are available for the pieces I will need? I have Lexan and can source other required hardware.

Greatly appreciate any help I can get