Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

So i need some help, ive been asking people on a few facebook groups and a buddy of mine and so far no such luck. I may just be doomed to never print again. So ill give a brief history. I bought a used Rostock Max v3 it was all stock and printed fine, no problems. But I was getting my feet wet and wanted more and better. So I upgraded to a Duet Wifi Board, FSR Kit with FSR Trick Laser plate and toped it off with a PEI sheet.

Now after i finished all this (with the help from my buddy) it was time to calibrate everything with the new setup, but since ive done this ive been just having problem after problem with Z height and printing either way above the bed or the nozzle is dragging on the bed causing back pressure and making the prints very ugly. I proceeded to check everything(maybe not everything but a lot) people were suggesting on checking; Towers leveled, belts tightened, tension on the effector, if the boden tube was to short, Carriages were not cracked or wiggling, same with the effector plate and everything connecting to it, measured everything 3 times to ensure values in config.g was correct, i also manually calibrated each bed probe point to get an average and changed the H value and i think a few others but ive done so many things i cant remember the rest. And from then to now my g32's deviation has dropped from 0.300's to 0.080's but im still running into the problem that my heatmap is showing large spikes and valleys that its still messing up with my prints.

Im unable to correct the problem. As for the prints, the quality is bad, almost no bed adhesion cause its either printing too far from the bed or squishing the filament as it extrudes to a bald state. The only thing i have not done yet which i think is a sort of last resort, is to remove the m3 adhesive that is holding the Pei sheet to the glass, as well as the m3 adhesive that is holding the onyx bed to the FSR Plate. And why remove it, is because as much as i tried to avoid bubbles, i know i saw some. I had lightly scored the bubbles with a razor to pop them, but ive been told that can be whats causing the bad deviation and bad print job because it cant read a correct value. So why to put it off, is cause i feel trying to remove the adhesive from the FSR Plate and the onyx bed will possibly destroy it ( i will try everything i can to avoid it ) but seeing as im still new to this, i doubt ill be successful. As for the PEI/Glass i feel confident ill be able to remove the adhesive from that seeing as at least the PEI is flexible where as the FSR Plate and Onyx are not. But if/when i get the Adhesive off, ive been suggested to try a test with just laying them all together and using the big paper clips to hold it together and do a g32/heat map and see if all of my problems disappear.

So after reading my "book" my question is any suggestions or solutions to my problem that i can try before i attempt to remove the adhesive from the onyx / plate? Or even any other suggestions for everything ive said that can help. Thank you for any help and advice you can give. Ive been screwing around with this for almost 2 weeks now and nothing. Ill post some pics of everything i think may help, the config/bed/config-override files as well as the settings i have in cura and anything else.

A couple of things, I have the Tricklaser FSR plate too, and I had to fab up supports to get it to "float" without any lateral movement since it doesn't come with any hardware to mount it. So, how do you have it mounted? And do your FSRs respond reasonably close to each other using the same amount of force? If one is "sticking" then that edge will be lower.

And I've found that I have to add .25mm to the Z baby stepping to get the height correct after a grid cal.

Try a using the same file with a different slicer. Reach out to others here for their slicer settings and try those. My (recent) experience with Cura has been horrible. But that's on me, I've got something messed up. MatterControl works fine however.

Do us a favor and post a picture of what it's doing to you.

bad bed adhesion and stringing. As for how sensitive one feels like it triggers alot easier then the other 2, but not by much. ive also got the FSR's and plate setup this way. Silicone Pad> FSR Sensor > Silicone Pad >Trick Laser plate > Onyx Bed > Glass Bed > m3 adhesive > Pei Sheet. Ive also got 6 binder clips holding the glass to the onyx bed. Even raising the z baby stepping im getting varying degrees of success. Ive just replaced my fsr plate and onyx bed and trying to test out something right now. Here are some pics of what i was getting prior. I will update with more once i get everything back to normal (rewiring the onyx bed and such)

The important thing with the FSRs is that they trigger with about the same amount of force. You can tell if one of your FSRs is "slow triggering" if you observe that either the bed deflects more on that FSR, or that it takes longer for the FSR to trigger after it touches the bed. Do your best to fix this.

Your print pattern shows that at the very least your Horizontal Radius is too high. Fortunately the Duet makes this simple to correct. Run the "Auto Delta Calibration" and then enter the commands "M665" and "M666". Now open your Config.g and put these values in where your "M665" and "M666" lines are. Save the file, and upload it. This should get you pretty close.

Still running into the same problems even with new fsr plate and onyx. It just seems to be high on one side then low on the other side of the print. Ive got some weights ill try to dial it in more as for how much force is required to set off each trigger. In hopes i can give better information. I will also try the m665/m666 lines and post the outcome.

did m665 /m666 and updated the config.g file and tried another print. It was pressing down on the bed to the point of setting off all of the fsrs. i had z baby step it up 2mm and it was still 1/3 of the print hitting the bed and the other 2/3 was high enough off the bed so as to cause the stringing effect, where each line was not touching one another.

I had the same problem. What I do (be it the correct way or not...), is to set my baby steps to .25mm. That's correct for me, yours will certainly be different.

Run yours without filament in the extruder and get it to look just about right, and then add filament.

Oh, and you have tried setting up z height haven't you?

And another thing that I've noticed with FSRs using the JohnSL FSR controller is that it does its zeroing at powerup. This means that if you remove parts, or just jostle the bed, you might (will, eventually) end up with false triggers or requiring more force than should be necessary.

I've reseated my FSRs and now they seems to be triggering about the same. We'll see...

ill have to try that tomorrow for the baby steps. and yes ive setup the z height for it, but it seems to not change anything. ive also ordered new fsr triggers and silicone pads hoping that maybe ive made it false trigger because ive removed 1 set of pads and the triggers with a razor (carefully) and moved them to hopefully better position them.

Tried doing the z stepping to some value, but doing it at .10 increments i couldnt find any decent value, it would just be normal height off the bed on the low spots then be very high on the rest and would basically just drip to the bed and not adhere and just drag the filament around till it was close enough to the bed to come in contact with it, then just repeat.

Things are worse after trying to adjust my FSRs, which makes me wonder how reliable this system is going to be long-term. I'll probably try new FSRs too, but I can see how one corner sticking will end up making things worse than not calibrating at all.

I've got three Duet-equipped v1s that use FSRs and they all work flawlessly. All three use mhackney's FSR holder.

Here's how I installed them...

First I made sure that the "puck" part that gets fixed to the underside of the heated bed platform was as perfect a fit for the FSR holder as I could make it. Little if no lateral movement.

Then I installed the three pucks on the bed and used them to align the FSR mounts where I wanted them. I then used superglue to fix the FSR mount in place and then I lifted the bed off when the glue was dry, then used screws to permanently hold the FSR mounts in place.
This has resulted in a perfectly aligned system that doesn't bind.

Maybe binding is causing your problems?

g.

I had removed the FSR triggers with a razor and reapplied them a different way, then had to do it a second time after that. So some sort of binding is probable, and could also be not triggering right cause of all the bunched up glue under the trigger. Ill try having a buddy print out the FSR holder and get a new set of FSR's and try it that way. i would of done it that way originally but i was told that using the FSR holder causes alot of binding problems. can you do a picture and show me how yours is setup? that way i can make sure when i get the new FSR's i can do it right.

I had looked for FSR mounts but didn't come up with anything, so I used the three wedges that came with the plate. And I found what was wrong with my "problem child" sensor, I had it mounted too far to one side and not on the center. It might not fix it entirely, but at the very least it's no longer "skidding" the hotend across the plate.

I'll print up the FSR mounts tonight and use the new FSRs that I have coming with them.

Update: I just ran the grid comp, and things look pretty much spot-on! Yeah!

And it occurred to me that there is no reason for the wedges to be installed during the grid comp, so I removed them for the grid comp (which removes any chance of binding).

Not too bad...

That looks much better than mine. I will try the mounts once my buddy is able to print them for me, and use new fsr's i know my silicone pads are not exact center of the fsr, just slightly off to one side or another on all 3, so that could be whats causing most of my problems. will hopefully try it tomorrow.

Oh yeah, this is what it looked like before:

rootboy, here's the mounts I used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1335095

g.

Thanks Gene!

Did those mounts, as well as reapplied my PEI sheet to my glass bed and used some 800 grit sandpaper to lightly sand the surface and im finally getting a good normal deviation. Also had some random line in my config that someone else on facebook suggested to remove and fixed my odd printing quality. Just some slight adjustments in cura and im perfect again! finally! Thanks guys for the help.