Onyx Heated Bed installation guide!

[geneb]

http://www.geneb.org/rostock-max/onyx-h ... nstall.pdf

Enjoy!

g.

[aehM_Key]

Great as every time

I would recommend to solder the cables pointing to the center. They will fit easier trough the slot. Adding a chamfer to the slot will help also. (But is probably only necessary, if you use quite thick cables, like I did.)
Maybe you can add a hint, to put the onyx on a temperature-proof surface while soldering. It will get quite hot on the back side.
A hint that no wire or solder should reach the front side would be nice as well. (Otherwise the glass might not lay flat.)
I mounted the onyx with RTV to the melamine base plate and reduced warping measurable.
I also added some aluminium foil on the back and also on top if the table to reduce thermal dissipation. (-> I could heat the bed to 95°C instead only 80°C -> less energy consumption)
(I'll share some pictures soon.)

[jesse]

Here are the instructions for modifying the V1 Onyx to support the borosilicate plate

1. Buy 6 Flat Head #4-40 x3/4 screws.
2. Counter sink the holes on the PCB using a 19/64th drill bit. Drill a little bit at a time and keep checking until the screw head can fit slightly below the surface of the bed.

You can be a somewhat rough with the board but make sure you're drilling on a flat surface.

Remember there's a thermistor soldered on the back so don't crush it as you drill.

[img]http://i.imgur.com/4DyktZg.jpg[/img]
[img]http://i.imgur.com/NOF4XRP.jpg[/img]

The glass needs to over hang since the the small LED and black SMD component is in the way.

[dbarrans]

There's about 1/4" of space between the power supply and the top of the base. I was able to use a hemostat to hold the t-nut in place to thread a screw into it. If that works, there's no need to remove the power supply for this. For me at least, it was more trouble than this to get those plastic power supply screws threaded, so I wanted to avoid doing that again.

- dan

[jesse]

Balancing the t-nut on a thin ruler and prying downward also works.

There's about 1/4" of space between the power supply and the top of the base. I was able to use a hemostat to hold the t-nut in place to thread a screw into it. If that works, there's no need to remove the power supply for this. For me at least, it was more trouble than this to get those plastic power supply screws threaded, so I wanted to avoid doing that again.

- dan

[Flateric]

I would also have found it helpful and a bit quicker if some kind of idea were given about how long the wires might be. With say an inch or two of extra. Would save some time since as I have it now I will solder the wires to the bed, guess, install the bed, install the rambo, cut the wires after test feeding them, re-tin the tips and then secure them to the connector and finally plug into the rambo.

Where if I had the length stated, I could simply cut to length, tin both ends, attach and plug in.

This would be nice for ALL the wiring throughout the build in fact.

[mhackney]

I take my Onyx on and off a lot to test things like the Aluminum Heat Dissipator plates I manufacture. I finally got tired of struggling with poking the power connection wires around to make sure the Onyx sits flat and the wires are not strained. So, I simply cut the snowflake spacer to make the necessary clearance. I am going to talk to Steve & John about making this mod on the laser cut part in the kit, but for now you can do your own. Simply extend the line from the original cutout down. I've included Empirical (1-7/8") and metric (4.75cm) measurements on the photo. I used a band saw but a hacksaw or even drilling a series of 1/8" holes and knocking the piece out will work fine.

[img]http://mhackney.zenfolio.com/img/s8/v84 ... 0704-3.jpg[/img]

It works great and I don't have any undue strain on my wiring now.

[dbarrans]

Another option might be to make a new hole in the base just below the Onyx wire hookups. I may still do that next time I take things apart.

- dan

[JohnStack]

Where do the Hot End LEDs connect to on the board?

[mhackney]

I don't understand the question John. Do you mean where do the LEDs connect on the Onyx rather than hot end?n It is actually screened on the Onyx - at least the rev 1 version.

[nitewatchman]

Where do the Hot End LEDs connect to on the board?

John,

Are you asking where the LED leads connect on the Rambo Board?

If so, it would be to the same terminals as the Hot End resistors or heater. This way the LED will light when the Hot End is powered.

nitewatchman

[geneb]

The manual has been updated - I just finished uploading it. Section 5C covers the new Rev5 bed. I would have gotten it posted sooner, but my week started...rather poorly.

The hot end LED is fed right off the same terminal block that the hot end is...and guess what I forgot to include! *facepalm*

g.

[JohnStack]

Thanks Nitewatchman, Gene, Michael.


Make sense but wanted to make sure.

[bob64]

I have a rev 5 onyx. I'm having a problem installing the thermisistor - it doesn't remotely fit into the hole below the larger center hole. Should I try drilling it out? If so, what size bit do I use?

Edit: i might have also damaged both of the thermisistor(s) when attempting to fit them into the hole. :c Anyone know how to check if they're working?

[Eaglezsoar]

I have a rev 5 onyx. I'm having a problem installing the thermisistor - it doesn't remotely fit into the hole below the larger center hole. Should I try drilling it out? If so, what size bit do I use?

Edit: i might have also damaged both of the thermisistor(s) when attempting to fit them into the hole. :c Anyone know how to check if they're working?

To check a thermistor, use an ohm meter and measure between the leads. A thermistor used for the RMAX should read around 100K ohms at room temperature.
Try not to hold the leads with your fingers. I place the thermistor flat on a table and measure between it's leads.

[bob64]

Yay, the thermistors aren't broken. I had my multimeter set to the wrong range. Thanks.

[Kanthus]

Is there an update for Rev 7? The soldering points are different from Rev 6.

[geneb]

They're not THAT different. There's just two fewer wires to contend with. Ignore anything mentioning the hot end LED and wiring (green & white).

g.

[Kanthus]

so do I just not add the other resistor and the green and white wires?

[geneb]

Correct.

[Kanthus]

Thank you Sir. Much appreciated. Im a total noob with this stuff. =)