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Hi all,

I just finished upgrading my Rostock Max v2 to the autocalibration board and a E3Dv6. I soldered the heater cartridge and thermistor to the board and made all the connections as in the steps in the webpage.

After doublechecking everything, I turned on the printer and it worked. Temps getting read and all seemed ok. First did autocalibration. That went perfect. After that I turned on the temp for the nozzle and screen went blank.

After looking at the fuses, F3 seems to be blown. I just tried to exchange it for the F2 and then the screen comes back.

I checked for shorts, and I noticed that the when I check the plus and minus on the heater cartridge, my multimeter will make a constant beep, but when I check the ohms its says 5.3 (which is strange as it should be 3.6 i think) I also checked at the Rambo board and same thing.

Now I also noticed that all my black wires run into the + ports of the Rambo board. I found this confusing, but I checked the building manual for the V2 and there they also say to wire it up like that. Could that have anything to do with my problem ? Or is it more likely that the heater cartridge is not ok ?

Does the heater cartridge read 5.6 ohms when disconnected from the probe PCB?

g.

I have to desolder it to check that, but I just tried to just run the fan (parts fan) just to see if that would work and it also blows the fuse. Therefore I guess it is not related to the heater. Any idea's ?

I may have found the problem, but I need new fuses to be able to check. As I said in my opening post my wiring for heat 0 was inversed. That has never been a problem, but maybe now it is ? I further checked all 8 connections to the calibration board and they are good now.

Will report back in about a week when I get the fuses if this solved my problem.

Just wanted to let you guys know that the printer is working fine now. I rigged up another fuse just to test the cabling and it works perfectly now. Printed a first layer and then stopped the print as I think it is better just to wait for the proper fuses.

There shouldn't be any way to invert/reverse your heater wires (it's just a resistor, and they don't care). But don't overlook the third "conductor" in your heater cartridge, that being the case of the cartridge itself. If one lead is shorted internally to the case (which it's not supposed to be, so replace it if it is) then depending on how you've got it wired, you will either have a "hot" case (all of 12 volts...), or one that is grounded.

I suspect the beeping was because you had your meter set to continuity.