Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hello everyone!

I just received my Max kit today and got the base together. I noticed on mine that the "support" and "electronic" doors seem to have their labels switched. The electronic door didn't have any holes and the support door had several cutouts and labels. No big deal - I just switched them.

My kit also didn't have the wrap-around cover for the bottom. I emailed support a few minutes ago, and I'm sure they'll send me one.


I haven't checked the base with a straight edge yet, but I didn't notice anything bad. I will check it tomorrow.


I can't seem to get the RoSoft software to download. It keeps kicking out about alf way through. If anyone has it anywhere else, I would GREATLY appreciate it. I'm using the videos on YouTube at the moment as a guide.

Anyway, I just want to thank you all in advance for all the help I'm SURE I'll need. I'm sure this will be a great learning experience, but seeing all the parts still left in the box is a little intimidating. I'm sure it will be a challenge to get it all together and working, but I'm looking forward to the day the first print lands on the bed.

Buck_weat

P.S. - The software FINALLY downloaded, so I have that now..

Buck_weat

both doors are interchangeble, but if you have an lcd you'll want that door between the x and y towers. laser cutting will have a little angle in the cuts but shouldn't be much. what you should check for is the alignment of the parts make sure the dividers are all the same height. check the top bottom circular plates for alignment also.

Hello everyone,

Does anyone know where I can purchase the connectors that go on the stepper motors? I screwed up a couple of the ones that came with the kit. I will look at JameCo, but I don't know the name of the connector.

Apparently, forcing the pins into the connector with needle-nose isn't the best idea.


Buck_weat

buck_weat wrote:Hello everyone,

Does anyone know where I can purchase the connectors that go on the stepper motors? I screwed up a couple of the ones that came with the kit. I will look at JameCo, but I don't know the name of the connector.

Apparently, forcing the pins into the connector with needle-nose isn't the best idea.


Buck_weat

Here are the links you need for the connectors and pins

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... Dr7T8xxg==

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... uX%2foQ%3d

Eaglezsoar wrote:

buck_weat wrote:Hello everyone,

Does anyone know where I can purchase the connectors that go on the stepper motors? I screwed up a couple of the ones that came with the kit. I will look at JameCo, but I don't know the name of the connector.

Apparently, forcing the pins into the connector with needle-nose isn't the best idea.


Buck_weat

Here are the links you need for the connectors and pins

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... Dr7T8xxg==

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Mol ... uX%2foQ%3d

Thank you! I will get some ordered..

Ultimachine - the maker of the RAMBo - also carries them: https://ultimachine.com/content/254mm-1 ... kit-5-pack

Does anyone have a picture of the LCD adapter board that has been assembled correctly? I put mine together, but I soldered all of the connectors on the same side. Now that i know what it is supposed to do, I think this was a bad idea..

Thanks in advance !

Have a GREAT DAY !!

Buck_weat

buck_weat wrote:Does anyone have a picture of the LCD adapter board that has been assembled correctly? I put mine together, but I soldered all of the connectors on the same side. Now that i know what it is supposed to do, I think this was a bad idea..

Thanks in advance !

Have a GREAT DAY !!

Buck_weat

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... t=30#p7033

note: be a good idea to read over some build logs and recent posts for changes so you dont kick yourself in the head.

cambo3d wrote:

buck_weat wrote:Does anyone have a picture of the LCD adapter board that has been assembled correctly? I put mine together, but I soldered all of the connectors on the same side. Now that i know what it is supposed to do, I think this was a bad idea..

Thanks in advance !

Have a GREAT DAY !!

Buck_weat

http://forum.seemecnc.com/viewtopic.php ... t=30#p7033

note: be a good idea to read over some build logs and recent posts for changes so you dont kick yourself in the head.

Thank you, Cambo3D ! That helped agreat deal!

I now have the board together and it seems to be working fine, although I have not loaded any drivers or software for the LCD yet. It DOES light up, though.

I am now at the calibration stage. All of my axes are moving up and down as they should. They go home with a G28 G-Code. I did have to change the Z_HOME_POS in the configuration.h file up to 270 to get the hotend close enough to the bed to touch the paper.

My issue now is - with these settings, when my hotend is touching the paper on the bed, the Z is at 4.7mm. So, in the next calibration step when I put the hotend about 5mm from the bed to measure, I have to use "R1 Z9.7 F1200" instead of "R1 Z5 F1200" to get the hotend down to that level.

Is there a way to set this Z4.7 to zero? I don't want to have to remember to add 4.7 to the Z all of the time.

Things are starting to get exciting now! LOL Hopefully I will be melting plastic pretty soon!

Thanks for all of your help!


Buck_weat

I have another question about the software. When I load the configuration.h file into the Arduino IDE, after I save it, I cannot load it back again into the IDE. I have to unzip a new one and then load it into the IDE.

For example:

I load the configuration.h file into the IDE..

I make changes to the file..

I save the file..

I upload the file to the RAMBO..

Then if I need to make another change, if I try to load the file I just saved it gives an error..

So I then delete those files and unzip a new set and I have to make ALL of the changes again.

Does anyone know how I can load the saved file so I just need to make one change?

If I DON"T save the file, I can reload it, but I still have to make all of the changes..


This isn't a big deal, just an annoyance. I'm sure I am doing something wrong in the process.

Again, thanks for all of your help.


Buck_weat

buck_weat wrote:I am now at the calibration stage. All of my axes are moving up and down as they should. They go home with a G28 G-Code. I did have to change the Z_HOME_POS in the configuration.h file up to 270 to get the hotend close enough to the bed to touch the paper.

My issue now is - with these settings, when my hotend is touching the paper on the bed, the Z is at 4.7mm. So, in the next calibration step when I put the hotend about 5mm from the bed to measure, I have to use "R1 Z9.7 F1200" instead of "R1 Z5 F1200" to get the hotend down to that level.

Is there a way to set this Z4.7 to zero? I don't want to have to remember to add 4.7 to the Z all of the time.

Things are starting to get exciting now! LOL Hopefully I will be melting plastic pretty soon!

Thanks for all of your help!


Buck_weat

I think I may have figured this part out...

If I change the Z_HOME_POS in the configuration.h from 370 to 365.3, that should put my Z at zero, right?

I will experiment with it when I get home...


Buck_weat

To do that, you need to make the home position farther away from the bed. If you turn the screw that touches the limit switch clockwise, the screw will go down and in-turn cause the Z value when the hotend is touching the paper to get lower. And likewise, turning the screw counter-clockwise will make the Z value higher at the touching point.

When you are touching the hotend to the paper, pick a x,y location that is close to each axis and only adjust the screw on that axis. Repeat that for each axis and then check the middle position's Z value.

Hello All,

Ok, I think I have things set up ok. All of the mechanicals seem to be working as they should. I think my problem now is probably user error.

For my curent printing surface, I am using 3/16" glass. (I have the boro plate on order) But I just can't seem go get the plastic to stick very well when it prints. I have tried just the glass, hair spray, ABS Juice, blue painter's tape, and even printer paper.


I have had a couple of things do kind of ok, but not lately. When the plastic leaves the nozzle, it just kind of balls up and slides on the glass at first. Then when it does lay on the glass, it leaves a little "tail" sticking up in the air and when the nozzle comes back around it hits the sticking-up part and pulls the rest off of the glass. If I am quick with a razor blade I can cut the tail off before the nozzle returns, but most of the time it comes loose from the glass when I do this also.

I used the paper method to set the Z-axis height, so I think that is ok.

I have tried a range of temperatures for both the nozzle and bed.


For PLA, the first thing I printed (the hollow cube) was doing ok, but about 1/4 of the way through, the flow of plastic stopped. The top of the nozzle had gotten stopped-up with melted plastic. I think The temp got too high. I think I was printing at about 180 and the heated bed at 70 or 80.

For ABS, I have used a nozzle temp between 190 and 240. and bed temps from 80 to 110.

I guess I need a beginner's guide to tell me what settings are used for the different types of plastic, and to what temps the bed should be set.

I have tried searching the forums here, but most of the time when I use the search feature, it says I have used too common words. I have not figured this out yet, either.

But anyway, Thank you all for your time. I know this has been long and rambling. I GREATLY appreciate that you have taken the time to read this. With your help, I know I will get this figured out.

Have a GREAT DAY !!

Buck_weat

The PLA problem is caused by heat creep. What is happening is that the heat from the hot-end is creeping up the barrel of the assembly and causing the PLA in the PTFE tube to swell and jam. You need to put a fan (a 25mm fan fits perfectly!) on the PEEK section of the hot end. To get PLA to stick to glass, I use a 10:1 mix of water to Elmers White Glue and I spray it on using a little "spritz" bottle I got from my local RiteAid. It works very well.

g.

buck_weat wrote:I have another question about the software. When I load the configuration.h file into the Arduino IDE, after I save it, I cannot load it back again into the IDE. I have to unzip a new one and then load it into the IDE.

For example:

I load the configuration.h file into the IDE..

I make changes to the file..

I save the file..

I upload the file to the RAMBO..

Then if I need to make another change, if I try to load the file I just saved it gives an error..

So I then delete those files and unzip a new set and I have to make ALL of the changes again.

Does anyone know how I can load the saved file so I just need to make one change?

If I DON"T save the file, I can reload it, but I still have to make all of the changes..


This isn't a big deal, just an annoyance. I'm sure I am doing something wrong in the process.

Again, thanks for all of your help.


Buck_weat

Have you received a solution to this? If so could you post the solution so that others with this problem can benefit?

I have tried searching the forums here, but most of the time when I use the search feature, it says I have used too common words. I have not figured this out yet, either.

Use a google search. Go to google and put in the following: site:forum.seemecnc.com buckwheat

The above will search the forum for the word buckwheat, obviously you can put in any text and google will search for it. Works great!

You have to load the PDE (or INO, depending on which version of the IDE you're using) file, not just the configuration.h file.

Also, "gives an error" is pretty useless from a diagnostic standpoint. It's like taking your car to the mechanic, pointing to it and saying, "It's broke" and then expecting him to fix it based on that description.

g.

Thanks geneb. That's what I needed to know. I also was struggling with that one.
I also wanted to thank you for hanging in there even though you at times were being
crucified by some of the users. I appreciate the manual you created and appreciate
the fact that you try your best to keep it updated. It takes a strong person to stand
against the wind and maintain your balance. A job well done!

geneb wrote:You have to load the PDE (or INO, depending on which version of the IDE you're using) file, not just the configuration.h file.

Also, "gives an error" is pretty useless from a diagnostic standpoint. It's like taking your car to the mechanic, pointing to it and saying, "It's broke" and then expecting him to fix it based on that description.

g.

If you are using the newer version that requires that you save in the new format, you can disable that in the preferences. Then it will save just liek the old versions.

"If you are using the newer version that requires that you save in the new format, you can disable that in the preferences. Then it will save just liek the old versions."

Foshon, I don't understand a word of that statement, are you talking about firmware? Firmware like repetier has preferences? You have me completely lost now.
Maybe you could rewrite what you meant so us dufuses can understand it. Take it easy on me, I only have 3 working brain synapses.

He's referring to a setting in the Arduino IDE. I wouldn't worry about it at this point. Just know that v0023 is going to look for and read/write a "main" file ending in PDE. The newer releases of the IDE look for INO _or_ PDE, but will _write_ INO unless told otherwise. From a user standpoint, don't worry about it.

Just for performance reasons alone, I'd suggest that people stay away from the Marlin firmware. The Repetier firmware has much smoother moves - it's actually noticeably quieter than the Marlin firmware.

g.

geneb wrote:He's referring to a setting in the Arduino IDE. I wouldn't worry about it at this point. Just know that v0023 is going to look for and read/write a "main" file ending in PDE. The newer releases of the IDE look for INO _or_ PDE, but will _write_ INO unless told otherwise. From a user standpoint, don't worry about it.

Just for performance reasons alone, I'd suggest that people stay away from the Marlin firmware. The Repetier firmware has much smoother moves - it's actually noticeably quieter than the Marlin firmware.

g.

If I use the repetier software and turn off the eprom then make a change to configuration.H then I would need to write these changes to the firmware. If I then make another change to the configuration.H the changes I made
previously will still be there, will they not? After making the changes this way and everything is working great, I could then turn on the eprom and write everything to the eprom. Is this a sensible way to do it or is it more sensible
do turn on the eprom initially and when everything is working properly write the contents of eprom to the firmware? This stuff is dang complicated.

Eaglezsoar wrote:

geneb wrote:He's referring to a setting in the Arduino IDE. I wouldn't worry about it at this point. Just know that v0023 is going to look for and read/write a "main" file ending in PDE. The newer releases of the IDE look for INO _or_ PDE, but will _write_ INO unless told otherwise. From a user standpoint, don't worry about it.

Just for performance reasons alone, I'd suggest that people stay away from the Marlin firmware. The Repetier firmware has much smoother moves - it's actually noticeably quieter than the Marlin firmware.

g.

If I use the repetier software and turn off the eprom then make a change to configuration.H then I would need to write these changes to the firmware. If I then make another change to the configuration.H the changes I made
previously will still be there, will they not? After making the changes this way and everything is working great, I could then turn on the eprom and write everything to the eprom. Is this a sensible way to do it or is it more sensible
do turn on the eprom initially and when everything is working properly write the contents of eprom to the firmware? This stuff is dang complicated.

I agree, it IS cpmplicated! But I'm sure we can figure it out..

Geneb - Thanks! I will try the glue and water methed. I ordered the 25mm fan, so I hope that will help with the "creep".

So if I load the repetier.ino file that all the other files load as well - That will help a LOT!

Thank you all for your help!!

Have a GREAT DAY !!

Buck_weat