Hello all,
I have been having issues with my hot end printing fine, getting stringy and then stop extruding after 15 mins to 1.5 hours into the print. A couple weeks ago my Bowden tube "burst" just below the EZ Struder. I'm thinking I over-retracted the filament enough to make the filament wear the inside of the tube, yada-yada... I replaced it with a 4mm tube I had under my desk from Amazon which I ordered for my old direct feed printer. After many re-seatings, cleaning the EZ Struder from ground up pla, I realized the filament had a bit of friction in the tube, so... I think it's the bowden tube - and I already ordered one from SeeMeCNC(SMC). For this (bad) one, I generally ran the new one by the old one still in the 'Umbilical' from the top assembly and cut it. Then trashed the old one.
If you are still reading after all that - Does anyone know how long should the bowden tube be for a Rostock Max v3 (I'm still waiting for a response from SMC Tech. support)? I'm getting the tube this AM and plan to fix soon after... Thanks in advance!
Rostock Max v3 Bowden tube length
Rostock Max v3 Bowden tube length
Sincerely,
Dale Storer
Rostock Max v3
Dale Storer
Rostock Max v3
Re: Rostock Max v3 Bowden tube length
I've got no idea as to the "official" length, but when I replaced mine, I simply installed the hotend side and then hand moved my hotend in the widest possible circle while holding the loose end next to my extruder. I added a few inches and made my cut there.
What you don't want to have is the length too short to where the platform has to fight the tube to get to the far reaches of your glass. Conversely, you don't need any extra length either.
Just remember the old adage "I cut it twice, and it's still too short".
What you don't want to have is the length too short to where the platform has to fight the tube to get to the far reaches of your glass. Conversely, you don't need any extra length either.
Just remember the old adage "I cut it twice, and it's still too short".