Welcome to the SeeMeCNC Community

Hi all, I just received my Rostok Max kit and will be starting assembly over the next few days. I noticed in some other's build pictures what looks to be a "wrapper" of sort, which I assume is to cover the lower section and hide the base? I didn't find one in my kit so is that part discontinued? Do I even need one?

Also, I 've read about some people adding a glass or metal build plate that sits atop the Onyx heated base - I'll assume that some sort of build plate is required? Any ideas on the best place to source one from? I don't have the capability of fabricating one myself.

Ok, last question (for now! ) - Where do I find the control software for the printer? Is it in the software bundle that I can download from the SeeMeCNC site? Should I use the Windows version, or does the OSX version have the same capabilities? (Ok, I guess that was two additional questions )

Thanks!

Yes, it is a roll of flexible plastic for a base cover. I've not seen anyone actually install it! For one thing, it gets in the way of the LCD and electronics and may hamper air flow for cooling the electronics. Maybe they stopped sending them since no one uses them.

A build surface on the Onyx is absolutely required. The Onyx is not flat enough and it warps as it heats up. SeeMeCNC sells a borosilicate glass plate the proper size.

Yes, of you are on Windows that is a good place to start. I use OSX and they will be releasing a bundle for it soon. It has the same capabilities.

I think they discontinued the wrapper because most people like the "open look". They are not necessary.
The glass plate is available from Seemecnc under build surfaces, it's called 300mm round boroscilicate build plate and the cost is $32 + shipping.
The metal plate was available from a user on here named Mhackney but at this time he is not producing any more, a nice to have but not that necessary. I do recommend the glass plate, it would sit on the
Onyx heat bed and secured with the large paper clips, you should be able to find some pictures of the clips by going through some of the build logs.
I don't know a thing about OSX but the software most people use is Repetier and I recommend that you read the Repetier subforum under Rostock Max, Repetier for Rostock.

Carl

Thanks for the info, both of you!

id recommend the boroglass, the aluminum works good for even heat distribution but fails at keeping a level surface during heating and cooling cycles. boro stays flat no matter what the temperature is. downside it doesn't distribute the heat evenly. some people use the aluminum, with the boro on top. that seems to work for some, but my aluminum was warping bad so i left it out. I could literally place my boro on top, and spin it, that's how bad the warping was. so far i'm happy with just the boroglass for now. I've been experimenting with better more precise aluminum called mic6. its ground flat to +/-.005. and from what I'm reading stays fairly flat in the temperature ranges we need for printing.

I actually took a piece of aluminum foil and cut it to the shape of the boro glass... Then I used kapton tape to secure the foil to the glass... Placed it so the foil is between the glass and onyx (onyx is taped up, too) and installed the clips... Seems to be spreading the heat from the onyx out better than just the glass alone!

easybeans wrote:I actually took a piece of aluminum foil and cut it to the shape of the boro glass... Then I used kapton tape to secure the foil to the glass... Placed it so the foil is between the glass and onyx (onyx is taped up, too) and installed the clips... Seems to be spreading the heat from the onyx out better than just the glass alone!

Now that's a good idea! I assume shiny side up?

As far as that debate... According to Reynolds the shiny and dull sides are a result of the manufacturing process. It doesn't matter what side up

may try this myself, did you actually measure the temperature differences?

edit: after reading this i did a test of my own i wasn't to impressed. photo shown below with my thermocouple temperature meter . measuring the difference between inside and outside of the top boroglass.
i'm still getting a 10 -12 degree difference. at a bed temp of 85 degrees.

I did similar tests last year (on my H-1) with:

• heavy aluminum foil: no measurable difference in heat dissipation
• .032" aluminum: marginal difference but still had significant high and low temp regions
• .0625" aluminum: dissipates the heat nicely but tends to cup when heated and is too stiff to hold in place with glass - I broke two 1/8" glass plates testing this.

As for dull vs shiny side of foil: the shiny side reflects heat significantly better. We make reflector ovens to bake on campfires (Boy Scouts) and there is a significant difference in temperature in the oven depending on whether the shiny side is out or not.