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Anyone have a profile they'd share for Simplify3D for stock Rostock MAX v3.2?

The attached is for the Artemis, but it should work fine on the 3.2. Jim Carter built it. You'll need to change the extension from "txt" to "fff".

g.

Thanks geneb!

You're welcome!

g.

Been working on this Rostock Max v3.2 FFF for Simplify3D and I am pretty sure its just about there. I took a mix of the standard Simplify3D profile for the RMAXv3, the proposed settings for Cura from SeeMeCNC and the settings for the Artemis. It prints very nicely on my freshly upgraded v3.2. You might need to tweak the temps for your own liking.

I also included a bonus! Messing around I figured out how to add the Rostock base under the build plane. The .stl and where to put it are included in the zip file. Move the file into place before you import the FFF.

Example image: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gwIcXZ ... sp=sharing

Here are the files:

I have a new version of my S3D FFF for the v3.2...

Spent most of the day tweaking the settings until I virtually eliminated my stringing. Still dialing everything in, but thought I would share my work in process.

Thanks for posting jcarlin, I'm going to give your config a shot tomorrow.

jcarlin wrote:I have a new version of my S3D FFF for the v3.2...

SeeMeCNC Rostock Max v3.2 version 2.fff.zip

Just curious, why is the build area so small in this setup?

Used jcarlin's profile for the first time for real tonight and it worked great. Made a couple changes though: Changed build volume to proper 265x265x395. I also used Magigoo so I set the initial layer height and width to 100% because it was squishing too much and causing the extruder to click from the back pressure. Thinking about changing the nozzle size to 0.4 next print.

I guess what I'm finding the best with Simplify3D is that Cura is super inefficient with travels and acts like it has ADD(stops in the middle of part of the infill and jumps somewhere else then comes back) so it prints way, way slower. Tonight's print, for example, took around 2 hours and 18 minutes for the estimate and I think it ended up being about that long(maybe a bit longer). Cura's estimate for the same model with equivalent settings: 3 hours, 55 minutes and that's probably accurate too from my experience.

Cura definitely has the better UI though. Everything is just kind of a hassle in S3D to tweak while Cura has them organized pretty well with descriptions of what every option does and affects. I much prefer Cura's gizmos for model orientation/translation/scale than S3D's hand entries.

I used the build dimensions from the original S3D profile for the Rostock Max. I've taken your setting and will try them, thanks!

With updating the dimensions to 265x265x395, I assume that you are using the default build plate? Has anyone tried printing on the "edge" of the print area in S3D? Also, do I need to worry about origin offset, or leave that defaulted at 98.5 for X and Y?

Thanks for sharing! Mine were pretty similar with PETG, but I went the coasting/wipe route for trying to get rid of blobs and zits and haven't been making much progress on that front. I'll see if I can work up a similar profile for PETG and Nylon users.

Horvaticus wrote:Also, do I need to worry about origin offset, or leave that defaulted at 98.5 for X and Y?

Sorry I didn't mention it but yeah, the origin offset has to change or it will be off center. I changed it to half the new diameter or 132.5mm.

Thanks for sharing! Mine were pretty similar with PETG, but I went the coasting/wipe route for trying to get rid of blobs and zits and haven't been making much progress on that front. I'll see if I can work up a similar profile for PETG and Nylon users.

I'm using this profile to print Amazon and Hatchbox PETG with extruder at 235, bed at 70, cooling fan 100% after first layer and Magigoo or painter's tape. I don't tend to setup materials in slicers, I just change the temps and fan settings manually for whatever I'm using and leave everything else the same.

Magigoo seems great for smaller things but I had the corners lift on an object that nearly filled the bed. It eventually got too distorted and the print head ran into the object at the end of a large print. Thankfully it was just an iPad angler for my exercise bike, so it didn't matter if it was missing a couple mm at the top.